My 9" swap plans
03-02-2009, 12:24 PM
#1
My 9" swap plans After two days of figuring out of how to get a 9" under my car I just finished ordering the pieces. I weighed everything with what I have and what I felt like dealing with and was trying to go as low budget as possible getting into one. I will post up pics as it goes together but here is what I finalized on and the costs:
Rear housing and axle package from Midwest with long torque arm, relocation and 31 spline axles set up for 4-channel ABS. Housing is bare uncoated (will POR) for $1650 shipped. It is the only housing that doesn't hit, has all brake clips and also laser cut 4-hole relocation brackets already welded on. My next choice would have been the Quick Performance piece but you don't get any of that and the relocation brackets are $80.00 alone.
Third member was a fairly local piece from TJ in PA. That way I ever need anything or to send it back, etc... it's close and he is great to deal with. I went with a WAR nodular center, Daytona support, 3.70 Motive gears, Trac-Loc 31 spline clutch type 1/2 billet posi (6 mos. warranty) and 4.5" 1330 yoke for $875
I will be selling my UMI torque arm and relocation bracket since I won't need them for $400 and the 10 bolt for $300.
Math works out to $2525-$700 = $1825
Not bad and should go to 500 HP no problems
Rear housing and axle package from Midwest with long torque arm, relocation and 31 spline axles set up for 4-channel ABS. Housing is bare uncoated (will POR) for $1650 shipped. It is the only housing that doesn't hit, has all brake clips and also laser cut 4-hole relocation brackets already welded on. My next choice would have been the Quick Performance piece but you don't get any of that and the relocation brackets are $80.00 alone.
Third member was a fairly local piece from TJ in PA. That way I ever need anything or to send it back, etc... it's close and he is great to deal with. I went with a WAR nodular center, Daytona support, 3.70 Motive gears, Trac-Loc 31 spline clutch type 1/2 billet posi (6 mos. warranty) and 4.5" 1330 yoke for $875
I will be selling my UMI torque arm and relocation bracket since I won't need them for $400 and the 10 bolt for $300.
Math works out to $2525-$700 = $1825
Not bad and should go to 500 HP no problems
03-02-2009, 01:49 PM
#2
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After two days of figuring out of how to get a 9" under my car I just finished ordering the pieces. I weighed everything with what I have and what I felt like dealing with and was trying to go as low budget as possible getting into one. I will post up pics as it goes together but here is what I finalized on and the costs:
Rear housing and axle package from Midwest with long torque arm, relocation and 31 spline axles set up for 4-channel ABS. Housing is bare uncoated (will POR) for $1650 shipped. It is the only housing that doesn't hit, has all brake clips and also laser cut 4-hole relocation brackets already welded on. My next choice would have been the Quick Performance piece but you don't get any of that and the relocation brackets are $80.00 alone.
Third member was a fairly local piece from TJ in PA. That way I ever need anything or to send it back, etc... it's close and he is great to deal with. I went with a WAR nodular center, Daytona support, 3.70 Motive gears, Trac-Loc 31 spline clutch type 1/2 billet posi (6 mos. warranty) and 4.5" 1330 yoke for $875
I will be selling my UMI torque arm and relocation bracket since I won't need them for $400 and the 10 bolt for $300.
Math works out to $2525-$700 = $1825
Not bad and should go to 500 HP no problems
Rear housing and axle package from Midwest with long torque arm, relocation and 31 spline axles set up for 4-channel ABS. Housing is bare uncoated (will POR) for $1650 shipped. It is the only housing that doesn't hit, has all brake clips and also laser cut 4-hole relocation brackets already welded on. My next choice would have been the Quick Performance piece but you don't get any of that and the relocation brackets are $80.00 alone.
Third member was a fairly local piece from TJ in PA. That way I ever need anything or to send it back, etc... it's close and he is great to deal with. I went with a WAR nodular center, Daytona support, 3.70 Motive gears, Trac-Loc 31 spline clutch type 1/2 billet posi (6 mos. warranty) and 4.5" 1330 yoke for $875
I will be selling my UMI torque arm and relocation bracket since I won't need them for $400 and the 10 bolt for $300.
Math works out to $2525-$700 = $1825
Not bad and should go to 500 HP no problems
WAR case is weak and will NOT hold that power level you are hoping to achieve. Also, sounds like you are getting a used Ford Trac-lok due to only 6 month warranty. It does not sound like such a good dealif this is what you are getting.
Jeff
03-02-2009, 08:34 PM
#3
WAR case is weak? Are we both talking the Nodular iron piece here? Do you have info to share on it? Post up if you have something. The Trac-Loc is rebuilt yes with a billet half (the half that breaks). What kind of warranty do you offer in a racing application on the pieces?
03-02-2009, 09:20 PM
#5
I don't know if you build them or just sell parts but where I got mine that is all the guy does is 9" builds. He is an E-Bay guy with 100% feedback doing it for 30 years. But I forwarded your info to him and got a good response:
first they are talking of a stock ford war case and second the stock war is stronger than the standard case but not as strong as the nodular . but that is all irrelitve since yours is a new after market case with the war designe of the extra ribs and the better heavy steel . your unit already shipped and it is very strong and i am sure you will be very satified when you see it .Thanks T.J.
first they are talking of a stock ford war case and second the stock war is stronger than the standard case but not as strong as the nodular . but that is all irrelitve since yours is a new after market case with the war designe of the extra ribs and the better heavy steel . your unit already shipped and it is very strong and i am sure you will be very satified when you see it .Thanks T.J.
03-02-2009, 10:03 PM
#6
About the posi. Now I couldn't find warranty stuff on your site about any of the posi units or lockers. What do they carry?
About mine:
IF YOU ARE NOT SATIFIED WITH THE UNIT WHEN IT ARRIVES JUST SEND IT BACK . IT IS NOT A USED POSI IT IS A REBUILT POSI WITH A NEW BILLIT CLUTCH COVER .HOW MUCH WARRANTY DO THEY WANT ? LIFETIME ? LISTINING TO TO MANY UNINFORMED PEOPLE CAN DRIVE YOU CRAZY . RESURCH ,MAKE A DECISION AND STICK WITH IT
About mine:
IF YOU ARE NOT SATIFIED WITH THE UNIT WHEN IT ARRIVES JUST SEND IT BACK . IT IS NOT A USED POSI IT IS A REBUILT POSI WITH A NEW BILLIT CLUTCH COVER .HOW MUCH WARRANTY DO THEY WANT ? LIFETIME ? LISTINING TO TO MANY UNINFORMED PEOPLE CAN DRIVE YOU CRAZY . RESURCH ,MAKE A DECISION AND STICK WITH IT
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03-03-2009, 11:33 AM
#8
Q. What kind of warranty do I get on my parts.and/or labor?
A. Any shop that is familiar with rear ends will probably have some limitations to their warranty. Some of the common warranty restrictions that we use in our shop are: Mini and mid-size trucks (Jeeps®, Ford Rangers with 7.5" diff, Toyota trucks) with tires taller than 31"; half ton trucks with tires taller than 33"; three quarter and one ton trucks with tires taller than 35"; trucks used for towing have a shorter than standard warranty; and vehicles used for competition or racing are not warranted. These may seem like extreme limitations, but they are sometimes necessary to protect the shop from people (like myself) who abuse their vehicles on or off road.
A. Any shop that is familiar with rear ends will probably have some limitations to their warranty. Some of the common warranty restrictions that we use in our shop are: Mini and mid-size trucks (Jeeps®, Ford Rangers with 7.5" diff, Toyota trucks) with tires taller than 31"; half ton trucks with tires taller than 33"; three quarter and one ton trucks with tires taller than 35"; trucks used for towing have a shorter than standard warranty; and vehicles used for competition or racing are not warranted. These may seem like extreme limitations, but they are sometimes necessary to protect the shop from people (like myself) who abuse their vehicles on or off road.
03-03-2009, 01:19 PM
#10
03-03-2009, 07:01 PM
#14
See what I should have done is ordered it from jump since it comes with the trans torque arm relocation and torque arm. I bought those pieces for the 10 bolt but I can sell them. The midwest piece is better if A.. it doesn't hit the underside of the car and B.. has all the brackets unlike the other units. Plus it has the relocation bracket for the control arms for a car that is lowered like mine ($80 for brackets). No-brainer!
03-03-2009, 10:15 PM
#16
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I will highlight a couple things
1. WAR case is weaker than stock case
2. Stock Case is weaker than Ford "N" Nodular case
3. Ford "N" Nodular Case is weaker than Strange Nodular Street Case
4. Strange Nodular Street Case is Weaker than Strange Nodular Pro Case
5. The Pattern on that gear is too deep.
6. All the products we sell come with a 1 year manufacture warranty
7. Obviously parts are built for certain power levels, if you go over the recommended power level of that part no manufacture is going to stand behind it.
8. For what you spent versus the quality of the differential(3rd Member) you got is about equal, you always get what you pay for.
9. Good luck and hope that thing holds up, for a budget build it is an okay way to go.
10. I personally could not justify my safety and the quality of parts going on my car to try and save a buck but that is just me.
03-03-2009, 10:27 PM
#17
A fool and his money!
Well the way I do things is to spend wisely and get what works for my budget and my power. We can't all have the best or be a vendor. So I guess you need to change your site and the 1 year wouldn't fly with racers here.
You must be an eyeball engineer if you can read the pattern on the pinion!
Going off the safety logic you should be casting stones at all the 10 bolt users here running c-clip axles on weak rears. This has to be a step to more safety hands down!
Well the way I do things is to spend wisely and get what works for my budget and my power. We can't all have the best or be a vendor. So I guess you need to change your site and the 1 year wouldn't fly with racers here.
You must be an eyeball engineer if you can read the pattern on the pinion!
Going off the safety logic you should be casting stones at all the 10 bolt users here running c-clip axles on weak rears. This has to be a step to more safety hands down!
03-03-2009, 10:43 PM
#19
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I do not understand your thought process here? Last week I answered you via pm on at least 5 or 6 options for a differentail. You cleary went the total opposite way than was suggested, and now it just seems like you want to pick a fight or argue? I am just giving you advice and the facts, don't take it personal, I am not. Obviously you are gonna do what you want to do and it is your decesion. But if you were gonna do it right for the power range you told me you had I would have gone a different direction. You originally were asking about a housing we were selling that was setup with a 35 spline axle and asked about a 3rd member for it with a detroit locker/spool setup. Now you bough a used positraction, war case housing with 31 spline axles. Like I said I don't care what you buy or who you buy it from, just giving you advice and trying to answer peoples questions. I see no reason to argue about what you bought, why you bought it, and who you bought it from. Remember other people read this and better to have them educated instead of mislead by false information that you or others might be giving. Like I said, the pattern is deep, you can see it on the ring gear teeth, coast side. We have setup more differentials than there are members on this board so I certainly hope I know what I am talking about LOL. Good luck with the 3rd member, I hope it all works out for you.
PS you can see the pattern is kind of half moon going towards the root of the gear. That tells me your pinion is too deep and you need to add more shim. The pattern is more visible by the exploded view above, but this is the picture that tells the story.
PS you can see the pattern is kind of half moon going towards the root of the gear. That tells me your pinion is too deep and you need to add more shim. The pattern is more visible by the exploded view above, but this is the picture that tells the story.
Last edited by Jawsgear; 03-03-2009 at 10:48 PM.