Just rebuilt my 10 bolt
#1
Just rebuilt my 10 bolt
As the title states, thats what I did.
Now I have noise. Its a light whine only while cruise/off throttle...
Whats the easy fixes (stupid little things)
And whats the worst it could be?
If i gotta tear through the b*tch again, can I do it and re-shim it?
I just did the bearings/races... all of them, and yes I used a new crush sleeve.
I need a solution, or a list of them. I wanna start small, then go big. Please dont tell me Moser 9" or 12-bolt, because I just dropped my tax returns on a full exhaust system, but was sent the wrong muffler, I'm having a really bad week!
Now I have noise. Its a light whine only while cruise/off throttle...
Whats the easy fixes (stupid little things)
And whats the worst it could be?
If i gotta tear through the b*tch again, can I do it and re-shim it?
I just did the bearings/races... all of them, and yes I used a new crush sleeve.
I need a solution, or a list of them. I wanna start small, then go big. Please dont tell me Moser 9" or 12-bolt, because I just dropped my tax returns on a full exhaust system, but was sent the wrong muffler, I'm having a really bad week!
#5
i had the same problem this past week aswell. my problem was the right side axle bearing already went out. idk how it went out i had it in for 4 days. but i went through my whole rearend again bc i couldnt stand the whine. but now its gone.
#7
On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being it's OK to drive, and 10 being ticking time bomb, where would this fall under?
And so, after wasting $100 on my rear, the next thing should be an upgrade, correct?
Is there a recommended Gear Oil that will quiet them down? Something I can do? I have an A4, Torsen diff, and stock 3.23s with 65K on them.
And so, after wasting $100 on my rear, the next thing should be an upgrade, correct?
Is there a recommended Gear Oil that will quiet them down? Something I can do? I have an A4, Torsen diff, and stock 3.23s with 65K on them.
Last edited by TransAm_VS_VR-4; 04-04-2010 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Addition
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#8
This isn't "a little bit" of gear whine, it's terrible. I'm going to get...
a new pinion seal
outer pinion bearing (in case i bust mine)
crush sleeve
gear paint
gear oil + additive
I'm just going to go through the thing again. Maybe my bearings aren't seated fully on the pinion, the carrier, or both. I started this project at 10am and finished at 11pm. So, I may have overlooked some things. SMALL things make a BIG difference.
a new pinion seal
outer pinion bearing (in case i bust mine)
crush sleeve
gear paint
gear oil + additive
I'm just going to go through the thing again. Maybe my bearings aren't seated fully on the pinion, the carrier, or both. I started this project at 10am and finished at 11pm. So, I may have overlooked some things. SMALL things make a BIG difference.
#9
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (12)
If its wining as bad as you state, then you missed the set up badly. Just because the pattern looks good does not mean its going to be dead quiet. Just adding .002" can really change things up for the good or the worse.
You can take it back apart and re-shim it if it does not have many miles with no worry of abnormal wear. Just dont drive it more than you have to till its right.
BTW gear oil will not quieten them down.
10 bolts are a PITA to set up. It take a long time between pinion shim changes and re-reading of the gears. Just make sure you are reading the patterns right. IMHO this is very tricky and most folks dont know how to do it.
Here is a good tip if you want to take the time to do it if you expect to be in the 10 bolt frequently. Take a pair of pinion bearings and hone the ID's down so they can slip over the pinion shaft and treat these as test fit bearings only. You will no longer have to press and hammer out the bearings between pinion shim changes and this makes the job much easier.
If you ever get a stronger rear, get a 9". They are so much easier to set up than the 10 bolt. You can even make pinion changes with the rear on the car and make test drives in a fraction of the time you can with the 10 bolt.
You can take it back apart and re-shim it if it does not have many miles with no worry of abnormal wear. Just dont drive it more than you have to till its right.
BTW gear oil will not quieten them down.
10 bolts are a PITA to set up. It take a long time between pinion shim changes and re-reading of the gears. Just make sure you are reading the patterns right. IMHO this is very tricky and most folks dont know how to do it.
Here is a good tip if you want to take the time to do it if you expect to be in the 10 bolt frequently. Take a pair of pinion bearings and hone the ID's down so they can slip over the pinion shaft and treat these as test fit bearings only. You will no longer have to press and hammer out the bearings between pinion shim changes and this makes the job much easier.
If you ever get a stronger rear, get a 9". They are so much easier to set up than the 10 bolt. You can even make pinion changes with the rear on the car and make test drives in a fraction of the time you can with the 10 bolt.
#10
Thanks for the reply. I went under the car and ripped it all back apart. My pinion nut pre-load was off, I don't know how much, but I bought a new torque wrench and the specs were off. I fixed that, then noticed that one of the bearing races was not fully seated nor fully covering the bearing on the carrier. It's a good thing I drove under 50miles like that. After everything, I did notice I picked up whine, probably from the bad set-up. But, it's 95% gone, and now I believe it to be "OK" and safe to drive.
#13
I did the bearings, not the gears. So 99% of the time, you don't need to re-shim your carrier or your pinion. Bearings have to be dead on, and the only variables i had was the bearing and the pinion.