Building a junkyard 9" compared to 8.8
12-21-2010, 11:57 AM
#41
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Just got off the phone with Moser, looks like I would need thier 7900FM housing end. The FM stands for flush mount, which means the Ford bearing would be flush with the outside surface of the end. And my brake brackets would become the bearing retainer.
http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...lip-axles.html
http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...lip-axles.html
12-21-2010, 04:46 PM
#42
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yes you cut the ends off but need fixture to hold the housing ends. it is def worth it though. made it nice to just slide the stock brakes on. i also made my own torque arm too. that was more time consuming that i thought would be. but it did pull 1.60 60ft first time out. so pretty content with that.
12-23-2010, 03:33 PM
#45
True, true, but for some of us, those things are insignificant. The main reason I went with a 9" is because it's super easy to work on and the parts availibity is unmatched when it comes to the aftermarket. I got tired of dealing with 10 bolts so overkill is fine for me.
I will say though, when it comes to weight, the 9" (in factory form) is a heavy **** and you can feel it on the car when you drive aggressively.
I will say though, when it comes to weight, the 9" (in factory form) is a heavy **** and you can feel it on the car when you drive aggressively.
12-23-2010, 03:40 PM
#46
Just got off the phone with Moser, looks like I would need thier 7900FM housing end. The FM stands for flush mount, which means the Ford bearing would be flush with the outside surface of the end. And my brake brackets would become the bearing retainer.
http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...lip-axles.html
http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...lip-axles.html
You'll also need the correct bearings from Moser. Again, Moser will charge you a little more than you may be able to find them locally (I couldn't even find them locally.) In the past, I have always gone ahead and ordered the ends, the T-bolts, and the proper bearings at one time. It will save you the headache of not being able to finish your build and on shipping costs (only have to ship parts once.)
12-23-2010, 08:21 PM
#47
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Yes, the 7900FM ends are the ends you would need, and will allow you to run factory GM disk brakes. However, make sure you also order the Moser T-bolts to fasten the backing plates to the 7900FM ends. You could also source yours locally, but I found just paying a little more from Moser to get the correct bolts was well worth the few extra dollars.
You'll also need the correct bearings from Moser. Again, Moser will charge you a little more than you may be able to find them locally (I couldn't even find them locally.) In the past, I have always gone ahead and ordered the ends, the T-bolts, and the proper bearings at one time. It will save you the headache of not being able to finish your build and on shipping costs (only have to ship parts once.)
You'll also need the correct bearings from Moser. Again, Moser will charge you a little more than you may be able to find them locally (I couldn't even find them locally.) In the past, I have always gone ahead and ordered the ends, the T-bolts, and the proper bearings at one time. It will save you the headache of not being able to finish your build and on shipping costs (only have to ship parts once.)
Do the Moser ends not slide inside the Ford tube?
12-23-2010, 11:31 PM
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no the ends do not slide in. they are chamfered so that you butt weld them. when you install them make several tacks all the way around working in diagonal pattern keep the end straight.
12-24-2010, 09:00 AM
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Should I put any money in the factory center section? I have heard they break where the spanner retaining nut threads into the cap. By the time I buy a posi a ring and pinion and an install kit I can buy a complete center section.
How much HP does it take to break the factory center? I dont really ever plan on having anything over 400-450 RWHP.
How much HP does it take to break the factory center? I dont really ever plan on having anything over 400-450 RWHP.
12-24-2010, 09:10 AM
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obviously an aftermarket center would be better. but i am still running stock center too. are you auto or stick?
i ran the factory posi for long time just kept putting new clutches in. would hold up for a while then capt pegleg would come back.
i made a jig for mine. that way i knew where all the brackets went. more likely i will be making a few more.
s&W racecars sells a universal torque arm i think i will try that next time as opposed to building my own. would be able to knock the whole job out in no time. it has its own tabs to weld on the housing just have to make front crossmember
i ran the factory posi for long time just kept putting new clutches in. would hold up for a while then capt pegleg would come back.
i made a jig for mine. that way i knew where all the brackets went. more likely i will be making a few more.
s&W racecars sells a universal torque arm i think i will try that next time as opposed to building my own. would be able to knock the whole job out in no time. it has its own tabs to weld on the housing just have to make front crossmember
12-24-2010, 09:12 AM
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also another thought. i have been seeing people selling 31 spline axles on here from time to time. i was gonna pick up a used set for next housing i build to save some money.
12-25-2010, 09:27 PM
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obviously an aftermarket center would be better. but i am still running stock center too. are you auto or stick?
i ran the factory posi for long time just kept putting new clutches in. would hold up for a while then capt pegleg would come back.
i made a jig for mine. that way i knew where all the brackets went. more likely i will be making a few more.
s&W racecars sells a universal torque arm i think i will try that next time as opposed to building my own. would be able to knock the whole job out in no time. it has its own tabs to weld on the housing just have to make front crossmember
i ran the factory posi for long time just kept putting new clutches in. would hold up for a while then capt pegleg would come back.
i made a jig for mine. that way i knew where all the brackets went. more likely i will be making a few more.
s&W racecars sells a universal torque arm i think i will try that next time as opposed to building my own. would be able to knock the whole job out in no time. it has its own tabs to weld on the housing just have to make front crossmember
12-29-2010, 10:34 PM
#55
I ordered the housing ends this morning, what bearings are you talking about? I am guessing they correct the brake backspacing. I paln on cutting the tubes down to make ther 9 the same exact width as the 7.5 after welding on the Moser ends. But the ford axels have the wrong brake spacing ,2.25, and will need to come out 1/2". So I was going to shorten the tubes about 1/2" then but a 1/2" spacer between the axel bearing and axel to move it out to make the brake backspacing 2.75. Should end up being the same width as the stock rear. Then the only problem is where the seal rides on the axel.
Do the Moser ends not slide inside the Ford tube?
Do the Moser ends not slide inside the Ford tube?
http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...r-bearing.html
I originally bought some Set20 big Ford bearings from my local NAPA, but they were not correct. I ended up having to buy the correct bearings from Moser. I don't remember exactly what the reason was, but the ones from Moser will work. Don't forget the T-bolts, too.
12-30-2010, 05:55 PM
#56
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Got my ends a couple days ago just havent had time to mess with it. The housing is over at my buddies house so when I get over there and start working on it I will get some more pictures up.
01-06-2011, 10:42 PM
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Got some work done on the housing today. Cut the housing down and welded on the Moser housing ends. The Moser ends are designed to butt weld to your housing. They have a tapered end that you weld too. We decided to machine the taperd section down in a lathe so that the ends would fit inside the housing. Made everything work real nice. We went ahead and shortend the housing to make it the exact length as the stock one. The stock housing measured 59 7/16 from backing plate flange to flange. We got the 9 within a 1/16" wider. We cut the factory ends of the 9 in a band saw then put the whole housing in the lathe and trued the ends up square. Now I just need to get to work on the brackets and axels.
01-06-2011, 10:44 PM
#59
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Sorry cell phone pictures kind of fuzzy.
So far I am just shy of $300.00 in this project.
$65 for 10 bolt to cut brackets off
$65 for the 9 inch ford
$90 for housing ends
$40 for an extra set of backing plates, rotors, and calipers off Craigslist.
This is what hot rodding is all about! I might even have this thing powder coated!
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 01-06-2011 at 11:19 PM.