Building a junkyard 9" compared to 8.8
#1
Building a junkyard 9" compared to 8.8
I see a lot of threads about people getting junkyard 8.8's and building them. Why not do the same with a 9". I was just looking around on Craigslist and found three 9" Ford's from $200.00 to $300.00. Currie makes the tourqe arm bracket to weld to the housing, it doesnt look to stout but could be copied and made better out of some plate steel. I know not everyone on here can do the fab work and wants a bolt in rear, but I can and dont mind doing the fad work to save some $. Why couldnt you cut the tubes off the 7.5 and weld them to the 9" like people are doing with the 8.8? Or cut the brackets off the 7.5 and weld them to the 9? I know you would still have to have some axels made. I did some searching and couldnt find where anyone had done it. For someone like me that doesnt need a full blown drag race rear and just wants peice of mind that thier rear is going to live this would be great.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=1595
I have seen the Quick Performance housing but I think I could build one of those. I dont know am I missing something.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...E.aspx?id=1595
I have seen the Quick Performance housing but I think I could build one of those. I dont know am I missing something.
#2
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-Will
#3
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I'm sure you can do it if you're inclined to do so. I sort of did the same thing in my '80 Malibu 20 years ago. You might end up close to what I sell the Moser housing and axle package for, here is a link to it. http://shop.brutespeed.com/Moser-9-I...-and-Axles.htm You could use the Moser and use a junkyard center section. Just an idea, as the little parts cost and time can add up. Bob
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#4
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Key word is JUNKyard...why get some 40 year old rusted out bucket of ****? Then scab a bunch of cobbled up brackets to it.... Trying to save a few bucks... Which will pay for itself in saved aggrivation and instead of being able to do the swap in a weekend you'll have god only knows how much time and money invested.... Why Worry about weight? dosent seem to be an issue when people pile subs amps and other pointless crap in a car... A 9 inch uses a little bit more HP who gives a crap.... we are not trying to qualify for the Daytona 500...
#5
It just seems like it would be easier to weld a TA bracket to a steel 9" housing then it would be to try and rig up something on a cast 8.8. I havent really looked into what it would cost to rebuild a stock center section but even a 40 year old Ford Cast center section is going to be way stronger them the crap thats in the car now. I am just exploring all options and am not afraid to do a little work to save some money. Even if I just got a used housing and bought an aluminum center ready to bolt in I think it would be worth it. Lord knows all I need is another project for my wife to bitch about, that could be worth just going on and spending the money...HUH...LOL
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I think people are going with the 8.8s because alot of mustangs use them, so stock and aftermarket parts are plentiful and pretty cheap and can stand up to a decent amount of power.
The stock 9" lockers that you can get from junkyards arnt known for holding up too well, and the aftermarket parts can stand up to more abuse so are used by more hardcore racers and hence more $$$.
Someone correct me if im wrong.
The stock 9" lockers that you can get from junkyards arnt known for holding up too well, and the aftermarket parts can stand up to more abuse so are used by more hardcore racers and hence more $$$.
Someone correct me if im wrong.
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#8
I just found one with 31 spline axels, 3.73 gears, and the big outer wheel bearings for $100.00. I may go pick it up this weekend. I can always get $100.00 back out of it if I dont use it.
http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/2073226119.html
http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/2073226119.html
#9
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I just found one with 31 spline axels, 3.73 gears, and the big outer wheel bearings for $100.00. I may go pick it up this weekend. I can always get $100.00 back out of it if I dont use it.
http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/2073226119.html
http://lexington.craigslist.org/pts/2073226119.html
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#11
Key word is JUNKyard...why get some 40 year old rusted out bucket of ****? Then scab a bunch of cobbled up brackets to it.... Trying to save a few bucks... Which will pay for itself in saved aggrivation and instead of being able to do the swap in a weekend you'll have god only knows how much time and money invested.... Some of us don't have the money to buy a brand new rear, but have the skills to build one. Some of us have both the money and the skills, but like to build something different for our cars, but from parts that are readily available. Most of us want a rear that is quiet and handle the abuse from clutch dumps. The 8.8 is tough and quiet.
Why Worry about weight? dosent seem to be an issue when people pile subs amps and other pointless crap in a car... Unsprung weight and sprung weight are VERY different, first of all. You're purely thinking in terms of total weight, which is just a small part of the greater equation. Since you're thinking in terms of total weight, my 8.8 and Maximum Motorsports Torque Arm weighs-in within just a few pounds of the stock 10-bolt and BMR torque arm that was removed, a few pounds lighter than a 12-bolt, and drastically less than a 9" or S60.
A 9 inch uses a little bit more HP who gives a crap.... we are not trying to qualify for the Daytona 500... I give a crap. If I have the skills to build my own reliable rear to replace the stock POS, why not build the rear that offers the best balance of horsepower loss and weight? The 9", if built correctly, is nearly un-breakable...but most of them are heavy and all of them have more parasitic loss than the other rear-end designs.
Why Worry about weight? dosent seem to be an issue when people pile subs amps and other pointless crap in a car... Unsprung weight and sprung weight are VERY different, first of all. You're purely thinking in terms of total weight, which is just a small part of the greater equation. Since you're thinking in terms of total weight, my 8.8 and Maximum Motorsports Torque Arm weighs-in within just a few pounds of the stock 10-bolt and BMR torque arm that was removed, a few pounds lighter than a 12-bolt, and drastically less than a 9" or S60.
A 9 inch uses a little bit more HP who gives a crap.... we are not trying to qualify for the Daytona 500... I give a crap. If I have the skills to build my own reliable rear to replace the stock POS, why not build the rear that offers the best balance of horsepower loss and weight? The 9", if built correctly, is nearly un-breakable...but most of them are heavy and all of them have more parasitic loss than the other rear-end designs.
#12
#13
That statement right there is why people build 8.8s instead of a 9in. The 8.8 is lighter, has plenty of strength, parts may be a bit cheaper, and they are plentiful. I chose an 8.8 for most of those reasons, and because other people had done them. A 9in would be overkill and just rob more hp.
-Will
-Will
#14
Anyway I may be picking up this rear end Sunday. Now I need to find a 7.5 housing for $100 to get some brackets. There is one on craigslist from a v6 car but the guy wants $150 for me to pull it. I am going to try to talk him down $50... Wont be a bad project starting out for $200.00. Since the weather is so bad here and I am iced in I need something to do.
#15
So that would put me at $700.00. Quick performance has axels ready to go for $300. So for around $1K I would have a bad *** rear end. That would be heavy.
Or I could not buy a posi for the stock center and buy a Strange Aluminum Case, Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support, 1350 Billet Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Gears, & Timken Bearings from Quick Performance for around $1300.
So that would be $200.00 for the housing, $1300.00 for a bullet proof center that is light weight and $300 for 31 spline axels. So for under $2000.00 I could have a bad *** rear that I could never break and would be light weight, as light or lighter then stock. And I would never have to worry about it.
#16
I could be in a housing for $200.00 plus my time fabing it up. Freshen up the stock center section that already has the gears I want. Maybe buy a posi for it for $400-$500.
So that would put me at $700.00. Quick performance has axels ready to go for $300. So for around $1K I would have a bad *** rear end. That would be heavy.
Or I could not buy a posi for the stock center and buy a Strange Aluminum Case, Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support, 1350 Billet Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Gears, & Timken Bearings from Quick Performance for around $1300.
So that would be $200.00 for the housing, $1300.00 for a bullet proof center that is light weight and $300 for 31 spline axels. So for under $2000.00 I could have a bad *** rear that I could never break and would be light weight, as light or lighter then stock. And I would never have to worry about it.
So that would put me at $700.00. Quick performance has axels ready to go for $300. So for around $1K I would have a bad *** rear end. That would be heavy.
Or I could not buy a posi for the stock center and buy a Strange Aluminum Case, Aluminum Daytona Pinion Support, 1350 Billet Steel Yoke, Motive Performance Gears, & Timken Bearings from Quick Performance for around $1300.
So that would be $200.00 for the housing, $1300.00 for a bullet proof center that is light weight and $300 for 31 spline axels. So for under $2000.00 I could have a bad *** rear that I could never break and would be light weight, as light or lighter then stock. And I would never have to worry about it.
Sounds great to me. Good luck with the build!!
#17
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I will say though, when it comes to weight, the 9" (in factory form) is a heavy **** and you can feel it on the car when you drive aggressively.
#18
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#19
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Building your own 9" using a stock housing would be a great build if you can do it. I would use a stock Ford housing before I would put time into a stock Ford center section though. We can also help you out by selling you all our laser cut housing brackets, torque arm, and cross member with weld on tabs.
You will need some fabrications skills along with a competent welder but we have sold these in kit forms many times to those building on a budget.
You will need some fabrications skills along with a competent welder but we have sold these in kit forms many times to those building on a budget.