Man I am pissed....
#1
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Man I am pissed....
Just built this 10 bolt as you can see in this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...r-10-bolt.html
I took it easy on it for about 200 miles. Took on a few 30-mile trips to work and back. Drove it on the interstate for about 30 minutes a few times. About 200 miles of normal driving. Anyway I took a friend for a ride in the car last Sunday and I rolled on it in 1st, broke the tires loose and hit 2nd..not real hard. Now the danm thing is whining.... I know everyone says 500 miles, but really....the factory does not put 500 miles on a ring and pinion before the car leaves and you cant tell me that when these cars were new that they wernt run hard a few times right off the bat. I am going to tear into it this weekend and look for anything obvious. Something had to have moved. I had to drive it about 20 miles with it making noise so I don’t think it would be hurt. It was silent up until that point.
Everything in it is new, pinion preload at 25 inch pounds, new crush collar, new pinion nut with red loctite. Back lash at .006. I like to reuse the factory style shims on the carrier, I have a small collection of them but couldn’t get the backlash I wanted using them this time so I had to use the shim packs. I have read that some manufactures use sheet metal to make shims and that they can compress under load. When I open it up I will check the backlash first to see if it has opened up any, then check pattern to see what it looks like. I could see this happening if I dumped the clutch but danm....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...r-10-bolt.html
I took it easy on it for about 200 miles. Took on a few 30-mile trips to work and back. Drove it on the interstate for about 30 minutes a few times. About 200 miles of normal driving. Anyway I took a friend for a ride in the car last Sunday and I rolled on it in 1st, broke the tires loose and hit 2nd..not real hard. Now the danm thing is whining.... I know everyone says 500 miles, but really....the factory does not put 500 miles on a ring and pinion before the car leaves and you cant tell me that when these cars were new that they wernt run hard a few times right off the bat. I am going to tear into it this weekend and look for anything obvious. Something had to have moved. I had to drive it about 20 miles with it making noise so I don’t think it would be hurt. It was silent up until that point.
Everything in it is new, pinion preload at 25 inch pounds, new crush collar, new pinion nut with red loctite. Back lash at .006. I like to reuse the factory style shims on the carrier, I have a small collection of them but couldn’t get the backlash I wanted using them this time so I had to use the shim packs. I have read that some manufactures use sheet metal to make shims and that they can compress under load. When I open it up I will check the backlash first to see if it has opened up any, then check pattern to see what it looks like. I could see this happening if I dumped the clutch but danm....
#5
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should of just saved for something better. thats what im in the process of doing ! my rearend is whining like a sob now. no use in spending $ on something thats just going to give out quick IMO
Good luck with ur issue
Good luck with ur issue
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I am building a 9 inch. I am just messing around with the 10 bolt. I would like for it to be in good working order when I yank it out, so that I can sell it if I want to.
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Dont think for a minute that M6s cant bust 10 bolts with just one hard shift. The ten bolts just aren't cut out for the job of being behind the manual. It seems to me everything was done as best as could be done. Sometimes its just not made to be I guess. Did the pattern move at all?
#16
With this type of rear axle, you need to have the proper pre-load or crush on the carrier bearings. Measured with the pinion out. And if you hammer the shims in, your looking for trouble. Make a case spreader and use it.
Al
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Dont think for a minute that M6s cant bust 10 bolts with just one hard shift. The ten bolts just aren't cut out for the job of being behind the manual. It seems to me everything was done as best as could be done. Sometimes its just not made to be I guess. Did the pattern move at all?
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Once they start whining, it's rare to get it to stop.
With this type of rear axle, you need to have the proper pre-load or crush on the carrier bearings. Measured with the pinion out. And if you hammer the shims in, your looking for trouble. Make a case spreader and use it.
Al
With this type of rear axle, you need to have the proper pre-load or crush on the carrier bearings. Measured with the pinion out. And if you hammer the shims in, your looking for trouble. Make a case spreader and use it.
Al
Never mind just found some pictures. Looks pretty simple. Maybe next time.
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 01-10-2011 at 02:26 PM.
#20
The pattern looked the same to me...I dont get it. I am tired of messing with it I know that much. I might mess with it when I take it out to put the 9 in just to torubleshoot it and learn from it. I am hammering the shims in, I think that is what caused my factory housing to have some run out on the ring gear. Takening the carrier in and out so many times and hammering the shims in. I know that it flares them out on the ends. I hate to let stuff beat me but this has done it. If I had a lift and was not doing it on my back it might be a different story.
12 bolts are not the easiest rear to deal with but just one Dana will make a 12 bolt seem like child's play.
When I worked on 12 bolts I used a Pinion nut with the end ground off so it was easy to get on and off and I set Pinion depth with a used crush sleeve. Just hammer it out a tad. Crushing a new sleeve can be brutal, DO NOT use an impact wrench to crush it. Never back the nut off. If you get the pre-load too tight throw the new nut and sleeve away! I know, it's a lot of extra work but that's they way to do it.
Have found no advantage going to a solid spacer over a crush sleeve. IF you use a new nut and sleeve.
Al