Best for a 10 bolt
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Co Springs, FT Carson
Best for a 10 bolt Im planning on doing something like GM high techs STI killer build with my 02, whats the best and most durable axles, and posi for a 10 bolt, also whats the best rebuild kit along with the rear girdle, thanks for the input, im not putting in an aftermarket rear, and im planning on doing this rebuild myself, it will be a ls3/t56 drivetrain.
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
Pissin into the wind with it being behind a six speed car, but that is my .02
The unit and axles aren't the problem, it's the small ring gear
The unit and axles aren't the problem, it's the small ring gear
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Co Springs, FT Carson
I dont want to spend another 2k plus on a rear end, I know 10bolts are hit and miss, more miss, I want to rebuild it some im lookin for real info, i know about the ditch it and get something better i did that with my 01 but I think it was because the shop I took it to funked up my gear install, I know quite a few of my buddys that run 10 bolts with no real issues n20 cars turbo cars ect
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From: Co Springs, FT Carson
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Omahaish. Nebraska.
The above are right about the ring gear size being the major issue, but if you are dead set on rebuilding it, obviously new seals are a must, along with ALL the bearings, wether they are bad or not. Axle wise I have moser ones in mine (don't ask, I didn't put them in there) and an Eaton diff unit with motive 3.73s. Other things I would recommend are a rear girdle and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin to help against flex. But that's only gonna let it live marginally longer than it would otherwise with your car being a 6 speed, unless you granny drive it.......
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 266
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From: Co Springs, FT Carson
The above are right about the ring gear size being the major issue, but if you are dead set on rebuilding it, obviously new seals are a must, along with ALL the bearings, wether they are bad or not. Axle wise I have moser ones in mine (don't ask, I didn't put them in there) and an Eaton diff unit with motive 3.73s. Other things I would recommend are a rear girdle and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin to help against flex. But that's only gonna let it live marginally longer than it would otherwise with your car being a 6 speed, unless you granny drive it.......
wont really be "granny driven" but also the thing is I i funk up building the 10 bolt im not to worried since there cheap and what not, its gonna be a learning experience
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
I went 6.80s on a 10 bolt but that was with an A4 which they tend to break less behind them.
Just be prepared to spend the jack to keep rebuilding it or get a 9", 12 bolt or S60.
Just be prepared to spend the jack to keep rebuilding it or get a 9", 12 bolt or S60.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: houston, texas
stripped out two diff's and one ring gear. you figure 500 for a diff and bearings twice and 450 for a gear set and bearings once. half the price of a new 12 bolt. thats why i have one now. you are looking at 200 for axles, 300 for all bearings and seals, 450 for an eaton posi, 150 for a TA girdle. all of that is junk except for the girdle when it blows up. anyway good luck.
Looks like a nice car. Do you really want to chance all that loot you have in the other things at the hands of a 10 bolt?
I would just drive the 10 bolt as-is and put the money you would have in the bank drawing interest for a better rear to work with.
- Moser axles
- Girdle cover
- Billet spool
- Weld axle tubes
- Motive gears
That's starters on the 10 bolt. Billet caps and the darned best fasteners you can buy for it. Most of the failures I have seen here are the gears or bolts holding the ring on. Get whatever the best money can buy for ring bolts since it happens often.
You can probably get into a Dana 60 cheaper than my MWC 9"
I would just drive the 10 bolt as-is and put the money you would have in the bank drawing interest for a better rear to work with.
- Moser axles
- Girdle cover
- Billet spool
- Weld axle tubes
- Motive gears
That's starters on the 10 bolt. Billet caps and the darned best fasteners you can buy for it. Most of the failures I have seen here are the gears or bolts holding the ring on. Get whatever the best money can buy for ring bolts since it happens often.
You can probably get into a Dana 60 cheaper than my MWC 9"
A Dana 60 also weighs as much as a small house. Its basically a truck rear, strong buy very heavy.
Best option is a 9" obviously, but they are not cheap. If you want one with ABS/TC, a limited slip (no spool), and all the necessary hardware, you're easily looking at close to $3,000 shipped.
Best option is a 9" obviously, but they are not cheap. If you want one with ABS/TC, a limited slip (no spool), and all the necessary hardware, you're easily looking at close to $3,000 shipped.
I pulled my OE 7 1/2 2 months ago with 76k on it running A4/Yank ST 3500/MT drag radials with 1.64 @ 60 ft with a lot of wheel hop
this is about the cost to hold it together,( but good luck with the 6 Spd)
rebuild 10 bolt
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radials (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
this is about the cost to hold it together,( but good luck with the 6 Spd)
rebuild 10 bolt
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radials (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
