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Best for a 10 bolt

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Old 01-09-2011, 03:38 PM
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Default Best for a 10 bolt

Im planning on doing something like GM high techs STI killer build with my 02, whats the best and most durable axles, and posi for a 10 bolt, also whats the best rebuild kit along with the rear girdle, thanks for the input, im not putting in an aftermarket rear, and im planning on doing this rebuild myself, it will be a ls3/t56 drivetrain.
Old 01-09-2011, 06:21 PM
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Pissin into the wind with it being behind a six speed car, but that is my .02




The unit and axles aren't the problem, it's the small ring gear
Old 01-09-2011, 06:29 PM
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the best thing for the 10 bolt is to take it out and sell it for what weighs. and use that money for something like a 9" or 12 bolt
Old 01-09-2011, 06:35 PM
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The best thing for the 10 bolt is to tie a rope to it and throw it over the the side of your boat. I really ******* hate this things. Get rid of it.
Old 01-09-2011, 07:29 PM
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I dont want to spend another 2k plus on a rear end, I know 10bolts are hit and miss, more miss, I want to rebuild it some im lookin for real info, i know about the ditch it and get something better i did that with my 01 but I think it was because the shop I took it to funked up my gear install, I know quite a few of my buddys that run 10 bolts with no real issues n20 cars turbo cars ect
Old 01-09-2011, 07:32 PM
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lol no they are more like miss or miss. and are you sure your buddys are running 7.5 10 bolts?
Old 01-09-2011, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by SexyTransAm
lol no they are more like miss or miss. and are you sure your buddys are running 7.5 10 bolts?
yeah 1 in particular is runnin a high 6s in the 1/8 and mid 10 in the 1/4 hes and n2o car
Old 01-09-2011, 07:58 PM
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the only way I wont use the 10 bolt is wwhen I blows up and even thats a maybe, well that or I get alot of money, ( which I doubt)
Old 01-09-2011, 08:04 PM
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The above are right about the ring gear size being the major issue, but if you are dead set on rebuilding it, obviously new seals are a must, along with ALL the bearings, wether they are bad or not. Axle wise I have moser ones in mine (don't ask, I didn't put them in there) and an Eaton diff unit with motive 3.73s. Other things I would recommend are a rear girdle and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin to help against flex. But that's only gonna let it live marginally longer than it would otherwise with your car being a 6 speed, unless you granny drive it.......
Old 01-09-2011, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Blackhawk777
The above are right about the ring gear size being the major issue, but if you are dead set on rebuilding it, obviously new seals are a must, along with ALL the bearings, wether they are bad or not. Axle wise I have moser ones in mine (don't ask, I didn't put them in there) and an Eaton diff unit with motive 3.73s. Other things I would recommend are a rear girdle and weld the axle tubes to the pumpkin to help against flex. But that's only gonna let it live marginally longer than it would otherwise with your car being a 6 speed, unless you granny drive it.......
Thanks for the info,
wont really be "granny driven" but also the thing is I i funk up building the 10 bolt im not to worried since there cheap and what not, its gonna be a learning experience
Old 01-09-2011, 08:39 PM
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I went 6.80s on a 10 bolt but that was with an A4 which they tend to break less behind them.

Just be prepared to spend the jack to keep rebuilding it or get a 9", 12 bolt or S60.
Old 01-09-2011, 08:49 PM
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stripped out two diff's and one ring gear. you figure 500 for a diff and bearings twice and 450 for a gear set and bearings once. half the price of a new 12 bolt. thats why i have one now. you are looking at 200 for axles, 300 for all bearings and seals, 450 for an eaton posi, 150 for a TA girdle. all of that is junk except for the girdle when it blows up. anyway good luck.
Old 01-09-2011, 09:30 PM
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appreciate the info people,the 10bolt probably wont be permanent as in forever but it will be there for a bit, blow it up then get something differant
Old 01-09-2011, 09:59 PM
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Looks like a nice car. Do you really want to chance all that loot you have in the other things at the hands of a 10 bolt?


I would just drive the 10 bolt as-is and put the money you would have in the bank drawing interest for a better rear to work with.

- Moser axles
- Girdle cover
- Billet spool
- Weld axle tubes
- Motive gears

That's starters on the 10 bolt. Billet caps and the darned best fasteners you can buy for it. Most of the failures I have seen here are the gears or bolts holding the ring on. Get whatever the best money can buy for ring bolts since it happens often.


You can probably get into a Dana 60 cheaper than my MWC 9"
Old 01-09-2011, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Intercooler2
You can probably get into a Dana 60 cheaper than my MWC 9"
A Dana 60 also weighs as much as a small house. Its basically a truck rear, strong buy very heavy.

Best option is a 9" obviously, but they are not cheap. If you want one with ABS/TC, a limited slip (no spool), and all the necessary hardware, you're easily looking at close to $3,000 shipped.
Old 01-09-2011, 11:16 PM
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Yup and that's part of the reason I didn't get an S60. A 12-bolt might be near a 9" weight and cheaper as well. Sometimes they show up here used.
Old 01-10-2011, 08:54 PM
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I might just rebuild the 10 bolt so it "works" the get another 12 bolt, or get a 9inch
Old 01-10-2011, 09:04 PM
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S60 dont weight that much more than a 9" maybe 30 pounds

But atleast it will be there
Old 01-10-2011, 11:06 PM
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I pulled my OE 7 1/2 2 months ago with 76k on it running A4/Yank ST 3500/MT drag radials with 1.64 @ 60 ft with a lot of wheel hop
this is about the cost to hold it together,( but good luck with the 6 Spd)

rebuild 10 bolt

ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radials (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time



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