Factory glass 10 bolt...4000 stall???
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Factory glass 10 bolt...4000 stall???
I just got my new wheels and tires, they are 9" weld draglites with MT ET streets, I already have US Alloy axles and a series 3 carrier with Yucon 373 gears. I want to know what I can do to prolong the life of my rearend from blowing up from my 4000 stall...
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I been running Nittos and a 4k converter for a while, switched to ET streets....you think Im worried about the 10 bolt? Nope. Give it a fresh rebuild and it will hold.
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Thanks guys, I am just worried to grenade it, its not my DD but I have unloaded a bunch of $$$ on it this winter. I am putting adj LCA, Midwest Chassis torque arm, and a Drag Bar on it..
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Im not saying that the stocker isnt a weak POS, but with an auto you can load up the gears before the launch, which helps alot.
6 speeds eat 10 bolts because of the shock of a launch on sticky tires. Completely unloaded to completely LOADED on launch is ALL bad.
Just good gears, a girdle, and well setup suspension and you should be remotely safe.
6 speeds eat 10 bolts because of the shock of a launch on sticky tires. Completely unloaded to completely LOADED on launch is ALL bad.
Just good gears, a girdle, and well setup suspension and you should be remotely safe.
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Once the housing is distorted there is no "fix" for anything after that fact. You can throw all the parts you want at it but it will never be the same and issues will start to be prevalent. Not speaking from experience of anything from being on a 3rd 10 bolt after destroying two other ones. Bit the bullet and got a Moser 9" now
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my 10 bolt was still going when I pulled it a couple of months ago to install a 9" had 76k miles running Yank ST 3600 for 6-8 years then SS4000, pulling 1.64 short time
following is my mods to the 10 bolt
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 AAM (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radials (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
Johnny
following is my mods to the 10 bolt
ta cover/stud kit (140.00)
Detroit locker (525.00)
3.73 AAM (200.00)
mos axles (250.00)
welded tubes (nc)
mt drag radials (300.00)
air bags (50.00)
adjust ta on body mount(250.00)
relocate brackets (nc)
adjust lca (200.00)
adj phb (100.00)
all labor (nc)
all added a nickel and a dime at a time
Johnny
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Weld your axle tubes. Run a solid crush sleeve when you rebuild. Get an LPW girdle. Do anything you can do lighten the car. Don't abuse the car on the street
80 passes last year with Mts-sixtys 1.70- 1.60-no problems. MTs full time even on the street. Once you get to a certain power level though you will need to get a better rear though(ie forced induction,heads,big cam)
80 passes last year with Mts-sixtys 1.70- 1.60-no problems. MTs full time even on the street. Once you get to a certain power level though you will need to get a better rear though(ie forced induction,heads,big cam)
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I have seen the front tires lift on a full weight auto car shooting a 125 off the line. The ten bolt can hold. I have rebuilt a ton of them. Every one of them develops slack in the bearings over time. A fresh rebuild tightens them back to spec. I highly recommend that for the auto cars. There is no helping a 10 bolt behind an M6.
#17
I have been 6.94 @ 100 with a 1.48 60' on motor and a 6.90 spinning on a 175 kit due to bad burnout. When I tried it again the very next pass it stuck hard pulled the front tires and then slammed them right back down when the ring gear let go. That was with a 4.10 and 3400 converter.