Wicked 94TA

iTrader: (5)

I know there are quite a few threads on building a Ford 8.8 rearend for our cars on here but I've just got a few simple questions to get me started.

Which Ford rearend should I use to convert? One from a Mustang or from an Explorer?

I'd like to go the route of using the axle tubes off of an F-Body 10 bolt. I've got a 10 bolt housing that sat out in the weather for a while. Are the tube off of that still gonna be good to use with my conversion?

cantfind2nd

iTrader: (24)

I used an explorer rear.... if i did it again id use a mustang one. expolorer rear is huge , 3.5 axle tubes. heavy!!!!!!!! center section is massive compaired to mustang. but i narrowed mine -4 each side and mini tubbed it. it looks beefy ,most think its a dana 60. hasnt broke yet. 1.5 60fts....

Wicked 94TA

iTrader: (5)

Seems like everybody is doing the axle tubes different ways from what I'm seeing. I'd like to go the route of pulling the Ford tubes out and have my F-Body tubes pressed in. Does it matter which housing you use considering the truck 8.8's have bigger axle tubes?

cantfind2nd

iTrader: (24)

the truck / explorer have 3.25 inch tubes. im using stock explorer tubes. i just shortened them , im using ford brakes, bolt pattern and axles. but im narrowed 8 inches total and mini tubbed. 15 x 10 wheels with 3.5 bs.

cantfind2nd

iTrader: (24)

if you use a stock width mustang 8.8 with gt or cobra brakes , your only -2 inches each side which looks killer with the right wheel. but not sure about abs... i lost mine, but dont care stops great and always turned traction control off first thing anyways.

LosLs1's

iTrader: (21)

Go with the mustang housing. The ones from the SUVs are huge and so are the axle tubes compared to the mustangs housing. I did a mustang one using my 10 bolt axle tubes and looks factory installed on the car I had a torque arm mount welded on as well

Maroboy

iTrader: (1)

dont mean to still the thread, but what years are better from mustangs?
i been wanting to do this, but i cant find no one that can get it done right

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Hard to find a good 8.8 in a mustang, most got the 7.5's

The donor rear is really arbitrary. I picked a ranger axle because it came with a 28 spline carrier and 3.55 gears already installed. This allowed me to slip my stock 10 bolt tubes and axles in with no custom/mix-match parts

I cant say with absolute certainty, but I doubt you'll be able to directly press in 10 bolt tubes in the 8.8 housing. The ford tubes have several step down sizes and are quite a bit larger OD than the 10 bolt tubes OD. Easiest to do is build a jig, then cut the 8.8 tubes 2-3" outside of the housing. Next, cut the 10 bolt tubes to where they have atleast 1" over overlap based on the axle length. Mount in the jig and weld. Car 8.8s will allow the 10 bolt tubes to slide right in. Truck 8.8s need about .040" taken off the 10 bolt tubes to be able to slide in. A lathe or grinder will get it done

lttransam

iTrader: (12)

mustang forsure. thats what i did on mine and was pretty straight forward.

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

Here's some pics of mine. We started with a 94-ish Mustang housing, then had Torino bearing ends welded on and the tubes welded to the center section. The guy who built the tq-arm mount for me built a jig from an old 10-bolt fbody housing that I had. I had to have axles built, as I'm using a 33-spline Wavetrac carrier....but you might have other cheaper options available if staying with 28-spline axles. I'm just not sure what the options might be. With the axles in, it's exactly 6 inches narrower (total) than the 10-bolt. The Mustang (as stated before) is probably the better housing to start with, as it's lighter and has smaller axle tubes.

Hope this helps.

hiltsy855

iTrader: (35)

salemetro - Nice looking setup. I see you used Dutchman axles, I think I'm going the same route. Are you happy with the fit & quality?

The Ranger 8.8 is a good option. I looked at a couple in the boneyard and they have axle 3" tubes (not 3 1/4" like the Explorer) so you should be able to machine the 10-bolt tubes down for a slip-fit.

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, they did a nice job. The only thing I had a problem with, was that the mounting flange OD was a few thousandths larger than the inside recess of my DBA disks that came with my rear BBK. I had to have the axles put back on a lathe and trimmed down slightly on the outside of the mounting flange...no big deal....but still a little frustrating.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

This is a dumb question, But how do I remove the tubes from a rearend? sorry to hijack

2manycamaros

^^^ this, im doing a build right now and keep finding cheap 12 bolts around. the only problem is who sells the axle ends? anyone have a good link to axle builds here?

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

I would not recommend it, but others may feel differently. On my build, it started out as a cheap build...but I then decided to go with a bunch of options, so the $$$ started to pile up. I like the fact that the 8.8 has less parasitic loss than a 9", 60, or 12-bolt...so I just decided to build it right, and see how well it holds up. We ended up removing all the mounting hardware from a junk Fbody 10-bolt, and welding it onto the 8.8 once everything was jigged up correctly. When I sent the housing out to have the bearing ends welded on, they made sure that the housing was straight at that time. Better to let a pro shop make sure the housing is true.

One thing to consider is that if you have the 9" "Torino" bearing ends welded onto the housing, you have a whole crapload of rear brake options available to you. Not to mention, no more c-clip axles since you go with custom axles at that point.

colt_impala

iTrader: (3)

That was my original thinking. the tubes are steel though, so I could MIG the 7.5 perches on, correct?

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

Exactly. The guy that did mine built a jig off of a Fbody 10-bolt. I cut the mounts off with a plasma, and he located them and welded them. Just be sure to make short welds and let them cool completely before welding more....the Mustang tubes are REALLY thin. You want to try to eliminate any heat-induced warpage in the axle tubes. After mine was done, I still had it verified "true" by the company that built my axles.