Strange 12-bolt wheel stud replacement
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Strange 12-bolt wheel stud replacement Fellas, I need to replace a stripped wheel stud on the passenger rear side. I know about removing the ABS sensor trick with a stock 10-bolt and feeding the stud through the hole, but can you do that with a Strange 12-bolt as well instead of having to remove the axle(s)? Thanks.
BTW, if anyone is looking for M12-1.5 x 2" Strange wheel studs you can find them here:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...AL%20%20&dds=1
BTW, if anyone is looking for M12-1.5 x 2" Strange wheel studs you can find them here:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...AL%20%20&dds=1
Last edited by Predator; Dec 27, 2011 at 02:32 AM.
I cut holes in the backing plates for this exact reason, but have yet to actually try getting the studs out that way. Since the Strange axles use screw-in studs, I'd need an impact gun, and I don't currently own one (and that's because I don't have a compressor suitable for running air tools). I have a set of 1/2" screw in studs from Mark Williams that I'd really like to install...maybe this year I'll get to it.
Well...there wasn't in mine because I ordered the rear without any ABS/TCS provisions, so I just cut the hole myself with a holesaw. If you used 4 channel backing plates, the holes would already be there.
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It was smart of you (thinking ahead) to cut those holes. I hate driving around with only four lug nuts tightened. These wheel studs are fragile. I still don't know what I did wrong to strip one of them. I mean I know I must have cross-threaded, but it sure didn't feel like it at the time. Thanks again.
I stripped a couple factory studs when I had my 10-bolt, so I learned the value of having those holes available for stud replacement back then.
I'm kinda disappointed in myself for leaving the Strange-supplied studs as is for as long as I have - I have yet to run a sticky tire though, so that's probably what's saving them for right now. I don't trust the studs they installed though for anything track-related...that's why I have those Mark Williams/ARP studs standing by. You might have given me enough motivation to just get it done...
I'm kinda disappointed in myself for leaving the Strange-supplied studs as is for as long as I have - I have yet to run a sticky tire though, so that's probably what's saving them for right now. I don't trust the studs they installed though for anything track-related...that's why I have those Mark Williams/ARP studs standing by. You might have given me enough motivation to just get it done...
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I stripped a couple factory studs when I had my 10-bolt, so I learned the value of having those holes available for stud replacement back then.
I'm kinda disappointed in myself for leaving the Strange-supplied studs as is for as long as I have - I have yet to run a sticky tire though, so that's probably what's saving them for right now. I don't trust the studs they installed though for anything track-related...that's why I have those Mark Williams/ARP studs standing by. You might have given me enough motivation to just get it done...
I'm kinda disappointed in myself for leaving the Strange-supplied studs as is for as long as I have - I have yet to run a sticky tire though, so that's probably what's saving them for right now. I don't trust the studs they installed though for anything track-related...that's why I have those Mark Williams/ARP studs standing by. You might have given me enough motivation to just get it done...
I have an air wrench but I didn't think I would need it for replacing a wheel stud. Couldn't you just use a breaker bar (length of pipe) on a ratchet if you had to?
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I'm just a street car, and I damaged the stud myself, but one of these days I might upgrade just for the peace-of-mind.
I have an air wrench but I didn't think I would need it for replacing a wheel stud. Couldn't you just use a breaker bar (length of pipe) on a ratchet if you had to?
I have an air wrench but I didn't think I would need it for replacing a wheel stud. Couldn't you just use a breaker bar (length of pipe) on a ratchet if you had to?
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You could use a breaker bar and/or a cheater pipe to do it, but you'd have to make sure the axle couldn't spin (either with the parking brake or physically keeping the yoke from spinning). The studs are in there pretty damn snug, which means they likely have some red loctite holding them in place. An impact gun would just be the easiest in my mind to keep from having to mess with all that...
Mostly I'm happy to know I don't have to remove the axles.
Last question, do you think there's any chance I could have messed up the threads in the lug nut too? I installed the lug nut on the stripped threads but never really looked at it. Thanks.
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Would you happen to know of someone online that sells chrome lug nuts? I'll look and see if I can find a store online selling a match of what I already have. They're just chrome nuts with a flat top. Thanks again.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
I've also ordered from Thunder Racing, but honestly, I'd just take one with me to a local auto parts store before I tried ordering something online...12mm x 1.50 lug nuts shouldn't be too hard to find.
I've also ordered from Thunder Racing, but honestly, I'd just take one with me to a local auto parts store before I tried ordering something online...12mm x 1.50 lug nuts shouldn't be too hard to find.
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
I've also ordered from Thunder Racing, but honestly, I'd just take one with me to a local auto parts store before I tried ordering something online...12mm x 1.50 lug nuts shouldn't be too hard to find.
I've also ordered from Thunder Racing, but honestly, I'd just take one with me to a local auto parts store before I tried ordering something online...12mm x 1.50 lug nuts shouldn't be too hard to find.
Thanks Steve! Nice talking to you too.
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From: Right across the river from Huntington, WV
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I shouldn't have to remove the axle. There's a stud replacement trick with 10-bolts where you remove the ABS sensor and access the stud from behind the backing plate through the hole where the sensor is installed. I haven't actually tried this with a Strange 12-bolt, but why wouldn't it work out? It defintely works with the stock 10-bolt:
Sorry to bump this old thread, but did you successfully remove a stud without having to remove the reluctor, etc.? Everything I have searched thus far shows that is a must on the Strange 12-bolt axles so I'm curious.
Discount Tire snapped mine off (right before I am about to sell it
) and gave me a ticket to bring it to their local "shop" to replace it on Discount's dime. If it's this difficult, I don't want their "shop" to turn my axle into FUBAR and everyone pointing the finger elsewhere meanwhile I'm stuck with the damaged part and a car I won't sell. I would almost rather do it myself just to make sure its done right and the new owner doesn't have any headaches.
Either way, let me know what you found if you attempted it.
Discount Tire snapped mine off (right before I am about to sell it
) and gave me a ticket to bring it to their local "shop" to replace it on Discount's dime. If it's this difficult, I don't want their "shop" to turn my axle into FUBAR and everyone pointing the finger elsewhere meanwhile I'm stuck with the damaged part and a car I won't sell. I would almost rather do it myself just to make sure its done right and the new owner doesn't have any headaches. Either way, let me know what you found if you attempted it.
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What I ended up doing was to purchase a split thread chaser like this (from Murray Tool Supply):
It worked out great and I was able to avoid removing the axle. Thanks.