Changing Oil in my Rear End
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Changing Oil in my Rear End
I have a 1998 WS6 Trans Am. 85k miles and just installed a new Monster Stage 1 clutch 1500 miles ago. Rear end is whining, im going to change the oil. Now, is it pretty similar to changing your engine oil? Ive read and come to the conclusion I will just take the cover off the differential. Its 10 bolts right?
Is there a drain plug to get the oil out, then do you replace that and take the cover off, inspect/clean the internals, put sealant on and bolt cover back on, and fill the oil back up through drain plug with pump bottle?
Is there a drain plug to get the oil out, then do you replace that and take the cover off, inspect/clean the internals, put sealant on and bolt cover back on, and fill the oil back up through drain plug with pump bottle?
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There is no drain plug on the factory diff cover. This is one of the few reasons people like to upgrade to the TA performance cover, a drain plug makes things much quicker.
Yes, just 10 bolts. Start at the bottom and take them out. You will have to pry the old gasket apart. Then just take the cover off and set aside.
Take a shop rag and get as much oil out as possible. After this is done, I like to spray some carb cleaner inside to further clean everything out. Dont forget to check the magnet for excess metal shavings. Dont be alarmed, there will be some shavings regardless.
Now it is time to put the cover back on. Put a 1/4" bead of red RTV around the housing and each bolt hole. Let this sit until it no longer sticks to your finger when you touch it. Then just align the new gasket up with the bolt holes and start threading in some of the bolts.
The bolts must be torqued, I do not recall the exact specification it calls for. Hopefully somebody else will chime in. Be sure to alternate opposite sides as you torque down the bolts, just how you would with your lug nuts.
Once the cover is on and torqued, pump the fluid in through the fill plug at the top.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Yes, just 10 bolts. Start at the bottom and take them out. You will have to pry the old gasket apart. Then just take the cover off and set aside.
Take a shop rag and get as much oil out as possible. After this is done, I like to spray some carb cleaner inside to further clean everything out. Dont forget to check the magnet for excess metal shavings. Dont be alarmed, there will be some shavings regardless.
Now it is time to put the cover back on. Put a 1/4" bead of red RTV around the housing and each bolt hole. Let this sit until it no longer sticks to your finger when you touch it. Then just align the new gasket up with the bolt holes and start threading in some of the bolts.
The bolts must be torqued, I do not recall the exact specification it calls for. Hopefully somebody else will chime in. Be sure to alternate opposite sides as you torque down the bolts, just how you would with your lug nuts.
Once the cover is on and torqued, pump the fluid in through the fill plug at the top.
Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
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So there is a fill plug on top of the diff? Is it on the pumpkin? I have only jacked my rear end up once, and thats when I noticed the pinion seal is leaking. I would like to change the oil until I can get the ol Bird in for service and have the front seal changed. Hoepfully I havent done too much damage yet already...
#6
Personally I only use Ultra Black on diffs (and never a gasket regardless) since it is the maximum oil resistance one they make. However, I just saw this and they also make a transmission one:
"OEM specified. Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases. Because gear oil has friction modifiers that break down normal RTV and cause leaking, this specialty silicone has been tested to OEM specifications to ensure complete sealing. As a gasket maker, it seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot. It can also be used to seal cut gaskets."
"OEM specified. Specially formulated to withstand the harsh gear oil environment found in differentials and transfer cases. Because gear oil has friction modifiers that break down normal RTV and cause leaking, this specialty silicone has been tested to OEM specifications to ensure complete sealing. As a gasket maker, it seeks and seals leak paths that cut gaskets cannot. It can also be used to seal cut gaskets."
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Is that for external use only? Im wondering if there is something you can put in along with the oil and LSD additive to maybe seal up the leaking pinion seal, kinda like how fix a flat is inserted inside the tire, then it fills the wholes in the tread where air leaks.
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#8
Shoot, I wish there was something to fix a pinion seal that easy. Only thing you can do for that is replace. You can use the spec'ed RTV out the outside seal flange during install and a light smear also goes in the yoke to keep fluid from coming up it. Once the lip decides it's going to leak that's about all she wrote. Got a problem like that with my Moser since they don't make the car 12 bolt seal anymore so they use a truck seal which sits too deep and gets ate up by the bearing.
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As for adding the new oil back in, hopefully you have some place nearby where you can get a cheap hand powered oil pump/siphon. The one I have came from Harbor Freight and looks like a bicycle pump with a hose at each end. One hose goes into the oil bottle, the other goes into your filler hole.
Jack the car up so the rear end is completely unsprung (don't loosen any springs or shocks, you just need to get more space to work with above/around the axle), and start pumping the oil in. If you go the "squeeze the bottle with a single hose" route, be prepared for hand cramping, especially if it's cool out. Offer a buddy a beer if he'll do it for you. It's well worth the price
Jack the car up so the rear end is completely unsprung (don't loosen any springs or shocks, you just need to get more space to work with above/around the axle), and start pumping the oil in. If you go the "squeeze the bottle with a single hose" route, be prepared for hand cramping, especially if it's cool out. Offer a buddy a beer if he'll do it for you. It's well worth the price
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Is that for external use only? Im wondering if there is something you can put in along with the oil and LSD additive to maybe seal up the leaking pinion seal, kinda like how fix a flat is inserted inside the tire, then it fills the wholes in the tread where air leaks.
- wear, due to mileage or a bad pinion bearing
- plastic shopping bags getting twisted up in there after getting picked up off the highway.
either way, this isn't something that would be fixed by a gasket-swelling additive (at least, not for long). To fix that right, you'll need to open the rear end up and get into other things as well (pinion pre-load, etc). Not fun.
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Nope. If there was, I wouldn't use it. I've only ever seen two causes for a bad pinion seal:
either way, this isn't something that would be fixed by a gasket-swelling additive (at least, not for long). To fix that right, you'll need to open the rear end up and get into other things as well (pinion pre-load, etc). Not fun.
- wear, due to mileage or a bad pinion bearing
- plastic shopping bags getting twisted up in there after getting picked up off the highway.
either way, this isn't something that would be fixed by a gasket-swelling additive (at least, not for long). To fix that right, you'll need to open the rear end up and get into other things as well (pinion pre-load, etc). Not fun.
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Just my .02
Edit - See you are from Indiana. Where at? Northwest myself, Crown Point.
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I go to all of the cruise nights. White's Pit stop, CP square, etc etc.
Will definitely keep an eye out and look forward to seeing your ride!
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I am in central Indiana, on the West border with Illinois. A city named Terre Haute. This place is a death-trap. lol
I dont have money to dump into a 2 grand rear end, guess Ill stop beating on my car for the time being, eh?
I dont have money to dump into a 2 grand rear end, guess Ill stop beating on my car for the time being, eh?