Making an 8.8 work
Most likely ditching asr/abs for this build. Having it is a low priority and not worth the time and effort it would take to figuring out how to make it work (budget wise).
If you have a 4 channel it would be easy to keep it since that has the rings and sensors on the axles/back plates. 3 channel would be hard due to the ring/sensor being on the carrier in the differential.
Good info in that link. I had it posted in my 8.8 build thread until it took a dirt nap LOL.
Also stumbled across this. Just about filled in all the missing links.
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...8_8-axle.shtml
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...8_8-axle.shtml
Yes, I just spoke with Moser and they can press on everything necessary to keep 4ch abs for an extra $50 with custom axles.
Big update:
As mentioned before, I purchased a bare 10bolt housing w/ bearings for $60.
A few hours ago I got a call from the junkyard saying they got an explorer in. Went down, checked out the axle tag and it couldn't have been better. 31 spline, 3.73 gear, limited slip, with flange yoke attached. Purchased that for $100.
The plan going forward is to order custom axles from Moser. These will be F-body stud pattern and length, have proper OD for hub bearing, and 31 spline for the explorer's diff. $290, or $350 to retain ABS.
I decided to go this route for these reasons:
1. Explorers ONLY have 31 spline axles
2. Rangers commonly have 28 spline axles but RARELY have posi
3. Ranger 8.8 would need an LSD, explorer 8.8 would need custom axles. In the end, $300 would go into each, but the ranger would only be 28 spline whereas the explorer will be 31 spline.
I'll be picking up both axles as soon as one of my wonderful friends with a truck decide to take a ride with me.
The build will begin once my custom axles arrive and I purchase a precision 355.
Today's question:
I've seen one build thread use a truing rod. Where does one obtain a truing rod with the correct OD?
Secondly, is there another solution to this besides using an axle shaft? (this method has a large margin for error)
As mentioned before, I purchased a bare 10bolt housing w/ bearings for $60.
A few hours ago I got a call from the junkyard saying they got an explorer in. Went down, checked out the axle tag and it couldn't have been better. 31 spline, 3.73 gear, limited slip, with flange yoke attached. Purchased that for $100.
The plan going forward is to order custom axles from Moser. These will be F-body stud pattern and length, have proper OD for hub bearing, and 31 spline for the explorer's diff. $290, or $350 to retain ABS.
I decided to go this route for these reasons:
1. Explorers ONLY have 31 spline axles
2. Rangers commonly have 28 spline axles but RARELY have posi
3. Ranger 8.8 would need an LSD, explorer 8.8 would need custom axles. In the end, $300 would go into each, but the ranger would only be 28 spline whereas the explorer will be 31 spline.
I'll be picking up both axles as soon as one of my wonderful friends with a truck decide to take a ride with me.
The build will begin once my custom axles arrive and I purchase a precision 355.
Today's question:
I've seen one build thread use a truing rod. Where does one obtain a truing rod with the correct OD?
Secondly, is there another solution to this besides using an axle shaft? (this method has a large margin for error)
To serve as a documented dimension sheet/order form, given to me by Moser:
Attached is the order sheet for custom axles made by Moser. If you hand this sheet to moser, they will build you axle shafts that:
-Fit Ford 8.8" Rear end from an 1999 Explorer with F-body rear end axle tubes(will fit earlier explorers up to 2001)
-All explorer gear ratios
-31 Spline axle (c-clip)
-stock F-body width
-stock F-body stud pattern
-stock F-body stud diameter
-retains ABS/TCS (still need to press on stock ring in addition to Moser's)
This will also be posted into the build thread once it's made.
Attached is the order sheet for custom axles made by Moser. If you hand this sheet to moser, they will build you axle shafts that:
-Fit Ford 8.8" Rear end from an 1999 Explorer with F-body rear end axle tubes(will fit earlier explorers up to 2001)
-All explorer gear ratios
-31 Spline axle (c-clip)
-stock F-body width
-stock F-body stud pattern
-stock F-body stud diameter
-retains ABS/TCS (still need to press on stock ring in addition to Moser's)
This will also be posted into the build thread once it's made.
You don't have to ditch ABS if you have 3CH. I've worked with a couple of other LS1Tech members and we've designed & built a tone ring that fits on the 8.8 carrier. With minor machining on the 8.8 housing you install the 10-bolt sensor and it's good to go.
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Verdad Gallardo Interesting. I figured with some fabbing it could be done.
I'm 4ch so I'm having Moser build the axles accordingly. I'll include all that good stuff in the build thread.
Hiltsy, do you have a link to that thread you could post for the 3ch people out there?
A search for "8.8" and "ABS" returned these threads.....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...l-options.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...g-success.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-8-8-swap.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...8-8-abs-2.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...l-options.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...g-success.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-8-8-swap.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...8-8-abs-2.html
Today's question:
I've seen one build thread use a truing rod. Where does one obtain a truing rod with the correct OD?
Secondly, is there another solution to this besides using an axle shaft? (this method has a large margin for error)
I've seen one build thread use a truing rod. Where does one obtain a truing rod with the correct OD?
Secondly, is there another solution to this besides using an axle shaft? (this method has a large margin for error)
I use a jig made from scrap steel and a digital level. True up the diff and ensure the axle tubes are level and strait to the machined cover surface. That'll put you close enough
Chuck up the lathe and make rings to hold a generic rod. Since the rod doesn't follow a universal specification, any found will be custom made
I use a jig made from scrap steel and a digital level. True up the diff and ensure the axle tubes are level and strait to the machined cover surface. That'll put you close enough
I use a jig made from scrap steel and a digital level. True up the diff and ensure the axle tubes are level and strait to the machined cover surface. That'll put you close enough
Well, its officially build time. All parts are in and at the shop. I'll create a build thread later tonight and post a link here. Heading out to pick up the custom Moser axles now. Thanks for all the info you put up in here guys, see you in the build thread.
I was giving some thought to a carbon clutch upgrade for the posi. Once its installed as is I'll see if it locks well or not, then replace the clutches with a carbon kit if necessary.
Who wants to recommend a kit?
Who wants to recommend a kit?
12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,273
Likes: 0
From: Bucks County, Pa.
I used this one and added an extra .005 or .010 shim in the clutch pack.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...00-b/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...00-b/overview/
I used this one and added an extra .005 or .010 shim in the clutch pack.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...00-b/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fm...00-b/overview/