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I have been looking for a rear ended upgrade for a few years now, and I'm pulling the trigger on the 8.8. For me the pros of the 8.8 (cost, no drivetrain loss like 9in, price) out way any of the other opinions for our cars. I will update this as I go through the build with price and part numbers to help others.
Price breakdown, with upgrades
10 bolt $125
8.8 $150
box $20
Shipping $67.71
Rearend Fab $760
Freight Shipping $128.75
Weld RTS's $1249 (narrowed the rear 3in per side)
Dutchman Axles $328
Moser diff cover $148.97
Gears, diff, install kit $526.84
Strange yoke1350 $89.97
Strange u bolts $13.97
Ford racing ring gear bolts $8.97
Moser/arp main stud kit $45
Front MT tires $360
Rear MT S/S $400
C Clips $5
LS1 rear brake conversion (new pads, rotors, calipers) $272.93
TRZ anti roll bar $565.25
AFCO Racing Eliminator Double Adjustable Drag Shocks $519.99
UMI Shock Relocation Kit $37.57
UMI Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets Bolt in $103.39
LS1 rear caliper bracket bolts $12
RPM Speed Stainless Steel Brake Lines $97.43
PST Driveshaft $593.60
TRZ adjustable lower control arms $275
Last edited by 95sscamaro; 02-25-2016 at 02:42 PM.
Its a start. Are you going to be doing the fab work or having someone else do it? Im sure you know it takes a special rod and heating technique that if not done rite will be disasterous when it breaks under a load!
Its a start. Are you going to be doing the fab work or having someone else do it? Im sure you know it takes a special rod and heating technique that if not done rite will be disasterous when it breaks under a load!
I'm not doing the fab work, sending out to TNT. But thanks for the heads up!
What are you going to do for a ds and u-joints? I opted to ditch the factory 8.8 flange type yoke and go with a Strange Engineering yoke that was sized for 1350 u-joints.
What are you going to do for a ds and u-joints? I opted to ditch the factory 8.8 flange type yoke and go with a Strange Engineering yoke that was sized for 1350 u-joints.
I haven't got that far yet, but my idea was much like yours. I didn't pull the DS from the explorer nor do i want to buy one, and if i'm going to buy the flanges i should just upgrade them when i'm in there.
Are you going to use a stock aluminum DS or after market?
Last edited by 95sscamaro; 10-05-2015 at 04:38 PM.
Nice built project, tuned in. I am building a second one this winter. My first one is holding up good considering all the used parts I used. Good luck.
I haven't got that far yet, but my idea was much like yours. I didn't pull the DS from the explorer nor do i want to buy one, and if i'm going to buy the flanges i should just upgrade them when i'm in there.
Are you going to use a stock aluminum DS or after market?
I was using the stock aluminum ds with a conversion u-joint just to get my 6.0/80e project up and running. Since dropping the 10 bolt and going with the 8.8 I'm having a steel 3" dom shaft built with 1350 ends from PST.
I got a chance today to get the 10 bolt apart, the pin for the diff was stuck but luckily I just had enough room to remove the c clips and pull the axles.
Got everything cut also.
Last edited by 95sscamaro; 10-06-2015 at 08:23 PM.
seems like a lot more of the TNT 8.8s are coming up. Im getting ready to send mine off as well.
Originally Posted by JRENIGAR
What are you going to do for a ds and u-joints? I opted to ditch the factory 8.8 flange type yoke and go with a Strange Engineering yoke that was sized for 1350 u-joints.
you have a part number?
did any of you other guys get a c-clip eliminator for it? or still running them? im putting new carbon clutch backs in it since they are so cheap and everything else is going to be apart anyway.
Wont be long. Seems like mine took 2 weeks to fab and get shipped back. Are you gonna swap out the stock pinion flange for a strange 1350 sized unit? What about a ds and u-joint? You gonna use the stock rear cover or an aftermarket one?
10-04-2015 | 10:08 PM
My 8.8 build Update 2/18 it's in 
