When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys I’m new to this website so forgive me on this thread I’m not real sure how to navigate yet but I’ve been reading different forums all day and all I can really find are guys bashing a4s with 4:10s in them my 98 10 bolt just went in the shop for a full rebuild and 4:10s I wanna know what kinda power I’m gonna have on take off (stock ls1 with SLP lid and LTs )and how the car will act low end as I am more into sliding than running over 100mph anyway plus in my area that’s not really an option anyway. Just looking for input thanks. ( 98 ws6 )
Hey guys I’m new to this website so forgive me on this thread I’m not real sure how to navigate yet but I’ve been reading different forums all day and all I can really find are guys bashing a4s with 4:10s in them my 98 10 bolt just went in the shop for a full rebuild and 4:10s I wanna know what kinda power I’m gonna have on take off (stock ls1 with SLP lid and LTs )and how the car will act low end as I am more into sliding than running over 100mph anyway plus in my area that’s not really an option anyway. Just looking for input thanks. ( 98 ws6 )
You’ll be fine. I run 4.10s in an A4 and I run the quarter mile. If you’re not going over 100 you’re definitely ok. Low end will feel quite a bit better especially if you’re going from stock 2.73s to 4.10s.
I've been running 4.56s' for 12 years now in my A4 98 Z28. 3.73s' have been the standard upgrade for many years now but many have been going to 4.10s' recently. Your freeway MPGs' should be about 22.5. Your 1st & 2nd gear acceleration will be wicked.
you should supply some other info on the car. What is the current torque convertor ? What is the current rear suspension set-up ? Both of those come into play with rear end gears.
With 4.10s your RPM at 60MPH would be 2250 and 2700RPM @ 72MPH.
The car is pretty much completely stock other than those couple of things and it’s got c5 zo6 wheels on it which are a little wider than stock wheels I’m running a 275/40/17 but thinking about going back to stock Wheels and bad tires once the rear is in just to make the low end that much more fun if it is what people are telling me it will be and the car had 3:23s in it originally
Seems like you're interested in the acceleration wickedness of gears.
4.10s' will increase the torque to the rear tires by 27%, it'll feel like you gained 80HP by the seat of the pants feel.
An increase to the rear needs improved rear shocks and LCA relocation brackets to be able to get traction.
AND evidently you're not even considering a better mod of an aftermarket convertor like a Yank SS3600.
I’ve thought about it but wouldn’t that be certain death on a stock 4l60 ? Was planning to have the transmission built with shift kit and possibly a tune for shift points and firmness. I’m not looking to do much with the car i just drive it on the weekends and want it to be kinda nasty for my hilly and curvy Two lane roads
...my 98 10 bolt just went in the shop for a full rebuild and 4:10s I wanna know what kinda power I’m gonna have on take off (stock ls1 with SLP lid and LTs )
Gears don't increase horsepower output, but changing ratios can and does have an effect on mechanical advantage (providing the "seat-of-the-pants" increase expressed by FirstYrLS1Z above). It tends to feel a lot more dramatic than the actual measurable gains though.
3.23 to 4.10 will be a noticeable increase, especially with the stock torque converter. But, as implied above, the real gains in this department come from a converter upgrade. The higher numeric gear ratio (4.10) will make any converter feel tighter than the stock 3.23s, so I wouldn't hesitate to go with a top shelf unit in the 3500-4000rpm stall range, even for a bolt-on only LS1, if you are looking for best potential acceleration rate (and by "potential" I mean that you will need proper tires and suspension to actually attain such).
Okay I’ll definitely look into some suspension work and parts for the car and sounds like I need a converter also I’ll be looking into all of the above thanks guys
^^^ posts # 7 & 8. Yep.
3.23s' to 3.73s' maybe a tenth, 3.23s' to 4.10s maybe 2-3 tenths. Convertor alone possibly 4-6 tenths with enough traction.
My change from 3.23s' to 4.56s' gave me a consistent/repetitive 5 tenths.
I've been running 4.56s' for 12 years now in my A4 98 Z28. 3.73s' have been the standard upgrade for many years now but many have been going to 4.10s' recently. Your freeway MPGs' should be about 22.5. Your 1st & 2nd gear acceleration will be wicked.
you should supply some other info on the car. What is the current torque convertor ? What is the current rear suspension set-up ? Both of those come into play with rear end gears.
With 4.10s your RPM at 60MPH would be 2250 and 2700RPM @ 72MPH.
4.10's and 60 mile an hour at 2250? I have a 4.11 gear in my car now and @60 miles an hour my car is 3200+RMP. Now my setup may be a little different than yours but i don't think 4.10's @60 MPH and 2250 rpm go together.
I’ve thought about it but wouldn’t that be certain death on a stock 4l60 ? Was planning to have the transmission built with shift kit and possibly a tune for shift points and firmness. I’m not looking to do much with the car i just drive it on the weekends and want it to be kinda nasty for my hilly and curvy Two lane roads
Without an external transmission cooler it will be certain death. Even with a good cooler a stock 60e is on borrowed time. A built 60 still needs a good cooler with any stall. if your more interested in curvy roads than the dragstrip I’d keep the stall around 3000.
Here's a pic of my ScanGaugeII on the way down to Florida from Ohio. It plugs into the OBD2 port and reads parameters off the factory computer. The dash tach reads about 150rpm higher than the ScanGaugeII. Has many items to read, pick and choose. Rear end gears are 4.56s'/A4. Would have been 3000rpm at 72mph which equates to 2650rpm had it been with 4.10s'.
First off I just wanna say anyone on the fence about 4:10s in the a4 don’t be my car feels absolutely insane now! It accelerates like a house fly and with the Detroit locker it locks up hard and quickly this thing is super fun now and in my opinion this is how these cars should feel stock. And as far as driving it casually goes..I’m running long tube headers into a SLP loudmouth 1 series “ muffler “ so you can probably imagine how insane it sounds but when it shifts into OD it sounds just like it did with the 3:73s it quiets down and sounds great out on the road but overall it’s wicked fun and if I ever put this one in a tree and end up with another auto I’ll without a doubt be running the same setup as far as the rear goes. Hope this helps you guys wondering about the 4:10 autos
To OP, welcome to the world of numerically high rear end gears.
If you ever decide that a torque convertor should be the next step, don't go 'cheap'. Inexpensive convertors have a lot of 'slip' to them and you'd be losing the 'tightness' of your OEM 1800 comvertor. Looseness/slippage creates transmission fluid heat and 3rd & 4th gear WOT isn't what it should be because of that looseness.
Now that you've got 4.10s, how's the traction ?
First off I just wanna say anyone on the fence about 4:10s in the a4 don’t be my car feels absolutely insane now! It accelerates like a house fly...
Glad you are happy with the results of the swap!
I would just remind folks that the difference feels much more dramatic than it actually is, in terms of measurable acceleration improvement. What's nice about optimizing the stall speed is that the WOT gains also feel dramatic, but the measurable acceleration improvement is actually much greater. Of course there's nothing wrong with doing both, but if there are budget limitations (and especially if you have to pay someone else for the gear install, which is the case for many folks) then the stall speed optimization is a better bang for the buck.
To OP, welcome to the world of numerically high rear end gears.
If you ever decide that a torque convertor should be the next step, don't go 'cheap'. Inexpensive convertors have a lot of 'slip' to them and you'd be losing the 'tightness' of your OEM 1800 comvertor. Looseness/slippage creates transmission fluid heat and 3rd & 4th gear WOT isn't what it should be because of that looseness.
Now that you've got 4.10s, how's the traction ?
Yup, go good with the converter and go high with the converter, LS motors seem to like a lot of converter and with the 4.10 gear you'll need more converter so the flash of the stall is high enough. Gears seem to "tame" a converter in a sense.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
4.10s in a4? 
