Stock rear HP limits?
#4
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less then the car makes stock... lol.
really, theres no telling. agressive street driving with street tires has been known to break some...
the more traction you have(read:use) and the more brutaly its applied (power slammed on) the more likely it is to break.
but there is no safe limit for agressive driving of any nature...
really, theres no telling. agressive street driving with street tires has been known to break some...
the more traction you have(read:use) and the more brutaly its applied (power slammed on) the more likely it is to break.
but there is no safe limit for agressive driving of any nature...
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The safe limit on the junk 10 bolt is 0 hp/0 tq...anything above that is likely to induce failure...LOL.
Seriously though, a lot of guys have good luck with autos and 10 bolts as long as they don't hook too violently. If you are not going to be putting tire on the car you should be ok for quite a while, especially if your gearing is 3.23...they tend to be a little stronger.
Seriously though, a lot of guys have good luck with autos and 10 bolts as long as they don't hook too violently. If you are not going to be putting tire on the car you should be ok for quite a while, especially if your gearing is 3.23...they tend to be a little stronger.
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Even with stock HP numbers, the 4l60e can take a dump. My suggestion is change the fluid frequently, get a trans cooler and never run more than 2 passes at the track back to back. Take a good 20 minutes in between if you run more than two in a row. When my trans finally went (at 55K miles, started slipping), I had done 4 passes in a row at the track that same day. On the way home, I noticed I was hitting the rev limiter in between shifts
My converter went in at 32K miles and my cam/headers at 40K, so I'd say most of the harder miles were during that time. Many low 12 second track passes and a lot of WOT street/highway runs. I'd say it did pretty good.
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All I did was add a lid, ported MAF, TB, and an exhaust and I broke the stock posi. Never had a problem with the A4, not even after I swapped in the stroker motor (although I'm sure I should step up to something stronger). As for the rearend, I dropped in one of those SLP Zexel units.... very nice.
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Originally Posted by FelixIlka
You could snap it with stock hp.
#13
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i think u missed the point of his question...."not drag racing"...the stock rearend is perfectly fine on the car for normal driving, and even roll racing with full bolt ons.
its when u shock the rearend with 300 rwhp instantly at a dead stop and have excellent traction, thats when ur rearend eats ****
its when u shock the rearend with 300 rwhp instantly at a dead stop and have excellent traction, thats when ur rearend eats ****
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Originally Posted by 382WS6
All I did was add a lid, ported MAF, TB, and an exhaust and I broke the stock posi. Never had a problem with the A4, not even after I swapped in the stroker motor (although I'm sure I should step up to something stronger). As for the rearend, I dropped in one of those SLP Zexel units.... very nice.
Back to back track runs should be ok as long as you have a way to monitor trans temps
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Well I am one of the lucky ones for sure, have made 505 rwhp and 512 rwtq and went 10.75 with a 1.50 sixty foot numerous times and so far, no problems. But with these rearends, it's all borrowed time.
#20
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As long as you don't try to force it to hook you should be fine regardless of how much power you have (just like spinning the tires in the rain). If you run E.T. streets or such and really try to get low 60' times with suspension mods and high RPM launches, beware.