How to Replace Axle Bearings in 99TA?!? 
How to Replace Axle Bearings in 99TA?!?
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 427
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From: B'ville, New York
Make sure you pull the abs sensors behind each caliper assembly or you will not be able to easily pull the c-clips out. Get a good puller, easily rentable from Autozone. Good luck and get the bearing seals too....
Just get a bearing puller of some sort, and like stated above, remove the ABS sensors so it is easier to get the axles out. It really isn't all that hard...just time consuming.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 101
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Last night a friend of mine that works for NAPA told me that this is a job that I shouldn't do myself...that I need to take my whole rearend out and take it to a shop to have it done...is this true? Do the bearings have to be pressed? Or anything balanced?
Originally Posted by NotSoStock99TA
Last night a friend of mine that works for NAPA told me that this is a job that I shouldn't do myself...that I need to take my whole rearend out and take it to a shop to have it done...is this true? Do the bearings have to be pressed? Or anything balanced?
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I don't press my bearings, I beat them on. At work I have 'special' tools for it, but all it really consists of is a large tube made of steel that fits around the inner race of the bearing (don't want it to touch/hit the cage).
If you needed to replace any bearings inside the rear end, you'd be hearing a good whine/howl going down the road, and may even find metal shavings attached to the magnet.
If you needed to replace any bearings inside the rear end, you'd be hearing a good whine/howl going down the road, and may even find metal shavings attached to the magnet.
Drive to Midas and have them do it.
I tried to repair one of my rear axle bearings, but I couldnt get that fu*ker out! I tried everything, including bearing puller, prying on it, propane torch, huge slide hammer(which almost pulled the car off the jack stands), and yelling at it. I took it to Midas and they said they had to use a hydraulic ram type of thing to get them out.
I tried to repair one of my rear axle bearings, but I couldnt get that fu*ker out! I tried everything, including bearing puller, prying on it, propane torch, huge slide hammer(which almost pulled the car off the jack stands), and yelling at it. I took it to Midas and they said they had to use a hydraulic ram type of thing to get them out.
When taking the axle bearing out, just make sure you are a getting a "perfect" level hit with the slife hammer...if you're not straight, you'll never get it out...you're not over your head...all you have to do is take the axles out, pill the bearings and tap them evenly back into place with a bearing tap kit? (circular piece of metal about the size of the bearing).
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Calgary AB
if I may offer my advice....
I'm rebuilding my 10 bolt on sawhorses, so it's easier to get at, but nonetheless... I heard about taking 3/4" water pipe, ~6' or so, and sliding it through from one side, to the other, catching it on the back of the bearing, and hitting the pipe until the bearing pops out.... I got one out this way (copper pipe too, not even steel!), but the other one I ended up knocking EVERY SINGLE roller out, and couldn't get it out. Rented a 3 jaw slide hammer puller, took 5 mins and got it out. Seals came out with the bearing.
putting in new bearings: just slip your new bearing in as far as it'll go, .5" maybe, then put your old bearing outside of it, put something flat across it (I used a piece of 2x8 wood), then just smacked the wood until the old bearing drove the new one in. Seal: put it in place, use your 2x8 and hammer the wood. Once it's flush you're done. Then I would put some axle oil on the bearings, and spin it with your finger to make sure it's well coated. mine were pre-greased, but clean on the inside, so I oiled them....
no special tools needed, pretty easy overall... Mine is a case from hell though, the cross shaft was a PITA to remove as well...
I'm rebuilding my 10 bolt on sawhorses, so it's easier to get at, but nonetheless... I heard about taking 3/4" water pipe, ~6' or so, and sliding it through from one side, to the other, catching it on the back of the bearing, and hitting the pipe until the bearing pops out.... I got one out this way (copper pipe too, not even steel!), but the other one I ended up knocking EVERY SINGLE roller out, and couldn't get it out. Rented a 3 jaw slide hammer puller, took 5 mins and got it out. Seals came out with the bearing.
putting in new bearings: just slip your new bearing in as far as it'll go, .5" maybe, then put your old bearing outside of it, put something flat across it (I used a piece of 2x8 wood), then just smacked the wood until the old bearing drove the new one in. Seal: put it in place, use your 2x8 and hammer the wood. Once it's flush you're done. Then I would put some axle oil on the bearings, and spin it with your finger to make sure it's well coated. mine were pre-greased, but clean on the inside, so I oiled them....
no special tools needed, pretty easy overall... Mine is a case from hell though, the cross shaft was a PITA to remove as well...
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 427
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From: B'ville, New York
Sonix and Keliente are correct about using the pipe to hit the inner ring of the bearings, at Summit or any other sponsor site you should be able to get the kit to do the axle bearings and make sure to get the seals, that will be the hardest part is not to damage the bearings and the seals getting them back on.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Awesome!...great tips guys...thanks for all the help...just finished it up today...made a world of difference...replaced pinion bearing, carrier bearings and axle bearings...I still have a vibration at 35 mph @ 1000 rpm ...possibly just the exaust?!?? Anyways, the ride is infinitely better!
