9 inch install
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
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9 inch install I just put a Moser 9 inch in my friends 01 trans am and i thought i would share on how it went and the little things you will need.
The rearend will require a new u-joint from napa $30. New sway bar mounts $100. The rearend also comes unpainted so it is a good idea to spray it with something or it will rust.
The rearend comes with no fluid and you have to go buy all of the nuts for the third member and caliper brackets. I had the traction control option on the axles which is machining on the axles to fit your rings off of your old axles onto the new ones. You will have to have the rings and the bearings pressed onto the new axles. Make sure you have them pressed on in the right order. Abs ring then the brake backing plate then the bearings then the metal lock. The driveshaft u joints were a pain in the *** and i had to have them pressed off bc i couldnt get them to budge even heating them with a torch. The moser 9 inch has the locker in it and i would have gone with a spool as the locker seems to act the same. The backing plates were a pain to get on and i had to bend a wrench to get to the nuts. The car is lowered and it seemed to keep the same ride height and it did not hit on bumps. Waiting on the weather to clear to see how much slicks will help on the car. But overall not to hard to install, but it is not that quiet of a rearend. Hope this will help anyone fixing to do the install. Ask any questions if you need help.
The rearend will require a new u-joint from napa $30. New sway bar mounts $100. The rearend also comes unpainted so it is a good idea to spray it with something or it will rust.
The rearend comes with no fluid and you have to go buy all of the nuts for the third member and caliper brackets. I had the traction control option on the axles which is machining on the axles to fit your rings off of your old axles onto the new ones. You will have to have the rings and the bearings pressed onto the new axles. Make sure you have them pressed on in the right order. Abs ring then the brake backing plate then the bearings then the metal lock. The driveshaft u joints were a pain in the *** and i had to have them pressed off bc i couldnt get them to budge even heating them with a torch. The moser 9 inch has the locker in it and i would have gone with a spool as the locker seems to act the same. The backing plates were a pain to get on and i had to bend a wrench to get to the nuts. The car is lowered and it seemed to keep the same ride height and it did not hit on bumps. Waiting on the weather to clear to see how much slicks will help on the car. But overall not to hard to install, but it is not that quiet of a rearend. Hope this will help anyone fixing to do the install. Ask any questions if you need help.
Nice write-up, it will help others.
For the sway bar mounts, we use Napa 3.00" exhaust U Bolts clamps. We just use the U Bolts, and slightly ream out the lower part of the factory sway bar mounts. This keeps the cost under $10.00.
To make for a quiet set of gears, we run the car for 10 minutes in gear at idle, up on jack stands, then allow it to cool down. We repeat this procedure for 4 more times. Bob
For the sway bar mounts, we use Napa 3.00" exhaust U Bolts clamps. We just use the U Bolts, and slightly ream out the lower part of the factory sway bar mounts. This keeps the cost under $10.00.
To make for a quiet set of gears, we run the car for 10 minutes in gear at idle, up on jack stands, then allow it to cool down. We repeat this procedure for 4 more times. Bob
I also had to press out the u-joints. I imagine most people will have to do so beings you have steel u-joint caps against the aluminum D/S. It took about 8 tons of pressure on the gauge in the press before they popped loose and still had to be pressed completely out. I also had to press the new caps in. I cleaned the inside of the ears of the D/S with WD-40. They went in a little easier. I pressed them in with a C-clamp. Also one thing I will note is I've heard some people have to make room under there for their torque arm. I didn't have this problem with mine.
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Originally Posted by WS6FirebirdTA00
what kind of torque arms pose an issue?
Others have gotten there jegs style to fit. But my car is lowered and that just to beating for me.
My 9" is shipping with the U Bolts, nuts for the center section, U Joint, Silicone and think thats it, big thanks goes out to Hawk. I opted to press my own reluctors, backing plates and bearings on. Hopefully the shop I use (Military MWR Auto Hobby Shop) has the correct fixtures for the press. Good info in your post man.
I have heard of the issues where the rear TA Mount hits the tunnel/floor, and a BFH is recommended, hopefully I wont have to do anymore clearancing.
I have heard of the issues where the rear TA Mount hits the tunnel/floor, and a BFH is recommended, hopefully I wont have to do anymore clearancing.
Originally Posted by smokeum99ta
Get out the BFH and beat till it fits.
Had to do a little of that to make my BMR Trak Pak work right with my Moser 9".
Originally Posted by CAT3
My 9" is shipping with the U Bolts, nuts for the center section, U Joint, Silicone and think thats it, big thanks goes out to Hawk. I opted to press my own reluctors, backing plates and bearings on. Hopefully the shop I use (Military MWR Auto Hobby Shop) has the correct fixtures for the press. Good info in your post man.
I have heard of the issues where the rear TA Mount hits the tunnel/floor, and a BFH is recommended, hopefully I wont have to do anymore clearancing.
I have heard of the issues where the rear TA Mount hits the tunnel/floor, and a BFH is recommended, hopefully I wont have to do anymore clearancing.
I am sure I will have the time while doing it. I thought it about after posting up earlier, since I havent seen pics of pressing the good off and on etc. Besides, a buddy Daniel is pretty good, and quick with his camera.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2005
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Its got a bmr torque arm and i looked under his car before we went to the track and the mounting bolt on the rearend had clearenced itself i little bit on the body. It went 11.5x at 118 cutting .5 off of his old time. Just to let people know it is worth it being able to run slicks and dump the crap out of it and hook.
I just did a 9"swap in my 96Z. What I found with my steel Driveshaft was that GM used some sort of epoxy to hold the u-joint in. Took a propane torch about 30 seconds to melt all of that crap out. Then three hits of the hammer and the u-joint popped right out. The Napa part is the 447 u-joint. Make sure to use the copper C-clips on the inside of the joint to keep it from "walking around" inside the driveshaft