RedLS1Killa

ive been thinking about putting 4.10 gears in my rearend. although ive heard that it would be better to just replace the whole thing since they are weak. if this is true im concerned about putting many bolt'ons and snapping my rearend any advice?

sickss228

iTrader: (27)

I can tell you from personal experiance that if you plan on modding your car and dragging it or even put drag radials out back save yourself the hassle and go buy a 12 bolt. I blew 3 rears before I got smart enough to buy the 12 bolt. With the time and money you would spend buying or rebuilding stock rears you could have got the 12. JMO though.

firefighter

uhmm yeah they are weak the same crap I got in my X. I gotta upgrade my rear before the LSx gets put in. Listen to sickss228 he's right.

cenTX-LS1

iTrader: (1)

410s properly installed will be ok at moderate power levels on street tires but the second you actually get traction (dr's) you can kiss em good bye in the stock rear.

blue01ta

iTrader: (4)

4.10s in a 10 bolt will make it even weaker than it already is. If you got a M6 get a 9".

Car RamRod

iTrader: (1)

yea buying a new rear hurts but it is definately a must. i just ordered a 9 inch from Exotic Performance Plus, and though it was a chunk of money, i relieved to not have to worry about my rear crapping out.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Got search? Or time to read a FAQ at the very top of the page?

LookinAtMyPlate

iTrader: (2)

well the 10 bolts a weird thing. theres guys on here who have made passes slicks and 4 10's and they still hold up. others make passes on d/r's and stock gears and they break.
10 bolt has a mind of its own.

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

I agree. It isn't the gears themselves that are weak that is WRONG WRONG WRONG WRONG! Can't say that enough. The problem with the 7 5/8 rearend found in the fbodies and the s-series trucks is that the case flexes. You wouldn't think a heavy chunk like that would but it does. A couple of thousands here or there of shift and it will tear up parts. I'm not a fan of killing a fly with a sludge hammer, (or as the rest of you would call wasting money) so here is what I would ask myself. What are your end goals? If you are looking for a larger HC package then yeah a 12 bolt or 9 inch might be the best route for you. If you are using it as a DD taking it to the strip once in awhile on drag radials then the 10 bolt would be fine given proper precautions. If you swap gears in it here is what I would do. Install a crush sleeve eliminator $40, weld the tubes free if you have a buddy that can weld decently, and install a TA cover $150. After that you should have cured the case flexing to the point where the carrier now becomes the weak link. Eatons, Auburns, and Zexels they all seem to break somewhere around the same output which is about 400 torque at the wheels with traction, some break before that some more than. Stock axles for the most part are stronger than the carrier. Now, I've heard good things about the Powertrax type lockers from the offroad guys, but I have no first hand knowledge of just how good they are in a fbody, but those things are about $400. That wouldn't seem like a wise investment to me unless it is a proven piece which I have no idea if it is or isn't. So ask yourself what your goals are and be honest about it. $2000 is alot of cash to cough up for something that doesn't really add any go to your ride (directly anyways) but it is a necessary evil if you are going to beat the ever loving **** out of it.

iMpoSStoR

i had a stock rear end on my car.. and i went 10.70 spraying 150 out of the hole with no problem and i did it twice.. and also like 4 times with a 100 shot of spray but still ran 11.30's.. and i had a eaton posi, richmond 3.73's.. and a TA cover ofcourse..no other modification were done to the stock rear.. and right now a friend of mine.. has a stroker on the stock differential running 10.10's and he's pushing way over 400ftlbs of torque on motor alone.. dont believe me click here or copy and paste.. its the white ss lt1... http://str1.com/v/triplethreat.wmv

MNR-0

Whats a crush sleeve eliminator? Same as shimming the spider gears 5 thou?

Whats the "tubes" and why weld them? Are you fusing them together or cutting them altogether?

Whats a TA cover? Trans-axle? Same as Harrop diff hat?

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

A crush sleeve eliminator is also known as a solid pinion spacer. Instead of using the generic crush sleeve, which is a round piece of metal that collapses under load to get the correct preload on the pinion bearings, a solid spacer and shims are used to get the correct preload. The crush sleeve has a tendancy to loosen over time and allow the pinion gear to "walk up" the ring gear, which decreases the life of the gears.

The axle tubes are the long tubes that extend out of the center section of the rear end. The point at wich the axle tubes intersect with the cetner section can be fully welded (rather than the puddle weld that holds it in place stock) all the way around the tubes to add a little strength.

"TA" manufacturers a 1/2" thick aluminum differential cover that replaces the stock cover. It is supposed to add strength to the case and help prevent case distortion.

RedLS1Killa

ok so lets say i jus wanted to keep my LS1 for strictly street racing...if I put some basic boltons (intake, headers, LS6 heads,exhaust...would i need to change the rearend or would it be ok?

camaromarc

As stated above the 10 bolts do have a mind of their own. But to help prevent damage you should start by maintaining your rearend. When was the last time you changed the fluid? I drove on my 10 bolt for 1 year stock, 2 years bolton mods & dragradials, 1 year cam, nitrous & dragradials. Until I snapped my drivers side axle. In the end I put over 50,000 miles on it before I had a problem. Luck maybe but I maintained it changing the fluid often. So if you just use some boltons and maintain it you will problaby be fine.

blue01ta

iTrader: (4)

If the gears themselves aren't weak, why does one set blow the rears apart more than any other?

camaromarc

Torque multiplication of lower gears.

Racafella13

iTrader: (2)

anyone know were i can get a crush sleeve eliminator?

Tom's_03SVT

put some slicks on, and find out for yourself.....

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

Thunder or anybody for that matter has them. Jegs, Summit they all have them. I think it's the same kit that's used on the 8.5 GM rearends as well.

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

What do you mean by one set??? Do you mean one particular ratio? If that is what you are getting at then yeah it's partially the 4.10's that do it, BUT they do it more because of what I mentioned earilier in the thread. Case distortion. Torque multiplicaiton IE gears will distort the case more. Puts more torque to the ground so it's gonna tear on the case more. Now, if you are saying Richmond gears tear up more than lets say strange gears then that's probiably the manufacture. But gears tearing up I don't think is a direct result of the ratios themselves but the flexing or distortion of the case causing the issue.