Oh well, $#/+ happens, but any advice? Tire shop stripped lug nut/stud
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Oh well, $#/+ happens, but any advice? Tire shop stripped lug nut/stud
So like the title says, the air ratchet happy kid at the tire place doesn't know who's fault it was that the stud and nut got destroyed while he was plowing it on there. They said bring it back and they'll fix it. So I bring it back today, and the guy is telling me (looked like he was right) that you have to move the rear-end housing out of the way to get the stud out of the hub, so I'll have to come back again.
By the sound of it, the kid who will be doing it has never done a repair of this type. Should I trust the kid to do it? I really don't want to pay someone else to do it, or do it myself, and shouldn't have to.
I'm wondering if I should just do it myself, but I don't have a lift, though I do have alot of tools and pretty good ability. Would I need an extra set of hands?
Also any tips that I can relay to the kid? Anything I or he should watch out for, like with the ABS or something? Can he screw up my rear end at all?
I couldn't believe, I actually watched the first kid use the air ratchet to screw on the plastic lug nut caps, big surprise they're scratched now. Big surprise too that he cross-threaded the nut. Some people just don't give a $#/+ about other people's stuff enough to be careful I guess.
By the sound of it, the kid who will be doing it has never done a repair of this type. Should I trust the kid to do it? I really don't want to pay someone else to do it, or do it myself, and shouldn't have to.
I'm wondering if I should just do it myself, but I don't have a lift, though I do have alot of tools and pretty good ability. Would I need an extra set of hands?
Also any tips that I can relay to the kid? Anything I or he should watch out for, like with the ABS or something? Can he screw up my rear end at all?
I couldn't believe, I actually watched the first kid use the air ratchet to screw on the plastic lug nut caps, big surprise they're scratched now. Big surprise too that he cross-threaded the nut. Some people just don't give a $#/+ about other people's stuff enough to be careful I guess.
#2
Shouldn't have to remove the entire housing. He will have to pull the rear cover, remove the blocking plate, or whatever its called, push the axle in, remove the c-clip, pull out the axle.
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of course u gotta get the car in the air(floor jack/stands are fine)
1. drain rearend oil
2 take tire off problem side
3 remove brake caliper and bracket as 1 or u can remove seperately if its easier for you. remove rotor
4. remove rearend cover
5. take paddle (8mm wrench) or pin out of carrier so u can get to the c-clips
6. check for abs sensor on backing plate (10mm bolt). if so take it off so u can push axle in enuff to get c-clip out.
6.pull axle . press old stud out and press new 1 in.
its not tuff job at all,,but a lil time consuming (maybe 1-2 hrs)and you will be out $$ for new stud and new gear oil. but,,like you said not your fault why should you fix it. go in and tell them u want sum1 with rearend experience to do this,if they dont have experience with doin this then tell them you will take it to a rearend/trans shop and give tire company the bill.
1. drain rearend oil
2 take tire off problem side
3 remove brake caliper and bracket as 1 or u can remove seperately if its easier for you. remove rotor
4. remove rearend cover
5. take paddle (8mm wrench) or pin out of carrier so u can get to the c-clips
6. check for abs sensor on backing plate (10mm bolt). if so take it off so u can push axle in enuff to get c-clip out.
6.pull axle . press old stud out and press new 1 in.
its not tuff job at all,,but a lil time consuming (maybe 1-2 hrs)and you will be out $$ for new stud and new gear oil. but,,like you said not your fault why should you fix it. go in and tell them u want sum1 with rearend experience to do this,if they dont have experience with doin this then tell them you will take it to a rearend/trans shop and give tire company the bill.
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Thanks Ski, I think I'll just do it myself, sounds pretty easy. It will be another good learning experience for me too, and I'll know how it got put back together and not done half-assed and carelessly like I know they have demonstrated they can be. Thanks again.
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They don't know what the F&%^ they're talking about
Dude, correct me if I'm wrong but you just need to replace a couple studs & lug nuts on the rear? If you have to open the pumpkin you're doing something wrong!
Jack up tire needing repair. Take off wheel, caliper mounting bracket, rotor. Pick up large hammer. Hit stud to be removed with said hammer. Stud will have enough clearance to come out the back of the hub, usually when at the bottom, and you shouldn't have to hit it hard enough to the point you'd be damaging anything. Slide new stud in. Here's where it was hard for me....
To get the new stud into the hub you have to somehow pull it into the hub. I used a spare lug nut and just used a lot of elbow grease turning it for a long time. It ruined the lug nut but didn't damage the face of the hub at all. I just kept turning and turning until the stud was seated in the hub pretty well. Put your stuff back together, make sure to retorque the lug nut(s) after a hundred or so miles, and you're good. No need to open the rear end, only tools needed are a jack, stand, hammer, and wrench. It's easier with air tools but definitely not necessary.
Abe
Jack up tire needing repair. Take off wheel, caliper mounting bracket, rotor. Pick up large hammer. Hit stud to be removed with said hammer. Stud will have enough clearance to come out the back of the hub, usually when at the bottom, and you shouldn't have to hit it hard enough to the point you'd be damaging anything. Slide new stud in. Here's where it was hard for me....
To get the new stud into the hub you have to somehow pull it into the hub. I used a spare lug nut and just used a lot of elbow grease turning it for a long time. It ruined the lug nut but didn't damage the face of the hub at all. I just kept turning and turning until the stud was seated in the hub pretty well. Put your stuff back together, make sure to retorque the lug nut(s) after a hundred or so miles, and you're good. No need to open the rear end, only tools needed are a jack, stand, hammer, and wrench. It's easier with air tools but definitely not necessary.
Abe
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Interesting...
I do have air tools, by the way.
Anyway, when he showed me, none of us thought to look for a position to rotate it to to get it out. It looked like it the stud would hit the abs ring though if I remember right. I'll have to take the wheel off tomorrow and look again.
I do have air tools, by the way.
Anyway, when he showed me, none of us thought to look for a position to rotate it to to get it out. It looked like it the stud would hit the abs ring though if I remember right. I'll have to take the wheel off tomorrow and look again.
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studs are like a $1.00 at autozone and very simple to install, just knock old one out with hammer, insert the new one and tighten down with old lug nut. Axle dose not have to be removed there is just enough room work with. My car had abs ring and wasnt a problem.
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Originally Posted by j99fbody
Axle dose not have to be removed there is just enough room work with.