Help adjusting the torque arm
07-19-2002, 01:57 AM
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Help adjusting the torque arm I know that for me (M6) I have to adjust it 2-3 degrees from the driveshaft. The question is, Do I adjust it toward the front or the back?
I just put a strange 12 bolt in with 3.73's and now I cant even launch from like 2500 RPM's when before I could launch at around 4500. I did not do anything to the torque arm when I put the 12 bolt and stronger DS in. Would this be the problem? Anyone have basic directions for this?
I just put a strange 12 bolt in with 3.73's and now I cant even launch from like 2500 RPM's when before I could launch at around 4500. I did not do anything to the torque arm when I put the 12 bolt and stronger DS in. Would this be the problem? Anyone have basic directions for this?
07-19-2002, 01:35 PM
#3
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Re: Help adjusting the torque arm I don't know what kind of TQ arm you have but with mine (a Random Tech) you make the adjustment at the rear (I just use a large adj. wrench.) I use an angle finder which is a guage that has a magnet on one side. The needle always points up so it tells you in degrees how far off from horizontal you are.
I'd use no more than 2.5 degrees for street use. Don't expect big gains in traction regardless of if you use 1 or 4.
Say, do you have a set of LCA relocators? What about a stiffer rear swaybar?
I'd use no more than 2.5 degrees for street use. Don't expect big gains in traction regardless of if you use 1 or 4.
Say, do you have a set of LCA relocators? What about a stiffer rear swaybar?
07-19-2002, 03:52 PM
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Re: Help adjusting the torque arm Hey, thanks colonel.
I have the whole BMR trak pak
TA
SFC's
LCA's
PHR
I also have their reloc brackets
I have the stock rear swaybar.
irrelevant but I just now installed the BMR k member and think its a really nice piece of work.
So do you think I should do 3 degrees from the driveshaft on a street car?
I have no clue where it is at right now. I guess the traction problems are from going to 3.73's from the stock 3.42's.
Do I need to adjust the TA toward the front or the back?
I have the whole BMR trak pak
TA
SFC's
LCA's
PHR
I also have their reloc brackets
I have the stock rear swaybar.
irrelevant but I just now installed the BMR k member and think its a really nice piece of work.
So do you think I should do 3 degrees from the driveshaft on a street car?
I have no clue where it is at right now. I guess the traction problems are from going to 3.73's from the stock 3.42's.
Do I need to adjust the TA toward the front or the back?
07-22-2002, 06:51 PM
#6
TECH Senior Member
Re: Help adjusting the torque arm When you say "front or back" it sounds like you're talking about adjusting the instant center, not the pinion angle. I'm not familiar with that TQ arm so I'm not sure if it gives you that ability but I was under the impression that the Madman arm was the only one with this feature.
To adjust the pinion angle you do what you have to do to make the pinion point downward (more angle) or upward (less angle.)
I'd set it on 1-2 for a street car or 3 for a track car. Either way, it's not going to make much difference.
Adjusting the instant center, however, can make a huge difference in how the suspension reacts. Move the instant center towards the rear of the car and the suspension will react quicker (it'll plant the tires harder, sooner.)
To adjust the pinion angle you do what you have to do to make the pinion point downward (more angle) or upward (less angle.)
I'd set it on 1-2 for a street car or 3 for a track car. Either way, it's not going to make much difference.
Adjusting the instant center, however, can make a huge difference in how the suspension reacts. Move the instant center towards the rear of the car and the suspension will react quicker (it'll plant the tires harder, sooner.)
07-23-2002, 10:57 PM
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Re: Help adjusting the torque arm I'll take a shot at this. The adjustable torque arm establishes the "working angle" between the differential and the driveshaft, so that the front of the pinion points 1-2 degrees down as compared to the driveshaft. Keep that in mind, and the Home Depot magnetic base indicator shows you what you are doing. It is not impossible to do it but the bolts have a lot of torque to move the arm around.
This is the theory: You want to have enough angle so the working angle stays on the negative side (pinion down) of zero degrees, so that the driveshaft-pinion combo stays loaded, and doesn't load and then unload as it goes through the zero angle. The pinion moves up as you accelerate. Keep in mind that more than 5 degrees (neg.) will bang as you accelerate. There is hypothetically less wear on the u-joints with 1-2 degrees negative. I set mine to 1 1/2 degrees but it has a poly front that will add more degrees neg as it wears out.
This is the theory: You want to have enough angle so the working angle stays on the negative side (pinion down) of zero degrees, so that the driveshaft-pinion combo stays loaded, and doesn't load and then unload as it goes through the zero angle. The pinion moves up as you accelerate. Keep in mind that more than 5 degrees (neg.) will bang as you accelerate. There is hypothetically less wear on the u-joints with 1-2 degrees negative. I set mine to 1 1/2 degrees but it has a poly front that will add more degrees neg as it wears out.
