sad/happy day for the catfssh
sad/happy day for the catfssh well i decided to cruise around some today since the weather was nice, car drove perfect. until it was time to go to work
im taking a right outa my street and i hear a loud snap/clunk in the rear of the car and the whole thing shuttered but kept driving so i pulled over and checked my lugs/axels etc and nothing.
does it again and i know exactly whats wrong...my 10 bolt rearend is taking a **** on me.
our mechanic friend came over and we are for sure its a problem within the rearend..could be somethin simple like with teh posi or it might be time to swap out for a new moser 12 bolt
any suggestions, 9'' or 12 bolt. any ideas identifying the problem?
im taking a right outa my street and i hear a loud snap/clunk in the rear of the car and the whole thing shuttered but kept driving so i pulled over and checked my lugs/axels etc and nothing.
does it again and i know exactly whats wrong...my 10 bolt rearend is taking a **** on me.
our mechanic friend came over and we are for sure its a problem within the rearend..could be somethin simple like with teh posi or it might be time to swap out for a new moser 12 bolt
any suggestions, 9'' or 12 bolt. any ideas identifying the problem?
Aww, and you didn't even get to break it in a cool way, like while drag racing. I bet that you have a torsen diff and it finally just pooped out on you. You could grab a diff from a used fbody and call it a day for now, or think about upgrading to a 12 bolt/9 inch.
Yeah, I would fix the stock rear and go to the track and intentionaly break it, much more gratifing that way.
I dont have either 12 bolt or 9" in my street car but of the two I reccomend the 9" if you plan on changing the gear ratio more than once because having a removable center section makes for easier gear swaps where youdont have to drop off the whole car or yank the entire axle out
I dont have either 12 bolt or 9" in my street car but of the two I reccomend the 9" if you plan on changing the gear ratio more than once because having a removable center section makes for easier gear swaps where youdont have to drop off the whole car or yank the entire axle out
Tech Resident
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,117
Likes: 3
From: Philly
by the dyno numbers in your sig, it's pretty safe to say you're an M6. simple, if you have traction control (4 channel ABS), get the 9 inch rear. if you don't have traction control (3 channel ABS), get the 12-bolt. this is assuming you only drive on the street. if you hit the track a lot, then get the 9 inch regardless. an M6 CAN break the 12-bolt, but it takes a lot of power and track use from what i hear. the 9 inch is nearly bulletproof. nearly.
screw the 10-bolt. if you were an automatic i'd say fix it, but if you're a manual you'll break it again.
screw the 10-bolt. if you were an automatic i'd say fix it, but if you're a manual you'll break it again.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by catfSSh
well i decided to cruise around some today since the weather was nice, car drove perfect. until it was time to go to work
im taking a right outa my street and i hear a loud snap/clunk in the rear of the car and the whole thing shuttered but kept driving so i pulled over and checked my lugs/axels etc and nothing.
does it again and i know exactly whats wrong...my 10 bolt rearend is taking a **** on me.
our mechanic friend came over and we are for sure its a problem within the rearend..could be somethin simple like with teh posi or it might be time to swap out for a new moser 12 bolt
any suggestions, 9'' or 12 bolt. any ideas identifying the problem?
im taking a right outa my street and i hear a loud snap/clunk in the rear of the car and the whole thing shuttered but kept driving so i pulled over and checked my lugs/axels etc and nothing.
does it again and i know exactly whats wrong...my 10 bolt rearend is taking a **** on me.
our mechanic friend came over and we are for sure its a problem within the rearend..could be somethin simple like with teh posi or it might be time to swap out for a new moser 12 bolt
any suggestions, 9'' or 12 bolt. any ideas identifying the problem?
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UPDATE:
today i took off the differential cover and insspected it.
first thing i noticed was a huge clump of metal shaving collecting on the magnet
rotated the gears some and we isolated the problem
a tooth on the spider gear snapped off when i took the turn, flung around and scratched the ring and pinion gears up to where they will make lots of noise if ran.
sooo
im gonna need a new posi unit.........any suggestions on a good one that will hold to some big power?
and i need a new set of ring and pinion: more than likely going with 4.10s or 3.73s
let me know some suggestions
anyone with a m6 fbody with 3.73s or 4.10s wanna let me get a feel for 'em
today i took off the differential cover and insspected it.
first thing i noticed was a huge clump of metal shaving collecting on the magnet
rotated the gears some and we isolated the problem
a tooth on the spider gear snapped off when i took the turn, flung around and scratched the ring and pinion gears up to where they will make lots of noise if ran.
sooo
im gonna need a new posi unit.........any suggestions on a good one that will hold to some big power?
and i need a new set of ring and pinion: more than likely going with 4.10s or 3.73s
let me know some suggestions
anyone with a m6 fbody with 3.73s or 4.10s wanna let me get a feel for 'em
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Originally Posted by LastLT1
damn dude, that sucks. sorry to hear. your first real mod i guess is going to have to be a rear end. not bad, just means you can beat on the car more and not worry about it breaking. i just got done putting kyles, NA$TY-TA, 12 bolt in my car. either way you go you'll be happy. we still need to get together sometime and get those pics with you me n travis.
im usually open whenever, just pm me on vadriven when you want
Originally Posted by catfSSh
UPDATE:
today i took off the differential cover and insspected it.
first thing i noticed was a huge clump of metal shaving collecting on the magnet
rotated the gears some and we isolated the problem
a tooth on the spider gear snapped off when i took the turn, flung around and scratched the ring and pinion gears up to where they will make lots of noise if ran.
sooo
im gonna need a new posi unit.........any suggestions on a good one that will hold to some big power?
and i need a new set of ring and pinion: more than likely going with 4.10s or 3.73s
let me know some suggestions
anyone with a m6 fbody with 3.73s or 4.10s wanna let me get a feel for 'em
today i took off the differential cover and insspected it.
first thing i noticed was a huge clump of metal shaving collecting on the magnet
rotated the gears some and we isolated the problem
a tooth on the spider gear snapped off when i took the turn, flung around and scratched the ring and pinion gears up to where they will make lots of noise if ran.
sooo
im gonna need a new posi unit.........any suggestions on a good one that will hold to some big power?
and i need a new set of ring and pinion: more than likely going with 4.10s or 3.73s
let me know some suggestions
anyone with a m6 fbody with 3.73s or 4.10s wanna let me get a feel for 'em
4.10s in an M6 car is fun - feels like they should have been in there stock. Probably get some whine out of them, and they're easier to break, but then isn't everything in the 10 bolt easy to break? 
12 Second Club
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 799
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh,PA
if i had an m6, i'd have at least 4.10s....they just go really good with 6 gears man. i've rode in a car with 4.30's and also 4.56's and just a suggestion but i probably wouldnt go higher then 4.30's
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk, VA
A good posi, gears, bearings, and install kit are going to run you about $800 or so + labor if you need a shop to do it. I would spring for a stronger rear, Dana 60, 9" or 12 bolt, in that order.
Originally Posted by bryced1
updates man, you get the fish runnin yet?
Originally Posted by Zepher
A good posi, gears, bearings, and install kit are going to run you about $800 or so + labor if you need a shop to do it. I would spring for a stronger rear, Dana 60, 9" or 12 bolt, in that order.
well... it did and thats why i couldnt say lets spend 2500 for a new rearend instead of 1480 for new posi/gears
Originally Posted by catfSSh
i get it back tommorow, then tuesday it goes to micar for the new hood and front fascia
i had to get a set of bfg kdw mounted on my rims so we had to run a spare for a few miles. i knew it would mess up something but my dad insisted it wouldnt so we made a deal that if it did, hed pay for repairs.
well... it did and thats why i couldnt say lets spend 2500 for a new rearend instead of 1480 for new posi/gears
i had to get a set of bfg kdw mounted on my rims so we had to run a spare for a few miles. i knew it would mess up something but my dad insisted it wouldnt so we made a deal that if it did, hed pay for repairs.
well... it did and thats why i couldnt say lets spend 2500 for a new rearend instead of 1480 for new posi/gears
So let me get this straight, you spent more then half of the cost of a Strange S60 (The cheapest and the strongest of the 3 options for an FBody) on rebuilding your 10 bolt that is garunteed to break yet again....so in the end, by the time you DO decide to get a upgraded rearend, like a Strange S60, you'll have spent almost $4,000 on your rearend alone....
where as if you had done it now, you would have spent $2,400 tops. that INCLUDES installation....less if you do it yourself, which isnt that hard to do since the rear comes in a cratem, ready to bolt in. 3 hr job...easy.
goodjob.
Originally Posted by alamantia
....I dont have either 12 bolt or 9" in my street car but of the two I reccomend the 9" if you plan on changing the gear ratio more than once because having a removable center section makes for easier gear swaps where youdont have to drop off the whole car or yank the entire axle out
My early mopars were so nice for that!!!