OKay, I put 85-140 RP in the rear end of my 01 WS6 and all has gone fine for the few K miles it was in there. For *****/giggles and because the S2000 guys have a weak rear-end just like we do, I posted up about it. Got some REALLY informative/detailed answers. They were VERY! negative. Here is what one poster had to say:


"RP = garbage.
I used RP in another vehicle I owned a few years back. I used the exact fluid you're asking about - and the results were horrible.
It was used in my car following an inspection of the rear-end and axle shaft end bearings (this vehicle had a rigid rear axle).
Once a fluid is removed from my vehicle, I don't re-use it (and I had run out of Amsoil). The dealership doing the inspection offered the RP, and I figured it couldn't hurt. The Amsoil that was in the axle came out extremely clean (after about 20,000 miles), which had been the trend since I began using Amsoil in the vehicle 60,000 miles earlier.
Anyway, the RP was installed and 9,000 miles later my rear axle had to be rebuilt.
All the bearings were in perfect condition when it was checked out prior to the installation of the RP. 9,000 miles later, all the bearings were trash. The RP came out almost black (with a purple tint).
I watched them do all the work and install the RP. I trust few mechanics and can't stand warranty work. Nevertheless, the job was above board and everything was done by the book.
When everything was said and done, RP did nothing to back their product and the dealership took the stance that it was a failure of the fluid and not their work that caused the problems - and did nothing to compensate me. The dealership stopped using and selling RP.
I had an independent axle, transmission, diff dealer rebuild my axle and they had nothing positive to say about RP products. I will only use Amsoil, or LE (for track days). "

Has anyone had ANY PROBLEM AT ALL! With Royal Purple in a stock Torsen (or any other) rear end? I am kinda nervous about it to be honest.

 

Hear Say IMO. I mean these are not Comp Cam "R" lifters for LT1's where there are countless stories of failure.

 

x2 on the hear say. Don't really know why you are using that weight anyway though?

 

I was on a team a few years back and we were on the RP deal and we didnt run the stuff..... Like I've always said Mobil 1...Good enough for F1 good enough for my car

 

I had a car over heat one time that had royal purple oil in it. It was an 01 V6 camaro with the typical shitty temp gauge. It had a cracked over flow tank and over heated. The lifters bled off because of the heat and started to rattle. That went on for a little under a minute as I watched the temp and oil pres (both perfect) and suddenly the temp gauge immediatly pegged, the car died before I could shut it off. Engine smelled like a foundry, and dipstick burned my hand when I grabbed it.

Two new head gaskets fixed the problem, i honestly think if it didnt have that oil in it it wouldnt have survived, thats the only conclusion I can draw. I took the motor apart about 2 months ago and there were obvious signs of heat, backs of bearings were purple/black.

For rear end fluid I use Trac-X and Coastal cheap ****. My 10 bolt has seen M/T's and nittos for 2 years, still kickin.

 

Hmm. As far as I can see I have NEVER witnessed or blown ANY mechanical component from a poor performing lubricant issue its always something else. Provided its the correct lube for application that is.

 

Exactly.

 

As long as you are running the right wieght and not running synthetic when you don't need to be, I don't see oil tearing a rear axle up in 9000 miles. My brother had the dealership service his 99 z28 one time. The dealership put their synthetic fluid in the rear and it started spinning peg about 2 months after that. Turned out that it had an Auburn in the rear................................Point is that it had to be the wrong fluid for that application to tear it up that quick.

 

okay i know it seems stupid but,


i USED to work at a honda dealership

s2gay's rear ends are actually okay, reasons why they go fubar on the owners is because "it's a honda, it'll take anything and i won't have to do anything to it" kinda policy. so, what i'm saying, the owners drive the car to crap and don't change the oil out in a timely manner. alot of AWD CRVs have alot of differntal clunking going around corners. why? because the clutches went out because they didn't change the oil......

 

Well I just had Royal Purple gear oil put in my rear today. I used 75w90 with the GM limited slip additive. This post does not make me feel to good. I hope everything will be OK.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...71#post6859671

 

I work for O'reilly's here in austin, so I might be biased but all I use is RP 75-90 rear fluid, Transmission fluid, and oil. I have never had a problem.

 

yeh why was you using 85-140??

 

yea um im putting 4.10s in my rearend this week and i bought 75w90 royal purple oil...should i put in or not....i thought this **** was good..i have RP in my tranny with a 8qt pan...i also have XPR RP oil in my motor...this **** good or wat...

 

Been there... done that... and have seen it happen. More than twice.

RP wasnt really differential friendly in a few applications. Specifically with use in ARB's... as it would dry up the umbrella seals within 90 days. Weird, I know...

FWIW, there is nothing wrong with using 85-140... or a straight 140 for any sake. In fact, I strongly recommend a straight 140 for use in performance differential builds... and if you are running on the ragged edge or have an endurance application... I even recommend an ISO 250wt.

 

I've been running dyno oil in all or my racecars and i've got 3 seasons on my 8 second 3rd gens axle. Not a single issue and the Pro gear will be reused again for the next few seasons. Wolf's Head 80W-90 is a really clean, high shock load oil.


Did a 6.96 @ 215 car last year and they ran Royal Purple, the pinion bearing oil was sludge. and the bottom of the housing was also sludged. 10.5W twin 88 turbo Hugger Orange Camaro.

 

Hmm...I am about to change gears as well, planning on installing a gear package from Thunder Racing....should I pick the Red Line oil over the Royal Purple, or does that suck too?

 

Royal Purple is good ****. Use the right weight. This thread sucks and is based on nothing but a shitty 10 bolt that just happened to finally let go.

 

Ask 3 more people and see what you get. I only wish you had left the Ammsoil in it. As for the weight, I'd like to see proof on that causing any failure. I tend to agree with the fluid not being the cause unless it's never changed. But I guess I can't argue with it coming out discolored, but that may also be just an indicator of the failed parts contaminating the fluid.

 

Uhm... yeah.

That... and 18+ years of doing oil analysis, specifically differential and driveline related, has nothing to do with forming a fact based opinion. Anyway... what is the 'right weight'?



I wouldnt use either... unless you plan on replacing it regularly.

Back in the days of The Corvette Challenge series, we were sponsored by RedLine... which was just about the time they became a public business... and we got truck loads of their stuff all the time. Some of their products are the only things I will use, for example their power steering fluid; there is no better, but their differential oils are far from anything I would ever use. Good cold flow properties... but the base is too thin for elevated temperature use, in my opinion. I have also been sponsered by Royal Purple in some other endeavors... and have considerable experience with their product line as well.

My favorties for use in differentials are Schaffer, Torco, and LE. The parrifin base of Schaffer has proven to be the best differential lube I have found and used so far... with Torco in a close second.

Not bagging on Royal Purple at all... their engine oils and some other products are damn good... but not their differential efforts.