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Stock 10 bolt precautions

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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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Default Stock 10 bolt precautions

Hey I know these rear ends suck, and I just bought a set of Mickey T's. So I was wondering what precautions there are, including fluids, that I can do in order to save mine as long as possible.

I.E. what types of fluids, what kind of additives (if any), anything.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 09:59 PM
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I have heard weld up the axle tubes and put on a stud girdle for a start... been working on mine for a few years now...
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 5.7iroc-02ws6
I have heard weld up the axle tubes and put on a stud girdle for a start... been working on mine for a few years now...
Woah. I was thinking like a special fluid or something. What is the stud girdle?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeD101898
Woah. I was thinking like a special fluid or something. What is the stud girdle?
It is a very rigid gear/differential cover designed to lessen the folding movement between the axles under extreme torque. You can see one by going to ebaymotors and searching for keywords "axle girdle".

Things you already know:
To extend the life of your 10 bolt gearset, axles and differential you need to avoid wheel hop. Hard snapping shifts with a manual tranny is a killer on any rear end. That you have MT drag tires is going to shorten the life for your axle but that is the price you pay for spectacular launches.
Things you might not already know:
I guess there are gear oils on the market that claim to absorb driveline shock better than others but from all else I've read, all the oils are pretty much the same and the use of a synthetic in the rear end has little benefit. If you still have the Auburn that came in the 98s then a synthetic is NOT recommended by the manufacturer. Also, don't use the friction modifier unless you experience chatter. The modifier will not protect your axle; it reduces the slipping so the cone can engage more readily.

Here's the ultimate axle upgrade:

Last edited by 01Z28M6; Jun 16, 2007 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Z28M6
If you still have the Auburn that came in the 98s then a synthetic is NOT recommended by the manufacturer.

I still have the stock rear end in a 98, so yes I do I'm sure. So no synthetic? Why is that different in 98's?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:32 PM
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Synthetics are so slippery that they allow for excessive slipping on the cone and reduce the effectiveness of the limited slip operation.

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/faq/#q2
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Z28M6
Synthetics are so slippery that they allow for excessive slipping on the cone and reduce the effectiveness of the limited slip operation.

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/faq/#q2

Makes sense. And which rear end is that in the pic^^^?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:48 PM
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That is a ford 9" with the rear support brace.

Brian
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:50 PM
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I don't know. It's one of those pictures from a thread that left me so impressed that I saved it for a moment like this. It is probably a one off custom fab by some very talented welder/builder. You can see how it fortifies every place that could possibly flex under load.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 00PewterSS
That is a ford 9" with the rear support brace.

Brian
I would think you're right because it has to have a 3rd member.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 12:09 AM
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Looks sweet whatever it is. Until I have more money though I'll have to figure out tips and tricks to make this pos 10 bolt work.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 03:03 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/510589-when-will-my-10-bolt-break.html
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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^^^ Thank you for bringing me back to reality.
I was never going to dump more than $20-40 in this rear end, but just figured there might be some kind fluid, or additive to help.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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for those (like me) without the dough for a new 9" can still find them in junk yards and farms. look for ford trucks, lincolns, rusty ole' torinos and the like from the 70's. some bronco and vans too. i am getting a good 9" from a guy i work with. the only catch is i have to take the truck too. complete with the tree growing through the bed.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeD101898
^^^ Thank you for bringing me back to reality.
I was never going to dump more than $20-40 in this rear end, but just figured there might be some kind fluid, or additive to help.
Unfortunately, no. When it's going to break, it's going to break.
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LSXNV
for those (like me) without the dough for a new 9" can still find them in junk yards and farms. look for ford trucks, lincolns, rusty ole' torinos and the like from the 70's. some bronco and vans too. i am getting a good 9" from a guy i work with. the only catch is i have to take the truck too. complete with the tree growing through the bed.
Is that the same (basically) as getting a new one? Don't you have to order them specifically for our fbodies?

If I went this route would I need the BFH mod in order for it to fit? Then would I need special axles, etc in order to make it work?
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Old Jun 17, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeD101898
Is that the same (basically) as getting a new one? Don't you have to order them specifically for our fbodies?

If I went this route would I need the BFH mod in order for it to fit? Then would I need special axles, etc in order to make it work?
You'd need a lot more than a BFH, lol. I think a lot of people buy a junkyard 9 inch/12 bolt in hopes of saving some money, but by the time they finish with all the fab they might as well have bought a new one made specifically for the f-bod. For starters, the ford 9 inch has no torque arm...that's probably the biggest thing to overcome.
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