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Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics

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Old 11-10-2008, 10:29 PM
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Eric is going to meet me in St louis with mine this saturday weather permitting. Great guy!
Old 11-11-2008, 07:45 PM
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hey did anyone have any vibration issues with your 9 inch after install? i got a bad driveline vibration at 80+ mph sounds like a bad bearing almost it makes a grinding noise and shakes the hole car.
Old 11-11-2008, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP Firehawk
hey did anyone have any vibration issues with your 9 inch after install? i got a bad driveline vibration at 80+ mph sounds like a bad bearing almost it makes a grinding noise and shakes the hole car.

Could it be a axle bearing...did you lube it before you put the axle in????
Old 11-11-2008, 08:33 PM
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I won't have mine driveable for a couple of months so I won't be able to compare. The bearings come full of assy grease already. No need to lube them up. Did you have any issues installing them? Did you verify your driveshaft length before installing?
Old 11-11-2008, 08:46 PM
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Question Just Curious...

Originally Posted by ssvert99
sorry about your feelings, but after 3 or more phone calls a day for 2 weeks about noises that come and go, and a axle bearing that i dont have any control over fails, and a abs light that i asked you to have scan checked for diagnosis to help you fix...over the telephone, this was a little overwhelming to say the least. if i had to do this for everyone then no one would ever get a rearend! one thing i can not do for you is come to your location and babysit your installation to make sure everything is installed properly, the gear oil level is correct, and the abs harness is not damaged during the swap, or you did the proper gear break-in procedure that i preech before you drove it home at interstate speeds from the install shop.
you have a 4 channel abs car that has GM brakes, GM sensors, factory axle dimensions. the only thing in this not GM is the reluctor wheels that are on the axles, which Moser manufactures as a replacement. there should be no problems with any of this so i asked you have it diagnosed to find a possible area to look at and i never got a reply from you about this. so how did i refuse to fix the abs problem? is it even still there? wtf?
it took a minute, but i did refund you money for the axle bearing and labor that you had replaced. out of all the rearends sold, i have never had a tapered street bearing fail until yours. why did it fail? i still wonder about this, but i cant control the break-in procedure you do. maybe just bad luck... who knows.
in the end its all good i hope. i'm sorry about the bad experience, or bad luck maybe, but i did not push you off as another has stated. i have never pushed off any of my customers or bad after sale service... and i never will.
i am a small shop and cannot afford to get a bad rap about my work or products. there are always issues with suppliers and things that come up in this business... things i have no control over. the things i do have control over is the finished product. while i can never please everyone, the 99 percent that are speaks for itself.
Originally Posted by ssvert99
..."i am a small shop and cannot afford to get a bad rap"...
I'd like to know if you insist on getting what you pay for (i'd guess a resounding yes)? Seems to me that most everyone here (ATLSS included) believes you manufacture one hell of a product.

That said, why would you ever say what you've said here? I know in my business, if we don't deliver what we promise the customer demands their money back or we make it right at all costs. And if we don't, they NEVER come back and the words they spread are decremental to growing our business.

Chalk it up to bad karma or whatever but talking **** to anyone on a public forum as a business owner is bad news IMHO.

Happy Motorin' !!
Old 11-11-2008, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SLP Firehawk
hey did anyone have any vibration issues with your 9 inch after install? i got a bad driveline vibration at 80+ mph sounds like a bad bearing almost it makes a grinding noise and shakes the hole car.
Do you have your pinion angle set right?
Old 11-11-2008, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeMack
Do you have your pinion angle set right?
well i am not 100 percent sure about that because its rediculously hard to figure out my pinion on the ground the meter keeps telling me one thing and then i look at it and its something different... i'm going to try a couple of things tomrrow to monkey around with it hopfully i find the problem
Old 11-12-2008, 06:32 AM
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Put the car up on jack stands level. Rear stands should be under the axle tubes to load the suspension.

If the u-joint angles are not equal or +/- 2 degrees then you get vibes. Get a magnetic base angle finder at a hardware or big box store to check if that is not what you already have. Adjusting the TA should resolve the problem. Only other thing might be the drive shaft.
Old 11-12-2008, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Put the car up on jack stands level. Rear stands should be under the axle tubes to load the suspension.

If the u-joint angles are not equal or +/- 2 degrees then you get vibes. Get a magnetic base angle finder at a hardware or big box store to check if that is not what you already have. Adjusting the TA should resolve the problem. Only other thing might be the drive shaft.
ok i am going to try that this morning but like i said its hard as hell to get an accurate measurment from that gauge because of my exhaust being in the way. i'm going to try and eliminate things one by one. to bad i didn't hang on to my aluminum driveshaft alittle longer
Old 11-12-2008, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Sideways240sx
I could be off with my sizes here. but i know this is true.

Gm factory shocks are 7/16 bolt i believe. Eric makes the hole this size. I believe alot of aftermarket shocks are 1/2. So you have to open the hole up a little for aftermakrter shocks. Very common on these cars. Again i know this happens, just not sure on sizes.


Chris
Other way around, I believe. Factory shock bolts are 1/2". The housings are made for aftermarket shocks.
Old 11-12-2008, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Oh, one more thing. What direction did you clock the rear springs? Or does it even matter. I have the bottom coil where it ends facing the 6'oclock position from veiwing housing from the rear.
Service manual says the cut end of the coil on the bottom of the spring needs to face towards the front of the car. Don't know why this would matter, but that's what it says.
Old 11-12-2008, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by ski23
SO, is anyone runnin the short torque arm with loop and true duals? if so post pics. hows the clearence? Im currently running a y-pipe setup but, would like to go duals when she gets cammed. Eric, chime in if ya get time. Im close to finally completing my order lol.
i do have a crossmember/ds loop available for a true duals setup. it was designed around the TSP setup, but i'm sure there is plenty of room for any type of custom exhaust as well. it is the same price as all the others, just need to specify dual exhaust when ordering.
Old 11-12-2008, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Sideways240sx
I could be off with my sizes here. but i know this is true.

Gm factory shocks are 7/16 bolt i believe. Eric makes the hole this size. I believe alot of aftermarket shocks are 1/2. So you have to open the hole up a little for aftermakrter shocks. Very common on these cars. Again i know this happens, just not sure on sizes.


Chris

here's the deal...

the factory hole on the shock mount is 14mm(9/16"). *most* of the aftermarket shocks are 1/2"(13mm). the holes on my shock mounts are set at 1/2". if you have a stock type setup with the bigger bolt size all you have to do is ream the hole slightly.
i did this due to the fact that a majority of the people that are needing a better rearend are usually gonna have the aftermarket shocks as well. a factory size hole with a smaller size fastener will allow for sloppy clearance with the fastener. all the clearances are set tight on my setups. you can always make a hole bigger... it's real hard to make it smaller.
Old 11-12-2008, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmyz
I'd like to know if you insist on getting what you pay for (i'd guess a resounding yes)? Seems to me that most everyone here (ATLSS included) believes you manufacture one hell of a product.

That said, why would you ever say what you've said here? I know in my business, if we don't deliver what we promise the customer demands their money back or we make it right at all costs. And if we don't, they NEVER come back and the words they spread are decremental to growing our business.

Chalk it up to bad karma or whatever but talking **** to anyone on a public forum as a business owner is bad news IMHO.

Happy Motorin' !!

sorry bro... not talking any **** here. it is simply the truth and the way it is. and we will leave it at that.
Old 11-12-2008, 11:45 AM
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Eric, do you have a DS safety loop for your long T/A? I thought I read awhile back that you were working on one.
Old 11-12-2008, 12:47 PM
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the dssl for the long t/a will be available by the end of the year... we have hand built one and are working out the production end of the deal with the cnc. the people that have ordered one with a rearend will be the first to recieve them.
Old 11-12-2008, 04:11 PM
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Sounds good , will this be a bolt on part and do you have a price on this yet?

Thanks for the info!

Mike G.
Old 11-12-2008, 05:44 PM
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My housing just showed up! Quality and workmanship is just great. Cant wait to get it under the car.

Also interested in DSSL but may have to build my own by the time its ready.
Old 11-12-2008, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MrElectric03
Also interested in DSSL
x2 or x3 or whatever.

I've bought 2 loops so far (BMR and Lakewood) and neither one fits with the Midwest long torque arm setup.
Old 11-12-2008, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by supernaturalta
x2 or x3 or whatever.

I've bought 2 loops so far (BMR and Lakewood) and neither one fits with the Midwest long torque arm setup.
When I bought the lakewood it wouldnt even fit with my stock TA...


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