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Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics

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Old 11-08-2008, 10:40 AM
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The longer one has better clearance. The y-pipe actually fits below the mount with no banging issues and you can go from y-pipe setup to duals with no problem. With the shorter arm, it uses the rear most mount and the y-pipe goes thru the mount, then you have issues with clearance especially if your running a loop. I gotta wait it out for a driveshaft loop
Old 11-08-2008, 02:26 PM
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I have the short arm and mount w/ loop and there is plenty of room for a 3" pipe. Not even close to having issues here. Not even close to banging. Lets be fair here.

Maybe you have something different than I do.
Old 11-08-2008, 04:32 PM
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I have the long T/A and was wondering when a D/S safety loop will be available? With winter closing in Im in no hurry, but would like to have one before spring.
Old 11-08-2008, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
I have the short arm and mount w/ loop and there is plenty of room for a 3" pipe. Not even close to having issues here. Not even close to banging. Lets be fair here.

Maybe you have something different than I do.
I currently have a UMI adj. torque arm with loop. I have about 1/8" of clearance on top and bottom of exhaust where it comes near the mount and loop. not bad but im wanting to go duals and I dont think I can with this mount. My uncle just installed BMR adj. torque arm and it tucks beuatiful and the exhaust runs below the mount
Old 11-08-2008, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ski23
I currently have a UMI adj. torque arm with loop. I have about 1/8" of clearance on top and bottom of exhaust where it comes near the mount and loop. not bad but im wanting to go duals and I dont think I can with this mount. My uncle just installed BMR adj. torque arm and it tucks beuatiful and the exhaust runs below the mount
Neither of which matter here because eric makes, and supplies his own chromoly trq arm with his rear ends. You can get a long trq arm, or a short one with mount, and dsl. Your pick. Both are great, and my midwest trq arm has to be half the weigh my umi one was.


Chris
Old 11-09-2008, 08:35 AM
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Again the Midwest has much more room that the UMI and Spohn TA. And yes is much lighter.
Old 11-09-2008, 02:36 PM
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I was trying to print the pics for the axle bearings on page 50 but they are not there anymore. Eric can you post them back up? Thanks.
Old 11-09-2008, 06:51 PM
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Or if anyone has done this themselves let me know how you did it. Don't have them in hand yet but trying to plan for it. Do the bearings get pressed on all the way till you can't go anymore? Did you use locktite?
Old 11-09-2008, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Or if anyone has done this themselves let me know how you did it. Don't have them in hand yet but trying to plan for it. Do the bearings get pressed on all the way till you can't go anymore? Did you use locktite?
One thing you could do besides pressing them on is, if these are the tapered bearings, is heat them up in a george foreman grill for 10 min. then they will slide right on all the way down, other then that I would assume they would go down all the way till they stop. No need for locktite either.
Old 11-09-2008, 07:18 PM
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Using a press isn't the problem I just know you usually get one shot at it. Loctite idea was because the bearings are what keep the axles in the housing. Thought maybe a little green locktite would be a safety net?? And yes they are the tapered bearings. Also, would it be alright to use a bearing splitter to press the bearings on?? By that I mean have the axle with the flange facing up and have the bearing splitter on the bottom side of the bearing and press on the face of the flange. Thanks again for the help.
Old 11-09-2008, 07:28 PM
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I don't see why it wouldn't work with the bearing splitter on the bottom, just go easy, again the locktite is your call but I would think you would not need it considering the bearing is pressed on, don't really think it's going anywhere once you bolt it to the housing. Another thing too is to just make sure you coat the bearing with lube before you bolt the axle up.
Old 11-09-2008, 07:38 PM
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Thank you. I will be sure to coat the bearing as well.
Old 11-10-2008, 05:47 PM
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Received the housing package today. I am in the middle of the install as we speak. Everything looks great. Fed Ex had a nice hole in the box were it bolts the housing in but it looked ok. I am waiting for my drill to charge as I need to go back and clean all the open bolt holes back up because it would seem after powder coating it took up some of the space and the shock bolts are not even close to going thru. Other than that I will get my bearings tomorrow so I will be able to have this finished by the end of the week. I will get pics once done. Thanks guys.
Old 11-10-2008, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Received the housing package today. I am in the middle of the install as we speak. Everything looks great. Fed Ex had a nice hole in the box were it bolts the housing in but it looked ok. I am waiting for my drill to charge as I need to go back and clean all the open bolt holes back up because it would seem after powder coating it took up some of the space and the shock bolts are not even close to going thru. Other than that I will get my bearings tomorrow so I will be able to have this finished by the end of the week. I will get pics once done. Thanks guys.
Sweet...hope mine arrives soon.
Old 11-10-2008, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Received the housing package today. I am in the middle of the install as we speak. Everything looks great. Fed Ex had a nice hole in the box were it bolts the housing in but it looked ok. I am waiting for my drill to charge as I need to go back and clean all the open bolt holes back up because it would seem after powder coating it took up some of the space and the shock bolts are not even close to going thru. Other than that I will get my bearings tomorrow so I will be able to have this finished by the end of the week. I will get pics once done. Thanks guys.
I could be off with my sizes here. but i know this is true.

Gm factory shocks are 7/16 bolt i believe. Eric makes the hole this size. I believe alot of aftermarket shocks are 1/2. So you have to open the hole up a little for aftermakrter shocks. Very common on these cars. Again i know this happens, just not sure on sizes.


Chris
Old 11-10-2008, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MrElectric03
Sweet...hope mine arrives soon.
Me too.........
Old 11-10-2008, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sideways240sx
I could be off with my sizes here. but i know this is true.

Gm factory shocks are 7/16 bolt i believe. Eric makes the hole this size. I believe alot of aftermarket shocks are 1/2. So you have to open the hole up a little for aftermakrter shocks. Very common on these cars. Again i know this happens, just not sure on sizes.


Chris
Thing is I am using factory shocks for now. No big deal, easy fix. I am just looking forward to getting the rest done. The housing is in and waiting center section and axles.
Old 11-10-2008, 08:36 PM
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Oh, one more thing. What direction did you clock the rear springs? Or does it even matter. I have the bottom coil where it ends facing the 6'oclock position from veiwing housing from the rear.
Old 11-10-2008, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 03 BUSA
Oh, one more thing. What direction did you clock the rear springs? Or does it even matter. I have the bottom coil where it ends facing the 6'oclock position from veiwing housing from the rear.
Don't think that really matter at all.
Old 11-10-2008, 09:50 PM
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SO, is anyone runnin the short torque arm with loop and true duals? if so post pics. hows the clearence? Im currently running a y-pipe setup but, would like to go duals when she gets cammed. Eric, chime in if ya get time. Im close to finally completing my order lol.

Last edited by ski23; 11-11-2008 at 03:53 PM.


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