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Midwest Chassis & Performance fab rearends... new pics

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Old 12-22-2009, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
how much for just a housing with ta?
housing and torque arm package with no other options start at 1250.00 shipped.
includes 4 hole relocator style lca brackets, drain plug, sway bar mounts, brake line clips, brake hose and e-brake cable brackets(98-02), double adjustable chromemoly torque arm and crossmember to fit your application in either trans crossmember mounted or tunnel mounted versions.
lots of options on these rearends including backbrace, 3 or 4ch abs setups, powdercoating, etc, just to name a few.
Old 12-22-2009, 09:08 AM
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Anybody have any pictures of one of Eric's rear ends installed with his torque arm up where the torque arm mounts to the crossmember? I have one and I want to make sure that I did it correctly. The little two arm bracket where the torque arm mounts is pointing straight up is the way I did it, is this correct or is it suppose to point back towards the rear end? Also how did you guys square up the rear end to make sure the rear end is going straight down the track?

Also I got the LCA's and Panhard rod from Eric and they are the solid link race ones without bushings, it makes a lot of noise because of this, not whining noise but just rear end noise from the metal on metal links I guess. Anyway to fix this?

Last edited by tording99Z28; 12-22-2009 at 09:22 AM.
Old 12-22-2009, 09:21 AM
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Yeah the link should be straight up. I just made sure the LCA's were the same length as the stock ones before I put them on and then adjusted from there, the locker is pretty touchy though so it was a good indicator of how straight everything was.
Old 12-22-2009, 09:25 AM
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My car has a slight pull to the right, I have had an alignment, swapped the wheels from right to left and nothing seems to fix it. Its not the brakes I have checked them and it did start about the same time I installed the rear end. The only thing I can think is I don't have the rear end square and its causing the car to pull right. I did the same thing as you when I installed the rear end initially though.
Old 12-22-2009, 09:59 AM
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Maybe try setting the passenger side back a little and see what happens. Or take a measurement and see what it looks like.
Old 12-22-2009, 10:03 AM
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Well I want to measure but I don't know what to measure from. You need 2 points on the car somewhere that would be identical lengths on both sides of the car to check for trueness.
Old 12-22-2009, 12:00 PM
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Yeah I don't remember exactly what I measured from, maybe the frame rails? I would think an alignment shop would be able to get it square if you can find someone willing to work with all the adjustable rear stuff.
Old 12-22-2009, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by NSSANE02
Yeah I don't remember exactly what I measured from, maybe the frame rails? I would think an alignment shop would be able to get it square if you can find someone willing to work with all the adjustable rear stuff.
Yeah thats my next step probably. I got a buddy that works at a shop that is pretty knowledgeable.
Old 12-22-2009, 01:54 PM
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You said you had an alignment once, was it digital? If not, that's what I'd try and find. Hunter's digital alignment machine (what the family uses) and software takes measurements of your car and how bad it is out of alignment, then guides the tech to put it within tolerances. After it's done, it gives you a print out of the before and after measurements to show you that it's good and in the green. Can't be screwed with to cheat you either..
Old 12-29-2009, 11:01 AM
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best thing to do is just get everything setup real close as far as pinion angle and torque arm adjustments, and then have a basic laser 4 wheel alignment done. the newer laser machines will allow for complete adjustments and are easy to do, especially if the tech is knowledgeable at all. they should not have any problems setting the rear wheelbase, track centering, and thrust angle being you have adjustable lcas and phb.
Old 01-10-2010, 11:09 AM
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For anyone looking at purchasing a MWC 9" package (which I highly recommend!), I can save you a few bucks on a axle/spool/brake package. It was purchased through Eric at Midwest Chassis and has 288 miles on it. Basically brand new.
What you get is for a stock length MWC Fab 9".....
Moser Custom Alloy 35 spline axles package with light weight Star Flanges and the Gundrilled options.
ARP 3.5" wheelstuds 1/2" screw in style.
Moser steel 35 spline spool
New GM LS1 rear caliper brackets pressed on with new Moser bearings.
All the hard work is done, just slide them and you are ready to go.
Still over 9 years left on the axle warranty.
$700 plus shipping.



Old 01-10-2010, 02:53 PM
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Only if it wasnt a spool..damn!
Old 01-10-2010, 02:58 PM
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isn't the gun drilled option more track oriented an not for the street cars? so all you need is just the housing to complete this?
Old 01-11-2010, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 223HAWK
Only if it wasnt a spool..damn!
I will knock $150 off without the spool.

Originally Posted by airforcemanss
isn't the gun drilled option more track oriented an not for the street cars? so all you need is just the housing to complete this?
These will be fine on the street. This is what I had them for the, street/strip setup.
All you need is the housing/torque arm package from MWC and a center section with gears of your choice, and you will have your bullet proof Midwest Chassis Fab 9".
Old 01-17-2010, 11:41 PM
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Not sure if anybody has thrown this out there or not. I installed my rear last year which by the way is a damn nice product and Eric is a great guy to deal with. Mine narrowed three inches, 35 spline axles, aluminum center, spool, 4.30's, backbraced, powdercoated, and fill cap weighed in at 169 lbs. That was with backing plates installed and brake lines but no brakes calipers or fluid. Just thought I would share as I couldn't find a solid answer when I ordered one. I did not weigh my stock rear but I believe they are in the upper 150's from what I've read?

Just thought I would post this for any curious people.

Thanks again Eric!!

I'm sure I will be ordering more stuff from ya soon.......... Taxes permitting
Old 02-03-2010, 09:48 AM
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the gundrilling of the axles is recommended for track only type cars, but i have sold them to people that are running on the street as well. as far as lightweight, you would be better off to spend your money on lighter brakes or wheels and tires as it will be more of a loss in rotational weight. the farther from center you go the better off you are on performance gains from rotational weight loss.
Old 02-03-2010, 11:33 AM
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^^^ Eric will be calling you soon, come on tax refund, Weird thing is i spent my last year tax return on a 9 inch, I am now changeing to Eric housing. O and Eric if you have a pic of the TSP true dual or simialar with your TA i would like to see, so if you can pm some pics that would be great.
Old 02-03-2010, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Zmg00camaross
^^^ Eric will be calling you soon, come on tax refund, Weird thing is i spent my last year tax return on a 9 inch, I am now changeing to Eric housing. O and Eric if you have a pic of the TSP true dual or simialar with your TA i would like to see, so if you can pm some pics that would be great.

Old 02-03-2010, 05:39 PM
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how much just for a bare housing?
Old 02-03-2010, 05:44 PM
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Over the axle 3" mandrel stainless duals with a watts link:



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