Stock Clutch
Soon. I had my clutch replaced at 10K miles by the dealer but my clutch pedal was getting stuck to the floor at the track. A new clutch never fixed it. I sold the car with a little over 23K miles and was making 423 rwhp. The hydraulics suck.
Three things in this thread, none are related.
Power level, sticking clutch pedal, hydraulic system.
A new stock clutch didn't help because it uses the same crap pressure plate setup. An aftermarket clutch and plate will alleviate the sticking pedal. Nothing to do with power or hydraulics.
Yes, I know certain corvette "gurus" (lol) like to say clutch dust gets into the slave cylinder (bwahahahaaaa) and makes the pedal stick, uh, no. Its only a poor design exposed at high RPMs.
Hydraulic clutches are awesome.
Power level, sticking clutch pedal, hydraulic system.
A new stock clutch didn't help because it uses the same crap pressure plate setup. An aftermarket clutch and plate will alleviate the sticking pedal. Nothing to do with power or hydraulics.
Yes, I know certain corvette "gurus" (lol) like to say clutch dust gets into the slave cylinder (bwahahahaaaa) and makes the pedal stick, uh, no. Its only a poor design exposed at high RPMs.
Hydraulic clutches are awesome.
That's also false, a aftermarket clutch isn't going to fix the pedal issue, it actually DOES have to do with the hydraulic release bearing setup. I blew one out on a stock clutch and one one a mcloed twin disk which actually forced me to send my mcloed back for re surfacing and new disk.
Both stock and aftermarket gave me issues with a sticking pedal, the hydraulic fluid doesn't return fast enough to the release bearing under fast shifts.
You have two options, one is a bandage and one is the correct fix.
Lingerfelter sells a return spring you can bolt on your pedal
Or you can fix it right with the billet mcloed release bearing setup. It's a really nice piece, has braided lines, remote bleeder and a quick connect fitting. Also I suggest getting a small resivor off a quad or street bike rear brake setup and make it a seperate resivor as the stock setup has the clutch and brakes on one system and if you do like me and blow the stock release bearing apart you also lose your brakes.
Hope this adds some info to your search
Both stock and aftermarket gave me issues with a sticking pedal, the hydraulic fluid doesn't return fast enough to the release bearing under fast shifts.
You have two options, one is a bandage and one is the correct fix.
Lingerfelter sells a return spring you can bolt on your pedal
Or you can fix it right with the billet mcloed release bearing setup. It's a really nice piece, has braided lines, remote bleeder and a quick connect fitting. Also I suggest getting a small resivor off a quad or street bike rear brake setup and make it a seperate resivor as the stock setup has the clutch and brakes on one system and if you do like me and blow the stock release bearing apart you also lose your brakes.
Hope this adds some info to your search
That's also false, a aftermarket clutch isn't going to fix the pedal issue, it actually DOES have to do with the hydraulic release bearing setup. I blew one out on a stock clutch and one one a mcloed twin disk which actually forced me to send my mcloed back for re surfacing and new disk.
Both stock and aftermarket gave me issues with a sticking pedal, the hydraulic fluid doesn't return fast enough to the release bearing under fast shifts.
You have two options, one is a bandage and one is the correct fix.
Lingerfelter sells a return spring you can bolt on your pedal
Or you can fix it right with the billet mcloed release bearing setup. It's a really nice piece, has braided lines, remote bleeder and a quick connect fitting. Also I suggest getting a small resivor off a quad or street bike rear brake setup and make it a seperate resivor as the stock setup has the clutch and brakes on one system and if you do like me and blow the stock release bearing apart you also lose your brakes.
Hope this adds some info to your search
Both stock and aftermarket gave me issues with a sticking pedal, the hydraulic fluid doesn't return fast enough to the release bearing under fast shifts.
You have two options, one is a bandage and one is the correct fix.
Lingerfelter sells a return spring you can bolt on your pedal
Or you can fix it right with the billet mcloed release bearing setup. It's a really nice piece, has braided lines, remote bleeder and a quick connect fitting. Also I suggest getting a small resivor off a quad or street bike rear brake setup and make it a seperate resivor as the stock setup has the clutch and brakes on one system and if you do like me and blow the stock release bearing apart you also lose your brakes.
Hope this adds some info to your search
I am not saying it's the same on every car every time, this is only what Ive seen.
This was in my 5th gen. Blew apart TWO stock hydraulic setups at 700rwhp. No problems sense current mods to clutch setup. One was under stock plate and one with mcloed twin disk
Trending Topics
Dealership I took mine too said they have done a few, I think one other guy complained about it on here too. I just don't like how the resivors are linked to the brakes also. As I stated earlier I lost my brakes when I lost the clutch
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i change my fluid about every 1000 miles or so just suck out whats in the resovior and put high temp stuff back in , not had a pedal stick yet since doing that . before i had it stick alot. im at 471 /432 and no problems yet. pulls good and hard . i accually did 7 back to back 1/8 runs the other night and no problem. i changed my fluid before hand tho.
your fluid should be clear like water or a very small tint to it. if its any bit brown and flakes floating around clean it out
gettin rdy to spray 100 to 150 shot . we will see how long it last . but i know a few doing the same and still on stock clutch . but also know 2 that are in the 600+ range and stock clutch didnt last long at all
your fluid should be clear like water or a very small tint to it. if its any bit brown and flakes floating around clean it out
gettin rdy to spray 100 to 150 shot . we will see how long it last . but i know a few doing the same and still on stock clutch . but also know 2 that are in the 600+ range and stock clutch didnt last long at all
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, NM
i change my fluid about every 1000 miles or so just suck out whats in the resovior and put high temp stuff back in , not had a pedal stick yet since doing that . before i had it stick alot. im at 471 /432 and no problems yet. pulls good and hard . i accually did 7 back to back 1/8 runs the other night and no problem. i changed my fluid before hand tho.
your fluid should be clear like water or a very small tint to it. if its any bit brown and flakes floating around clean it out
gettin rdy to spray 100 to 150 shot . we will see how long it last . but i know a few doing the same and still on stock clutch . but also know 2 that are in the 600+ range and stock clutch didnt last long at all
your fluid should be clear like water or a very small tint to it. if its any bit brown and flakes floating around clean it out
gettin rdy to spray 100 to 150 shot . we will see how long it last . but i know a few doing the same and still on stock clutch . but also know 2 that are in the 600+ range and stock clutch didnt last long at all
