View Poll Results: What are your opinions?
Royal Purple
108
45.38%
Mobil 1
130
54.62%
Voters: 238. You may not vote on this poll
Royal Purple or Mobil 1?
07-08-2009, 12:11 AM
#261
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Running Mobil 1 5w-30 here going to autozone to snag some gc 0w for next change. Mine burns a little now... not sure how much but it does.... I think i will go RP in trans and diff.
07-08-2009, 08:57 AM
#263
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i use penszoil platinum. 3k and my oil STILL has a nice brown tint. I have personally witnessed a RP test and that seems to be some really good stuff. **** M1! I had it in my camaro and it seemed to burn it alot more than when i just had castrol. Ive had to 2 buddies with vettes say the same thing. Ive only heard 1 bad experience with RP. Was it oil i dont know...but i have a supervisor who swtiched to RP and his main bearings went in less than a month....again i dont know. but i do know that he was pissed and he said hed never go near that stuff again.
07-09-2009, 04:37 AM
#265
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I stay away from RP motor oil. I used M1 up till 117k miles, now I use Penzoil Platinum in both my GTP and my WS6. The GTP gets it every 5k miles, the WS6 gets it every 3k. Very happy with it.
07-09-2009, 01:00 PM
#266
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A 0W will provide FAR more protection than a 20W even though its a "thinner" oil at start up. That 20W is like syrup until it gets warmed up and then its almost the same weight as GC as its almost a 40W when warmed up.
07-09-2009, 01:37 PM
#267
Fbodyjunkie06, did somebody here say you didn’t know anything? Don’t think so. It’s just that you do seem to be doing something for the wrong reasons. That’s why we have this open forum here so we can see what others are doing and why. Learn from other’s experiences and be the wiser.
Like I said, if you have a problem with something and your idea of a fix works well for you, stick with it.
Like I said, if you have a problem with something and your idea of a fix works well for you, stick with it.
07-09-2009, 02:01 PM
#268
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I would vote for neither but thats not an option. I used royal purple one time and will never used it again...in my crankcase at least. My car had only 40,000 miles on it when I used it and must have burned a little of it because I had to add oil at 1,500 miles. And worse yet because I was cammed the knock sensor started going crazy and putting my car into limp mode because the oil had gotten so thin that the knock sensor was picking up every little vibration and thought that the car was detonating. I've always used sythetic and I've tried just about every brand and I can honestly say that Valvoline Syn Power is the way to be. When I change my oil it's still a little golden and doesn't smell like crap the way Royal Purple and Castrol Syntec does. The Valvoline greatly reduced my valvetrain noise and dry start. And just recently their claiming that Valvoline Syn power has 5x the weart protection that Mobil 1 has...
Just food for thought and my .02 cents
Just food for thought and my .02 cents
07-09-2009, 04:00 PM
#269
Its not that. Why in the HELL would you want a thicker oil at cold temp to provide LESS protection at startup. Thats when all of the damage occurs from with 99% of daily driving.
A 0W will provide FAR more protection than a 20W even though its a "thinner" oil at start up. That 20W is like syrup until it gets warmed up and then its almost the same weight as GC as its almost a 40W when warmed up.
A 0W will provide FAR more protection than a 20W even though its a "thinner" oil at start up. That 20W is like syrup until it gets warmed up and then its almost the same weight as GC as its almost a 40W when warmed up.
07-09-2009, 04:55 PM
#270
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Please review the attached jpegs for relative oil viscosities. These charts courtesy of the BITOG site. They are about a year or so old.
Thicker oil cushions moving parts more than thinner oil will. That does not necessarily mean that a thinner oil is not working to keep the parts apart. If you are chasing a quiet engine, get a Toyota. If you want an oil that works, everything in a 30w (from 0 to 10) and 40w (from 5 to 15) will work. Heck, even 50w oils will work. What could be considered optimum would be based upon what your individual criteria is.
I've used the thinnest 5w-30 and the very viscous M1 TDT and UOA (used oil analysis) numbers have been very close to each other. The better numbers came from the thin oil.
Thicker oil = higher pressure = less flow. Thinner oil = lower pressure = higher flow.
Unless you have a Huge Stroker or some other highly stressed engine configuration, the common wisdom is to use the thinnest oil that will do the job.
Any oil changed at reasonable intervals will do the trick. All the rest is fluff and flourishes.
Thicker oil cushions moving parts more than thinner oil will. That does not necessarily mean that a thinner oil is not working to keep the parts apart. If you are chasing a quiet engine, get a Toyota. If you want an oil that works, everything in a 30w (from 0 to 10) and 40w (from 5 to 15) will work. Heck, even 50w oils will work. What could be considered optimum would be based upon what your individual criteria is.
I've used the thinnest 5w-30 and the very viscous M1 TDT and UOA (used oil analysis) numbers have been very close to each other. The better numbers came from the thin oil.
Thicker oil = higher pressure = less flow. Thinner oil = lower pressure = higher flow.
Unless you have a Huge Stroker or some other highly stressed engine configuration, the common wisdom is to use the thinnest oil that will do the job.
Any oil changed at reasonable intervals will do the trick. All the rest is fluff and flourishes.
07-10-2009, 04:07 PM
#277
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There is no "best oil".
There are oils that are good for your application and those that are sub-optimal.
All the rest is marketing.
There are oils that are good for your application and those that are sub-optimal.
All the rest is marketing.
Last edited by Mr Incredible; 07-10-2009 at 04:12 PM.
07-10-2009, 04:45 PM
#278
After installing GC I noticed that it no longer burns oil and my oil pressure gauge is just below 60, assuming the OEM gauge goes up in 20's. One thing that didn't change is piston slap upon start up for the first few seconds, but thats not that big of a deal.
07-10-2009, 04:52 PM
#279