1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Anyone done this? I know you shouldnt, but technically you could.

Discuss

PhantomR/T

iTrader: (6)

I would. Screw it, do the topend rebuild right away, water pump, timing chain, oil pump, pushrods, nice rockers, heads and cam. But leave the stock intake and exhaust manifolds on for a little while.

I wish I had done that

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

probably just do the timing chain, cam, and springs for now. I have always wonder what a beefy cam like the ms4 would sound like through the stock exhaust.

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

I've always been a fan of letting the motor breathe some (headers, lid, etc.) before going with a cam to really get the most out of it. But if you know exactly what you want, you could always do those things later.

Keep in mind that after you install the cam you will need a tune. I would rather have some mods already so I wouldn't need a re-tune in a few months.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

The cam will make all those bolt on mods that much more noticable. I do agree though, usually I do all the basic bolt ons, intake and exhaust, then tune, then something larger. But oh well, I am going to break the mold on this one.

shiv15

iTrader: (7)

Do boltons at the same time, $$ permitting. What I'm going to do

1FASTBIRD

iTrader: (21)

I had a friend do a Cam without doing header's first... The car sounded pretty good on WOT but when at a stop not to much. I would just do all bolt on's first before the cam so you can get the full power that the cam will offer. Your choice though bro and Good Luck

suzookiegsxr

go for it dood. if your looking for performance cams a great place to start, youll get around to all that little cheap stuff eventually, if you got the dough, blow it quick before you have to buy food or something.
ha, anyway, the first mod i did to my trans am was a ls6 head cam intake swap, everything else was stock, it absolutly kicked *** bc it was so quiet but fast.
same thing with my recent purchase lt1 formula, it was stock except for a 224/230 cam, theres something about a stock cars comfort ... anyway the real reeason to do it is bc it such a drastic change from stock.
if you get a cam, all u have to do is remove your air filter and unbolt your Y pipe and youll be hauling *** f

406malibu

I wouldnt recommend removing an air filter if its a street car... at the track, thats fine for 1/4 mile passes. Also, unbolting the stock y pipe is a terrible idea. The stock manifolds still wont flow much better, the O2's will be exposed, the manifolds dont come down far enough, even with the cats on there, for that to be a good idea. All the hot gasses will stay under the car, and likely burn up a wire, or your floorboard.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

hmmmm.... heres something to think about..

you will have an ms4 cam in your car getting beat by bolt on cars.. or cars with itty bitty cams in them and LT's and ls6 intake..

i was on a budget just like you..

i did..


ms4 cam
double springs
hardened pushrods
pacesetter LT's (the cheap ones with no egr)
Xpipe with 1 chambers before the axle (i love this exhaust so i spent the extra bit, if you didnt wanna spend the money or can, just get a cut out)
lid
4k VIG stall


then i went and bought 410s and a FAST ported 90mm later when money permitted..

and then after that i bought my PRCls6 heads..

it would be dumb to do JUST an ms4 cam.. you will get beat by cars you should be waxing.. and frankly if you told me you had an ms4, and i beat you with my bolt on car i would laugh my *** off at you.. no offense of cvourse..

i say AT LEAST do lid, LT's, cutout.. thats only another 350$.. if you get the LTs used you could do it for 250-275ish$... or even get some mac mids, they are cheap as hell..

7camaro7

iTrader: (15)

I say look at mileage first, if its kinda high go ahead and install a ported oil pump. Put hardened chromoly pushrods in too, but DO IT!!! it would be a nice sleeper.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

you can put an ms4 cam in with an ls6 intake a lid LT's y pipe and stock muffler and it will sound almost exactly like stock.. no one will know the difference.. then go with an electric cutout... loud and more power whenever you want it..

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I will be doing the cam as the first mod, not trying to be a sleeper, just doing something different. Ill be doing the exhaust and intake section shortly after depending on how the finances flow. Thigns are rocky right now, but I just got a promotion, so well see if there is financial promotion as well

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

Not the best idea but oh well

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

why not? If your thinking is along the lines of...

"its not a great idea because you will have to get it tuned when you get the cam, then again after intake and exhaust"

then I agree, if its along the lines of...

"bolt ons should be the first mods b/c blah blah blah"

I disagree

406malibu

I like your attitude

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

That is why. How long do you plan on having it in before adding parts so that it can breathe?

406malibu

Whats wrong with having an athlete of a car with asthma? lol

Detoxx03

iTrader: (14)

It would be like me handcuffing one harm to a chair and then fighting someone. Not the greatest idea but anythings possible.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

I do not know, tops like 2-3 months. My intial tune is 500 period. No matter what they tune for whether it be bolt ons, H/C/I, nitrous, etc. The secondary tune is 200 bux for whatever. Thats they way it used to be on my mustang. I will have to verify if their pricing is the same.

Great analogy, athlete with asthma, lol