A "what would you do?" thread....clutch/rear
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First let me say, neither is 100% necessary, this is strictly a mod that I want. I drive my car maybe once a week and it more of a cruiser, not a race car.
Mods are in sig, still running stock clutch and stock rear-end....I recently had my clutch slip for the first time a few weeks ago when I tried downshifting and punching the gas going into 3rd around 60mph. It still grabs pretty damn good raking through the gears on a launch....The rear end runs as strong as it did the day I bought it, no leaks or excess noise....
I want to upgrade both the rear-end and the clutch. I know the clutch/flywheel will be cheaper, and its showing signs of failure first. But I also want a 9" rear with 4:10's at some point, but will be more expensive...
So LS1tech, what would you do?
Mods are in sig, still running stock clutch and stock rear-end....I recently had my clutch slip for the first time a few weeks ago when I tried downshifting and punching the gas going into 3rd around 60mph. It still grabs pretty damn good raking through the gears on a launch....The rear end runs as strong as it did the day I bought it, no leaks or excess noise....
I want to upgrade both the rear-end and the clutch. I know the clutch/flywheel will be cheaper, and its showing signs of failure first. But I also want a 9" rear with 4:10's at some point, but will be more expensive...
So LS1tech, what would you do?
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+1, that's what I was going to say. You don't want to drop the money for a clutch/flywheel then have your rear end go out or vice versa. I know it's hard to wait but that's what my advice would be. If you absolutely need/want to buy something that bad, I would say do the clutch/flywheel since that's shown signs of slipping. Then if the rear end were to go out, you could try to find a used 10 bolt to get you by until you can afford a 9"
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Do the clutch first. I'm still on the stock clutch and hydraulics, and with the power I'm making, it's still driveable, just no powershifting and taking off in 1st gear you have to get the revs up a little and slip the clutch to avoid stalling. I already bought a Textralia X-grip and Tick Adj. MC, just awaiting time for install. Your clutch problem is going to get a lot worse before your rear end starts doing anything, based on how often and the way you drive. If you were at the track and using a sticky tire, I would say maybe wait, but it sounds like you are like me. I drive about 15-20 miles a weekend on the street with no track time, so get the clutch IMO.
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I Was leaning this way as well, but my "car savings account" has reached a size where I can start to do some of these mods, so Im getting anxious.....Im most likely gonna do the clutch first, even on hard accelerations I can notice a slight hesitation before the RPM's start climbing when I upshift and hit the gas...But with a stickier clutch, the rear could go sooner....Gotta love moddin cars right?
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I used to be in the "same boat as you"....
The clutch fix is a must -- will impact you almost ever time you try to get a good run through the gears if your stocker is slipping.
I went with the LS7 kit and have been SUPER pleased with it. Drives just like stock however it's holding MUCH more power. The cost is like replacing the stock clutch -- how can you go wrong with that?
The rear will eventually need an upgrade too. Gonna suck when it happens, however I'd just enjoy banging on your new clutch until that happens.
The clutch fix is a must -- will impact you almost ever time you try to get a good run through the gears if your stocker is slipping.
I went with the LS7 kit and have been SUPER pleased with it. Drives just like stock however it's holding MUCH more power. The cost is like replacing the stock clutch -- how can you go wrong with that?
The rear will eventually need an upgrade too. Gonna suck when it happens, however I'd just enjoy banging on your new clutch until that happens.
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I'd do the clutch first since it's showing signs of wear. That's what went first for me also. Did a Spec 3 (even with all the bad rap it was getting) and so far after 15k miles and I don't know how many 6k clutch dumps it's still going strong. Next I went with a spooled 9". It's a lil noisy and you think things are tearing up at first then you get used to it and realize it's all good. I love my combo!! No problems and works great!!
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save and wait. If your downshifting and gasing it, and you replace your clutch and keep doing that, any good clutch you buy is then gonna put that rear end out. You may drive it as a weekend cruiser, but you may be also driving it hard, nothing wrong with that. Right now in stock form, your clutch is the weak link, you put in a good clutch, the rear becomes the weak link. good clutch, flywheel, and master with an install in my experience cost around 1k, unless you install yourself. Good rear with all the options I'd say around $3200.
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Most def do the clutch first. The rear "should" be ok just cruising around on the street, with non-sticky tires. Clutch will need to be replaced soon anyway. And a OEM clutch can barely hold the power of these cars STOCK. And not to be an *******, but as far as the rear-end goes, I doubt that your making 400whp on a mustang dyno, with basically just a cam and exhaust. Especially threw a stock LS1 intake.
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I would do the clutch, thats one thing about the internet is that you have to take what you read with a grain of salt. I know ALOT of people who are hard on there cars and Ive known 1 person who broke the 10 bolt and they were on slicks. Odds are if your on street tires you will be alright if you dont really race it. So the rear should last a while, while the clutch is starting to go now, so I would fix that first.