Should I buy this procharged ws6?
#1
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whats up,
I've found a 98 ws6 trans am m6 in my area for sale which I'm interested in purchasing. I've never had an F-body before but I've always wanted a ws6 since they came out. I'm looking for a (street/ light strip) weekend driver with lots of power and nice paint and interior. But I'm not looking for a money pit with constent maintance and problems. I have mechanical ability and lots of tools but zero experience with ls1 stuff. I have experience with older small blocks and carb motors. I have just enough money to purchase the car and do a few minor things to it but cant afford to put any real dough into it at the moment.
I'm posting to get some input, info, advice, from you guys to see what I would be getting myself into it I purchased this vehicle.
Heres a run down on the ws6:
slp iron block- ZL402
forged bottom end
small cam-- 218 ish/224 ish 114lsa
lq4 heads
patriot gold valve train
ls6 intake
aftermarket fuel rails and injectors
D1sc procharger 11psi
front mount intercooler
vortec mondo blow off valve
1 7/8" kooks lt headers
ory pipe
Mac exhuast with cutout
1000hp aerospace fuel pump set up with wire braided lines and regulators
Front and rear Qa1 adjustable shocks
curry 9" rear with 4.10 spool
m6 with spec stage-3 clutch
interior is leather(mint condition and all power options work)
- 6pt cage with swing arms
The car made 522rwhp on nice safe tune on hot summer day but with blower belt slipping at 5200rpm. Its been raced a couple times and has gone ~11.0 @ 136mph. Its suppose to be a good driver on street but spool is only real pia. THe tranny also gets notchy if you try shifting 2nd- 3rd fast when its cold. The car sounds good and paint and interior are nice. went for test ride, owner spun tires 1st thru 4th with little effort. Theres 50k mile on car and 4k on motor set up.
few questions for those who are more experienced with these cars:
Could I keep the spool rear for a weekend/ nice weather street driver?
Does the trans sound like its on it way out?
Does the rwhp seem low for the set up, could blower slip be main reason?
Are procharged motor alot of work to maintain or fine with a safe tune?
any advice, info would be helpful.
Thanks
I've found a 98 ws6 trans am m6 in my area for sale which I'm interested in purchasing. I've never had an F-body before but I've always wanted a ws6 since they came out. I'm looking for a (street/ light strip) weekend driver with lots of power and nice paint and interior. But I'm not looking for a money pit with constent maintance and problems. I have mechanical ability and lots of tools but zero experience with ls1 stuff. I have experience with older small blocks and carb motors. I have just enough money to purchase the car and do a few minor things to it but cant afford to put any real dough into it at the moment.
I'm posting to get some input, info, advice, from you guys to see what I would be getting myself into it I purchased this vehicle.
Heres a run down on the ws6:
slp iron block- ZL402
forged bottom end
small cam-- 218 ish/224 ish 114lsa
lq4 heads
patriot gold valve train
ls6 intake
aftermarket fuel rails and injectors
D1sc procharger 11psi
front mount intercooler
vortec mondo blow off valve
1 7/8" kooks lt headers
ory pipe
Mac exhuast with cutout
1000hp aerospace fuel pump set up with wire braided lines and regulators
Front and rear Qa1 adjustable shocks
curry 9" rear with 4.10 spool
m6 with spec stage-3 clutch
interior is leather(mint condition and all power options work)
- 6pt cage with swing arms
The car made 522rwhp on nice safe tune on hot summer day but with blower belt slipping at 5200rpm. Its been raced a couple times and has gone ~11.0 @ 136mph. Its suppose to be a good driver on street but spool is only real pia. THe tranny also gets notchy if you try shifting 2nd- 3rd fast when its cold. The car sounds good and paint and interior are nice. went for test ride, owner spun tires 1st thru 4th with little effort. Theres 50k mile on car and 4k on motor set up.
few questions for those who are more experienced with these cars:
Could I keep the spool rear for a weekend/ nice weather street driver?
Does the trans sound like its on it way out?
Does the rwhp seem low for the set up, could blower slip be main reason?
Are procharged motor alot of work to maintain or fine with a safe tune?
any advice, info would be helpful.
Thanks
#2
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Sounds like the trans could be on its way out, or maybe needs a fluid change. Most likely the synchros are worn out or are wearing out so I would keep that in mind.
Im not sure about the HP,seems kinda low for that amount of boost but with the belt slipping that would/could be the case with that. Ive read that Prochargers are really picky about how they're mounted and if they arent mounted the right way and braced good enough the belt could/will slip and eventually eat the belt up, which gets expensive. Ways to fix it are converting it to a 8 ro 10 rib belt.
Sounds like a badass car though and it has nice miles on it.
Im not sure about the HP,seems kinda low for that amount of boost but with the belt slipping that would/could be the case with that. Ive read that Prochargers are really picky about how they're mounted and if they arent mounted the right way and braced good enough the belt could/will slip and eventually eat the belt up, which gets expensive. Ways to fix it are converting it to a 8 ro 10 rib belt.
Sounds like a badass car though and it has nice miles on it.
#3
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also on the 2-3 shift it may need the drill mod. even on stock cars there are sometimes problems shifting due to the lack of fluid that is allowed through the lines. search for the "drill mod" on the forums.
#4
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Thanks for the responses guys I did a search on drill mod and read though some posts.
The blower has an 8 rib set up now.
I'm really leaning toward picking this car up but I have some more research to do before I decide.
The blower has an 8 rib set up now.
I'm really leaning toward picking this car up but I have some more research to do before I decide.
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#9
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I wouldn't spend that kind of money for that....then again I personally would never buy a car with those kind of mods being I wasn't the one that had control of who installed it and not knowing if it was done right. When you start boosting a car and throw those kind of mods on, it had better be done right the first time or you could run into some expensive repair bills. I myself like modding out my own cars. FYI, I just picked my 02 WS6 up bone stock w/ 27k for 10.2 there are good deals to be had out there right now.
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If you want a car like this, I would go for 16k. Trying to build a similar setup, will cost more than 17 not included the car itself. If you are mechanically good with cars, I would go for it if no problems exist. This guys is not pushing this motor hard so it should last awhile with proper maintenance.
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Something doesn't sound right here. Only 522hp out of a 402 on 11 psi? I made very similar numbers on 10 psi from a 346. The 402 should be significantly higher. Also he says the belt is slipping which sounds to me like its a 6 rib system. Why would you skimp there and do everything else thats been done. Sounds like someone trying to unload something to me. JMHO
#12
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I wouldn't spend that kind of money for that....then again I personally would never buy a car with those kind of mods being I wasn't the one that had control of who installed it and not knowing if it was done right. When you start boosting a car and throw those kind of mods on, it had better be done right the first time or you could run into some expensive repair bills. I myself like modding out my own cars. FYI, I just picked my 02 WS6 up bone stock w/ 27k for 10.2 there are good deals to be had out there right now.
#14
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Interesting. In short, the setup sounds great however I'm a bit concerned about the power numbers. The trap speed on the track runs look good and seem to support the car making more power however it certainly isn't showing up on the dyno.
If there's an easy remedy to the belt slipping on the blower I think an argument for purchasing it is that the supporting suspension, rear, clutch, etc. mods are already there.
As far as the number, it's considerably cheaper than it would cost you to buy a low miles, stock(ish) car and then perform the same mods. That being said, mods typically add pennies to the dollar on the value of a used car and I'd see if I could get him into a more comfortable price range.
If there's an easy remedy to the belt slipping on the blower I think an argument for purchasing it is that the supporting suspension, rear, clutch, etc. mods are already there.
As far as the number, it's considerably cheaper than it would cost you to buy a low miles, stock(ish) car and then perform the same mods. That being said, mods typically add pennies to the dollar on the value of a used car and I'd see if I could get him into a more comfortable price range.
#15
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yeah i'm with everyone else trap speeds seem very good but HP#'s are not right. Honestly if it was me I would not buy it. I have not personally seen the car but 17K for something that could ended up costing alot more in repairs if the parts were not installed correctly is not worth it. I would buy more of a stockish and install parts yourself. at least then you'll know it was done right. Don't get my wrong there are alot of nice modded procharged cars out there but you never know how and if they were abused and maintained properly. I would offer him 15K and see what he says. At least you'll have extra in case something does happen.
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Get your self A bone stock Trans am And invest about 20k and you would get way better numbers than That. A tt With a forged motor will send you to more than 800Hp Easily. Rear end and trans would maybe be another 5000. Here is the calculation just for Example.....
forged pistons and crank:3000
tt:7000(For a good setup)
Trans:2000
Rear end: 3000 (Ford Rear end is unbreakable)
Clutch: (LS7 Handles big time HP) 400
forged pistons and crank:3000
tt:7000(For a good setup)
Trans:2000
Rear end: 3000 (Ford Rear end is unbreakable)
Clutch: (LS7 Handles big time HP) 400
#18
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Honestly If your that worried about something going wrong with the car and cant afford to fix it I would pass. Everyone on this site being "car guys" know that nobody does all those mods and puts all that money into a car without pushing it and using it. Not necessarily abusing it but Definitely using it. And whenever you get into high HP with engine swaps, new rears, etc. you run a bigger risk of having problems just because of the power that its making. If your looking for a fun weekend street car with minor track time I would find something with the stock engine and maybe a light cam or blower setup that runs good. At least that way IF something goes wrong you know what your looking at a basic LS1 with light mods.
#20
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Throwing 30k+ into a car is no smarter than buying a modded one for 17k. I purchased my car for 16k 5 years ago with very low miles. For all the money I wasted on my car I would of rather bought one already built or bought a **** box and put a down payment on a house!![Bang Head](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_banghead.gif)
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I would get the car checked out at local performance shop that knows modded f-bodies and get their honest thoughts on the car.
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I would get the car checked out at local performance shop that knows modded f-bodies and get their honest thoughts on the car.