Ebay Headers...Need help with banging around after install
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Hey guys. I have a 2005 silverado 4X4 and am having this problem...I am cross posting from performancetrucks.net
Thanks for the help
Hey guys. I just got the ebay headers installed with a Dynomax "Super Turbo" Muffler installed. The truck runs great and is actually pretty quiet for what it is. The problem is that when I am turning to the left the driver side header touches the driveshaft (where the four bolts connect the driveshaft with the Yolk). It creates a nasty banging or metallic machine gun noise depending on speed.
It isnt touching much but it has put some scratches onto the header collector and worn away the part of the driveshaft down to nice shiny new metal. How do I go about getting the driveshaft off of the collector? This only happens at slow speed by the way. Do I dent the collector a little bit to get it off? Do I file the very corner of the bolts on the DS Yolk?
HELP.
Mike
Thanks for the help
Hey guys. I just got the ebay headers installed with a Dynomax "Super Turbo" Muffler installed. The truck runs great and is actually pretty quiet for what it is. The problem is that when I am turning to the left the driver side header touches the driveshaft (where the four bolts connect the driveshaft with the Yolk). It creates a nasty banging or metallic machine gun noise depending on speed.
It isnt touching much but it has put some scratches onto the header collector and worn away the part of the driveshaft down to nice shiny new metal. How do I go about getting the driveshaft off of the collector? This only happens at slow speed by the way. Do I dent the collector a little bit to get it off? Do I file the very corner of the bolts on the DS Yolk?
HELP.
Mike
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pics help man, id take it to your local exhaust shop and pay them to heat your headers and bend it where it wont hit, of couse if its no tru duels that will be a problem, if you bend your headers without heatin them up u might bend that flange on em and have a good exhaust leak, hope this helps
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So they could theoretically tell me one of three things...
1) take them off and box them up and send them back...adding another 4-6 hours of work plus reinstalling the old stuff because I cant have this vehicle down.
2) Use a hammer and a little heat to massage them away from the driveshaft. of course voiding the warranty.
3) clearance the driveshaft bolts a little to make room (probably wouldnt suggest that im sure)
I understand that I could have bought 7-1200 dollar headers that are proven and have a great reputation..however, I paid 230$ for these and they look and fit otherwise very nice
If you cant help me or have a suggestion that would help me..please clutter my post with useless stuff..Thanks
Mike
1) take them off and box them up and send them back...adding another 4-6 hours of work plus reinstalling the old stuff because I cant have this vehicle down.
2) Use a hammer and a little heat to massage them away from the driveshaft. of course voiding the warranty.
3) clearance the driveshaft bolts a little to make room (probably wouldnt suggest that im sure)
I understand that I could have bought 7-1200 dollar headers that are proven and have a great reputation..however, I paid 230$ for these and they look and fit otherwise very nice
If you cant help me or have a suggestion that would help me..please clutter my post with useless stuff..Thanks
Mike
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pics help man, id take it to your local exhaust shop and pay them to heat your headers and bend it where it wont hit, of couse if its no tru duels that will be a problem, if you bend your headers without heatin them up u might bend that flange on em and have a good exhaust leak, hope this helps
Thanks again.
Mike
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What brand are they? And I would call the manufacturer and see what they say? There might be a chance they are defective or theres a chance they won't help in which case it really doesn't matter if you void the warranty making them fit. Have you researched the headers on any other fourms? If so did others have this issue?
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Thats what I was thinking too, but he said there for a truck, so I really don't know whats available for his model. But I would sooner run stock manifolds then off brand headers. Too much to worry about overall, fitment issues, leaking flanges, etc...
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Thanks for all the replies. The headers are "Ebay headers". They are the same as the old Dynatech headers. The tooling was sold to a company in china when they redesigned. They are very popular amongst the truck and foreign car community.
I did several months of research on them and read no less then 20 reviews. They were all pretty much good to go. Every once in a while I would read about someone having to clearance a dipstick tube mount to get them on.
After posting this on performancetrucks.net, it seems several people have this problem with a couple kinds of headers on our trucks. (truck is a 2005 silverado RCSB 4X4.
Pacesetters crossed my mind, as I have used them on several installs. However, I live in central Indiana where they salt the hell out of the roads, and most of those installs I did are showing some pretty good surface rust.
Stainless was the only option for this truck as I wanted to do it once and be done with it. Plus I spent 300 Shipped to my house for the headers and the Y pipe with all parts and pieces.
I am going to the local exhast shop today to have them put a torch on the header and gently bang it away from the driveshaft. Shouldnt have to move much at all.
I did several months of research on them and read no less then 20 reviews. They were all pretty much good to go. Every once in a while I would read about someone having to clearance a dipstick tube mount to get them on.
After posting this on performancetrucks.net, it seems several people have this problem with a couple kinds of headers on our trucks. (truck is a 2005 silverado RCSB 4X4.
Pacesetters crossed my mind, as I have used them on several installs. However, I live in central Indiana where they salt the hell out of the roads, and most of those installs I did are showing some pretty good surface rust.
Stainless was the only option for this truck as I wanted to do it once and be done with it. Plus I spent 300 Shipped to my house for the headers and the Y pipe with all parts and pieces.
I am going to the local exhast shop today to have them put a torch on the header and gently bang it away from the driveshaft. Shouldnt have to move much at all.
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No, not necessarily. I've seen some 4x4 specific headers in the past...maybe he inadvertantly bought 2wd headers. Just a thought.
Want to know what I got with a knock off? A perfect fit, no frustration, didn't have to unbolt OR grind down anything to install. And, zero rust.
Want to know what I got with a knock off? A perfect fit, no frustration, didn't have to unbolt OR grind down anything to install. And, zero rust.
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The headers are not 4wd/ 2wd specific. They fit both models. They went on and lined up great. Everywhere there is supposed to be a bolt, the holes line up perfectly.
This problem is very minor. The contact area is quite literally the very very tip of the bolt heads on the DS. While driving, most of the time there is no contact. Only when turning hard left. The truck is going to the shop in a few hours to get the torch and a little massage with a hammer. If I can dent the headers maybe even a quarter inch in they wont touch anymore.
Minor problem for a "universal" long tube setup.
This problem is very minor. The contact area is quite literally the very very tip of the bolt heads on the DS. While driving, most of the time there is no contact. Only when turning hard left. The truck is going to the shop in a few hours to get the torch and a little massage with a hammer. If I can dent the headers maybe even a quarter inch in they wont touch anymore.
Minor problem for a "universal" long tube setup.