I wanna go faster-consistently
#6
i have an auto 4l60e. I am getting the suspension shored up this summer, I will be ordering the PHB and LCA's and lca brackets from founders next month, at right around 170 for all of that. I dont think i will be getting adjustable as i dont really wanna lower anything. I know to really hook i need DR's, maybe ill get some but im sticking with street tire for now.
I am also getting some UMI bolt in SFC's for a hundred. with the addition on the LCA stuff and PHB that pretty much takes care of the rear for me, minus sway bar. However, I fear my real problem is the stock worn out decarbons. I will be buying some new shocks before anything else is bought. I will be getting a 3800 stall as well. probably revmax. flame on.
I am also getting some UMI bolt in SFC's for a hundred. with the addition on the LCA stuff and PHB that pretty much takes care of the rear for me, minus sway bar. However, I fear my real problem is the stock worn out decarbons. I will be buying some new shocks before anything else is bought. I will be getting a 3800 stall as well. probably revmax. flame on.
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#8
Launching!
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Remove the front swaybar, adjustable shocks, torque arm and MT DRs. That should get you hooking alot better! Don't worry about the rear swaybar just yet, get the other things first! And what's up with the 354hp @ 5400rpm, don't tell me it falls off after that!! Do you have the stock LS1 intake??
#11
Remove the front swaybar, adjustable shocks, torque arm and MT DRs. That should get you hooking alot better! Don't worry about the rear swaybar just yet, get the other things first! And what's up with the 354hp @ 5400rpm, don't tell me it falls off after that!! Do you have the stock LS1 intake??
Yes I have the stock ls1 intake! But the 5400 is becasue we didnt take it that high in 3rd gear, something about dynoing a 98' and with their steel driveshafts snapping tail housings when you get to 125 mph plus and just let off the gas. I wanted to make sure my a/f were spot on and the guys over at straightline helped me big time. Its probably a safe tune but we predicted about 370 whp at 62-6500. I need an ls6 intake tho i am aware of this. It was still climbing at 5400 tho. ill try and get a pic of my graph.
I dont really wanna add more hp just lookinging to get my current setup dialed in.
hey what color is that car in your sig? i am in need of paint and was looking for a color green around there.
#13
ds neither did I! thats why i was a little confused, speed inc told me steel driveshafts dont like dyno's, and told me a horror story about a guy just brought his 98 auto in there and broke his tail housing. I believe this is in reference to autos and not your 6spd. I could have pulled higher but would of been number hunting at that point. Once i get an ls6 intake on there ill spin her 6500 and see where im at at that point.
#14
TECH Senior Member
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will removing the front sway drastically change handling for a dd? Whats the purpose of removing the front sway bar?
Yes I have the stock ls1 intake! But the 5400 is becasue we didnt take it that high in 3rd gear, something about dynoing a 98' and with their steel driveshafts snapping tail housings when you get to 125 mph plus and just let off the gas. I wanted to make sure my a/f were spot on and the guys over at straightline helped me big time. Its probably a safe tune but we predicted about 370 whp at 62-6500. I need an ls6 intake tho i am aware of this. It was still climbing at 5400 tho. ill try and get a pic of my graph.
Yes I have the stock ls1 intake! But the 5400 is becasue we didnt take it that high in 3rd gear, something about dynoing a 98' and with their steel driveshafts snapping tail housings when you get to 125 mph plus and just let off the gas. I wanted to make sure my a/f were spot on and the guys over at straightline helped me big time. Its probably a safe tune but we predicted about 370 whp at 62-6500. I need an ls6 intake tho i am aware of this. It was still climbing at 5400 tho. ill try and get a pic of my graph.
get your car redynoed. i never heard about a steel DS breaking for no reason. but if it was me id go with an aluminum DS.
#15
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I can't see where that's the ds breaking the tail shaft. Maybe the tq if it has an excessive amount of preload. I let out in the 125 range more often than not at the track and have had no issues what so ever.
Back to the topic though a tire would be first on the list. If the tire isn't going to hook the suspension isn't going to get a chance to work.
Back to the topic though a tire would be first on the list. If the tire isn't going to hook the suspension isn't going to get a chance to work.
#17
Launching!
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Mine is not a DD but I do drive it wherever I go. QA1s w/275# springs on the front, no swaybar, skinnies, MT DRs and a spool. If your car is setup for drag racing then drive it accordingly!!! I have heard of stock TAs breaking the tailshaft at the mounting point, install an aftermarket TA or at least the bracket that mounts the stock TA to the crossmember. You better get the car to hook before adding more power or a big converter, wheelspin leads to wheelhop which leads to a broken rear!!
#19
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^^^^yup..If I'd of know that when I first bought my car...It would've been my first mod.. What a difference a stall makes. Your running a 224 without a suitable stall???? Why?? No brainer here... 32-3600stall would love that cam, and help you go faster...match it with some sticky tires. This is just too obvious here.
#20
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Yeah you need a stall. 3200-4000.
I would prefer a aluminum DS.
If i'm trying for a personal best I race without the swaybar but I re install it for street. I dont like the feel without it.
You def need a good tire for consistancy.
Suspension is always a plus even though I have none.
I would prefer a aluminum DS.
If i'm trying for a personal best I race without the swaybar but I re install it for street. I dont like the feel without it.
You def need a good tire for consistancy.
Suspension is always a plus even though I have none.