Ready to make my next move -- but which move should I make?
#1
Ready to make my next move -- but which move should I make?
99 Camaro Z28, Project of 600 WHP boosted machine. I was going to go with a TVS2300 Magnacharger build offered by Hawks but their shop burned down so I guess that idea went up in smoke... Maybe I'll go Procharger or turbo.. I'd like to keep A/C -- anyway all thats a decision for another day...
Here is the deal, I saved up alittle over 3 Grand and have more coming.. Originally I was going to go with the a MWC 9" Fab
My exhaust is still factory -- I haven't gotten an SES for my cats ever since I replaced my MAF.
Motor has 212k on it but still runs very strong.
Should I:
Transmission has already been addressed with a level 6 4L60E FLT model.
Here is the deal, I saved up alittle over 3 Grand and have more coming.. Originally I was going to go with the a MWC 9" Fab
My exhaust is still factory -- I haven't gotten an SES for my cats ever since I replaced my MAF.
Motor has 212k on it but still runs very strong.
Should I:
- Get the MWC 9" Fab?
- Get a Dana S60?
- Full Exhaust?
- Buy a rebuilt stock LQ4 or possibly save alittle more for a Forged LQ4 and begin addressing the motor?
- Start addressing my severely worn suspension components?
Transmission has already been addressed with a level 6 4L60E FLT model.
#2
LS1Tech Administrator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Posts: 32,021
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,059 Posts
Have you done further diagnosis on the coolant/radiator fountain issue mentioned in your other thread? I thought there was a concern about head gaskets? If so, I'd start with this:
No point in doing an FI build on an engine with questionable head gaskets and that many miles. I'd address that first.
#3
I'm very confused by this. Didn't they just loose a parts storage building in the fire? I haven't heard anything about the entire business burning down. Didn't someone in the other thread already mention having contacted them? Their website is still up and running. I'd call them before scrapping plans, if that's what you really wanted. I don't see any sign that they've closed up shop and thrown in the towel for good.
Have you done further diagnosis on the coolant/radiator fountain issue mentioned in your other thread? I thought there was a concern about head gaskets? If so, I'd start with this:
No point in doing an FI build on an engine with questionable head gaskets and that many miles. I'd address that first.
Have you done further diagnosis on the coolant/radiator fountain issue mentioned in your other thread? I thought there was a concern about head gaskets? If so, I'd start with this:
No point in doing an FI build on an engine with questionable head gaskets and that many miles. I'd address that first.
I haven't called Hawks yet, was going to on Monday to see what was really what.
For the coolant issue, I haven't lost anymore coolant yet, so I'm not sure if there's a headgasket leak or not but its running at full power / no misfires anymore ever since I replaced the MAF.
I was going to address the head gaskets by just replacing the motor because I didn't see the point of replacing them if I was going to need to build a stronger motor for my plans anyway.
I'm definitely not going to throw boost at the stock LS1 though, not even going to dream of that. My current goals were basically to build the car to support the power, but not to actually make the power yet.
I'ma look into doing the Forged LQ4 and possibly exhaust along with it to get things rolling on that park.
Curious since I'm there, since the motor will start NA will I be making less power than a stock LS1 since they are lower compression motors? Also since I'm there can I do anything in the heads / cam department that will make it "quick" NA that can still be used for the F.I. setup?
#4
For motor options, just looking here...
(I don't know if TMS is a vendor here)
I was looking at their Boost King Stage 1 LQ4 Longblock which is rated to handle up to 700 HP and costs about $5.6k
On the flipside, I could just pick up a reman stock LQ4 longblock which Im hearing can also hold up to 700 HP for almost half the price so long as the tune is safe.
I am curious though, why is TMS offering a different package for 600 - 700 HP when a stock motor is capable of supporting it?
(I don't know if TMS is a vendor here)
I was looking at their Boost King Stage 1 LQ4 Longblock which is rated to handle up to 700 HP and costs about $5.6k
On the flipside, I could just pick up a reman stock LQ4 longblock which Im hearing can also hold up to 700 HP for almost half the price so long as the tune is safe.
I am curious though, why is TMS offering a different package for 600 - 700 HP when a stock motor is capable of supporting it?
Last edited by Need4Camaro; 03-25-2018 at 04:43 AM.
#5
12 Second Club
I would get a 9" rear end next. The stock 10-bolt won't last long under 600whp.
You already beefed up the transmission. I would have done it differently, but hopefully the 4L60 will hold-up for you.
You already beefed up the transmission. I would have done it differently, but hopefully the 4L60 will hold-up for you.
Trending Topics
#8
LS1Tech Administrator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Posts: 32,021
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,059 Posts
The rear isn't a major concern for the automatic cars that are primarily street driven, at least as long as you have wheel hop under control. Power level doesn't matter so much as driving style/usage. If it were mine, I wouldn't spend the money on an expensive rear when there is still an underlying issue with compression possibly getting into the cooling system (that coolant/radiator fountain issue). If your fix for that is going to be a new engine (which makes sense if you planned to build one anyway), then I would address that first. Or at least do some further diagnosis on that before making a decision.
#9
For my current LS I can try pulling a few plugs to see what they look like. I'll just need to buy a spare set of wires (the rear passenger side ones are just too much of a pain.)
I was also recommended in that thread not to overlook the water pump as someone mentioned the possibility of a pinhole leak somewhere in it causing a vacuum condition to pressurize the system. If I change the Water Pump I want to go with a Delco LS3 pump.
For the motor, I guess I will go with TMS..
Question is with their boost packages (because I won't immediately be in boost till I address the rest of the drivetrain / suspension) - is there a way that I will beable to increase the power over stock LS1 power while staying within a good combo for a forced induction setup?
I was also recommended in that thread not to overlook the water pump as someone mentioned the possibility of a pinhole leak somewhere in it causing a vacuum condition to pressurize the system. If I change the Water Pump I want to go with a Delco LS3 pump.
For the motor, I guess I will go with TMS..
Question is with their boost packages (because I won't immediately be in boost till I address the rest of the drivetrain / suspension) - is there a way that I will beable to increase the power over stock LS1 power while staying within a good combo for a forced induction setup?
#10
LS1Tech Administrator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Posts: 32,021
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,059 Posts
For my current LS I can try pulling a few plugs to see what they look like. I'll just need to buy a spare set of wires (the rear passenger side ones are just too much of a pain.)
I was also recommended in that thread not to overlook the water pump as someone mentioned the possibility of a pinhole leak somewhere in it causing a vacuum condition to pressurize the system. If I change the Water Pump I want to go with a Delco LS3 pump.
I was also recommended in that thread not to overlook the water pump as someone mentioned the possibility of a pinhole leak somewhere in it causing a vacuum condition to pressurize the system. If I change the Water Pump I want to go with a Delco LS3 pump.
Doing a compression test would likely be a better bet here. You could also test the coolant for combustion gases (I believe there is a basic kit that can be purchased for this).
#11
With that stated, would I be better off just using a stock 2.5k reman LQ4 or should I just take them up and buy a 408?
One thing about my power goal is I don't want to exceed 600 RWHP because I will likely start to compromise the integrity of my 4L60E.
Last edited by Need4Camaro; 03-26-2018 at 03:00 PM.
#12
TECH Regular
Sense your exhaust is still factory stock I would get long tubes and x pipe as soon as you can with a boost application you will see amazing gains by changing out that stock setup you can get long tubes and xpipe fairly cheap from SE and even the power gains on stock application is alot so that would be the first thing I would do
#13
Sense your exhaust is still factory stock I would get long tubes and x pipe as soon as you can with a boost application you will see amazing gains by changing out that stock setup you can get long tubes and xpipe fairly cheap from SE and even the power gains on stock application is alot so that would be the first thing I would do
I think, I'm just going to give the stock LQ4 from a 05+ a try, if I blow it I'll have a built motor made for the car. I will slowly apply boost, starting first at around 500 RWHP and gradually increase to 600 RWHP.
So my next purchase will be a Stock LQ4, then exhaust, and then my MWC 9" Rear, and finally the Magnacharger... I think I will go in that order.
#14
TECH Regular
I want to go with SE's true dual axle-back setup. It looks like a bargain for what it offers.
I think, I'm just going to give the stock LQ4 from a 05+ a try, if I blow it I'll have a built motor made for the car. I will slowly apply boost, starting first at around 500 RWHP and gradually increase to 600 RWHP.
So my next purchase will be a Stock LQ4, then exhaust, and then my MWC 9" Rear, and finally the Magnacharger... I think I will go in that order.
I think, I'm just going to give the stock LQ4 from a 05+ a try, if I blow it I'll have a built motor made for the car. I will slowly apply boost, starting first at around 500 RWHP and gradually increase to 600 RWHP.
So my next purchase will be a Stock LQ4, then exhaust, and then my MWC 9" Rear, and finally the Magnacharger... I think I will go in that order.
i see youre wanting to run a roots style supercharger somthing to take a look at if your wanting to drag race your car would be a centrifugal supercharger like a procharger they make better top end power at the rpm your actually at in a race insted of all down low and youre gonna get better performance at the track, now if youre running your car from red light to red light then roots might be the better option