Next mods and maintenance suggestions
03-31-2020, 09:35 PM
#1
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Next mods and maintenance suggestions Looking for next mods to make (or current maintenance items I'm missing) . I dont have plans for anything too crazy. Car is a 1998 Z28 with 48K miles.
So far:
koni yellow with BMR lowering springs
adjustable panhard bar
lca relocation brackets
1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers with catless Y
poly motor mounts
SLP lid
SSRA
3600 PTC stall converter
B&M supercooler
maint items in the last 3K miles
MSD wires
NGK plugs
Amsoil with additive in the stock diff
Coolant,power steering fluid, brake fluid, pads, rotors, all original. Same with sway bars .. pretty much everything on the car is original
So far:
koni yellow with BMR lowering springs
adjustable panhard bar
lca relocation brackets
1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers with catless Y
poly motor mounts
SLP lid
SSRA
3600 PTC stall converter
B&M supercooler
maint items in the last 3K miles
MSD wires
NGK plugs
Amsoil with additive in the stock diff
Coolant,power steering fluid, brake fluid, pads, rotors, all original. Same with sway bars .. pretty much everything on the car is original
Last edited by Tyler Dietzenbach; 03-31-2020 at 09:43 PM.
04-01-2020, 12:28 PM
#3
I would say that any fluids that are original should be changed.
Sway bar hardware is an inexpensive and easy upgrade.
My car is at a similar stage in mods. I'm in the process of upgrading the brakes to the base C7 caliper and rotor.
As for other mods and upgrades it depends what you want the car to be. Lots of different ways to go.
Sway bar hardware is an inexpensive and easy upgrade.
My car is at a similar stage in mods. I'm in the process of upgrading the brakes to the base C7 caliper and rotor.
As for other mods and upgrades it depends what you want the car to be. Lots of different ways to go.
04-01-2020, 01:47 PM
#4
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I will second the sway bar link pins. They are relatively cheap and should be the same front and rear. They can look fine but after you remove them you will see that little road sand/rocks have eaten up the inside of the bushings. If they haven't been recently changed they are corroded or rusted, don't bother trying to wrench them off, just use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) or angle grinder and just cut them off. Saves a lot of time.
04-01-2020, 02:26 PM
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At 48k miles, the swaybar hardware should still be fine, unless it was stored/driven in a very harsh environment. Swaybar bushings may be marginal through, perhaps starting to squeak in the cold, etc. Not a bad upgrade if you're looking for improved handling though.
It worries me that the coolant is still original after 22 years. That is....not good, at all. Flushing the system (I'd do it at least twice at this point) and getting fresh coolant in place would be my number one priority. Honestly, I'm shocked there are no cooling system issues at this point, assuming it's actually still original. There is NOTHING wrong with using Dexcool in an LS1 (contrary to what some folks might think), but leaving the same antifreeze in for 22 years and nearly 50k miles is just asking for trouble, regardless of the type/brand used.
Brake fluid should also be changed, PS fluid as well but the brake fluid is more critical at this point IMO. Brake pads and rotors don't go bad from sitting (unless the rotors were in an environment where they were able to develop more than just flash/surface rust), so if there is plenty of pad material and no pulsation in the pedal then I see no reason to change these (unless you just want to upgrade the whole system). FWIW, the pads and rotors on my '98 Z28 are also original, but mine has only 18k miles; there is still so much pad material left that it looks like the brakes are brand new, and stopping is smooth and strong. I imagine yours are more worn at 48k, but if it was highway miles then they might still be fine. I do keep the fluid changed in mine though, so pedal pressure is quite firm even with stock lines and hoses.
You may notice issues with the rear end using Amsoil. The 1998s were the last year to still receive the Auburn LSD from GM; this LSD is pretty picky about lube type and many folks find that it doesn't work as well (chatter, poor engagement, etc.) if anything other than conventional 80w90 lube (plus GM additive) is used. Sometimes it's OK, but just be aware of this if you start to notice any issues.
It worries me that the coolant is still original after 22 years. That is....not good, at all. Flushing the system (I'd do it at least twice at this point) and getting fresh coolant in place would be my number one priority. Honestly, I'm shocked there are no cooling system issues at this point, assuming it's actually still original. There is NOTHING wrong with using Dexcool in an LS1 (contrary to what some folks might think), but leaving the same antifreeze in for 22 years and nearly 50k miles is just asking for trouble, regardless of the type/brand used.
Brake fluid should also be changed, PS fluid as well but the brake fluid is more critical at this point IMO. Brake pads and rotors don't go bad from sitting (unless the rotors were in an environment where they were able to develop more than just flash/surface rust), so if there is plenty of pad material and no pulsation in the pedal then I see no reason to change these (unless you just want to upgrade the whole system). FWIW, the pads and rotors on my '98 Z28 are also original, but mine has only 18k miles; there is still so much pad material left that it looks like the brakes are brand new, and stopping is smooth and strong. I imagine yours are more worn at 48k, but if it was highway miles then they might still be fine. I do keep the fluid changed in mine though, so pedal pressure is quite firm even with stock lines and hoses.
You may notice issues with the rear end using Amsoil. The 1998s were the last year to still receive the Auburn LSD from GM; this LSD is pretty picky about lube type and many folks find that it doesn't work as well (chatter, poor engagement, etc.) if anything other than conventional 80w90 lube (plus GM additive) is used. Sometimes it's OK, but just be aware of this if you start to notice any issues.
04-01-2020, 02:43 PM
#7
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At 48k miles, the swaybar hardware should still be fine, unless it was stored/driven in a very harsh environment. Swaybar bushings may be marginal through, perhaps starting to squeak in the cold, etc. Not a bad upgrade if you're looking for improved handling though.
It worries me that the coolant is still original after 22 years. That is....not good, at all. Flushing the system (I'd do it at least twice at this point) and getting fresh coolant in place would be my number one priority. Honestly, I'm shocked there are no cooling system issues at this point, assuming it's actually still original. There is NOTHING wrong with using Dexcool in an LS1 (contrary to what some folks might think), but leaving the same antifreeze in for 22 years and nearly 50k miles is just asking for trouble, regardless of the type/brand used.
Brake fluid should also be changed, PS fluid as well but the brake fluid is more critical at this point IMO. Brake pads and rotors don't go bad from sitting (unless the rotors were in an environment where they were able to develop more than just flash/surface rust), so if there is plenty of pad material and no pulsation in the pedal then I see no reason to change these (unless you just want to upgrade the whole system). FWIW, the pads and rotors on my '98 Z28 are also original, but mine has only 18k miles; there is still so much pad material left that it looks like the brakes are brand new, and stopping is smooth and strong. I imagine yours are more worn at 48k, but if it was highway miles then they might still be fine. I do keep the fluid changed in mine though, so pedal pressure is quite firm even with stock lines and hoses.
You may notice issues with the rear end using Amsoil. The 1998s were the last year to still receive the Auburn LSD from GM; this LSD is pretty picky about lube type and many folks find that it doesn't work as well (chatter, poor engagement, etc.) if anything other than conventional 80w90 lube (plus GM additive) is used. Sometimes it's OK, but just be aware of this if you start to notice any issues.
It worries me that the coolant is still original after 22 years. That is....not good, at all. Flushing the system (I'd do it at least twice at this point) and getting fresh coolant in place would be my number one priority. Honestly, I'm shocked there are no cooling system issues at this point, assuming it's actually still original. There is NOTHING wrong with using Dexcool in an LS1 (contrary to what some folks might think), but leaving the same antifreeze in for 22 years and nearly 50k miles is just asking for trouble, regardless of the type/brand used.
Brake fluid should also be changed, PS fluid as well but the brake fluid is more critical at this point IMO. Brake pads and rotors don't go bad from sitting (unless the rotors were in an environment where they were able to develop more than just flash/surface rust), so if there is plenty of pad material and no pulsation in the pedal then I see no reason to change these (unless you just want to upgrade the whole system). FWIW, the pads and rotors on my '98 Z28 are also original, but mine has only 18k miles; there is still so much pad material left that it looks like the brakes are brand new, and stopping is smooth and strong. I imagine yours are more worn at 48k, but if it was highway miles then they might still be fine. I do keep the fluid changed in mine though, so pedal pressure is quite firm even with stock lines and hoses.
You may notice issues with the rear end using Amsoil. The 1998s were the last year to still receive the Auburn LSD from GM; this LSD is pretty picky about lube type and many folks find that it doesn't work as well (chatter, poor engagement, etc.) if anything other than conventional 80w90 lube (plus GM additive) is used. Sometimes it's OK, but just be aware of this if you start to notice any issues.
Loads of great info here. No cooling issues. Car actually cools extremely well (so far obviously) it never runs hot at all. I will however be changing it out per your recommendations. Car is a garage queen. Rust free, more of a cruiser/fun car. As for the differential, I followed the book that came with my car. It says use the gm slip additive and synthetic 75-90. So that's what I did. It was groaning a tiny hair bit in parking lots, but now its dead silent. I did intend to get strano sway bars at some point in the future.
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04-01-2020, 03:56 PM
#9
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Loads of great info here. No cooling issues. Car actually cools extremely well (so far obviously) it never runs hot at all. I will however be changing it out per your recommendations. Car is a garage queen. Rust free, more of a cruiser/fun car. As for the differential, I followed the book that came with my car. It says use the gm slip additive and synthetic 75-90. So that's what I did. It was groaning a tiny hair bit in parking lots, but now its dead silent. I did intend to get strano sway bars at some point in the future.
04-01-2020, 10:16 PM
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The PS cooler wasn't standard on all V8 models until the later years (perhaps '01, but definitely for '02), so your '98 Z28 would not have come with this automatically. It was only standard on SS/WS6/Firehawk models in the early years, and as part of certain special packages (such as the NHRA Edition Pontiacs). This feature was available under RPO "V12", but I've never seen an early base model V8 that was ordered with one. On models so equipped, it was contained within the driver's side radiator hose (requiring a two-piece hose). They are highly failure prone, and cross-contaminate the PS fluid and coolant when they fail.
04-01-2020, 10:39 PM
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I'm betting that you have a second edition owner's manual then (this information can be found near the beginning of the manual, on the bottom left hand corner of page "ii"). I ran into this same discussion with another member several years ago, he was questioning why his '98 Z28 had "issues" with LSD operation when he used aftermarket synthetic 75w90 lube. I mentioned the same thing to him that I mentioned to you above regarding the conventional 80w90 lube being required for this LSD. He then posted, just like you, that his owner's manual recommended the 75w90 synthetic. I found this to be quite strange, as my original, first edition 1998 owner's manual clearly shows 80w90 with a GM part number for NON-synthetic. Looking deeper, we discovered that his owner's manual was a second edition printing, which explained the difference. Starting in 1999, GM switched to a Torsen LSD for these models, and their lube recommendation for this new LSD changed to the 75w90 synthetic that you see above. I don't know why the second edition printing of 1998 owner's manuals shows the lube recommendation for 1999+ models but, assuming you still have the original Auburn LSD, you might find its operation to be compromised to some degree when using synthetic lube.
The PS cooler wasn't standard on all V8 models until the later years (perhaps '01, but definitely for '02), so your '98 Z28 would not have come with this automatically. It was only standard on SS/WS6/Firehawk models in the early years, and as part of certain special packages (such as the NHRA Edition Pontiacs). This feature was available under RPO "V12", but I've never seen an early base model V8 that was ordered with one. On models so equipped, it was contained within the driver's side radiator hose (requiring a two-piece hose). They are highly failure prone, and cross-contaminate the PS fluid and coolant when they fail.
The PS cooler wasn't standard on all V8 models until the later years (perhaps '01, but definitely for '02), so your '98 Z28 would not have come with this automatically. It was only standard on SS/WS6/Firehawk models in the early years, and as part of certain special packages (such as the NHRA Edition Pontiacs). This feature was available under RPO "V12", but I've never seen an early base model V8 that was ordered with one. On models so equipped, it was contained within the driver's side radiator hose (requiring a two-piece hose). They are highly failure prone, and cross-contaminate the PS fluid and coolant when they fail.
04-01-2020, 10:46 PM
#13
It worries me that the coolant is still original after 22 years. That is....not good, at all. Flushing the system (I'd do it at least twice at this point) and getting fresh coolant in place would be my number one priority. Honestly, I'm shocked there are no cooling system issues at this point, assuming it's actually still original. There is NOTHING wrong with using Dexcool in an LS1 (contrary to what some folks might think), but leaving the same antifreeze in for 22 years and nearly 50k miles is just asking for trouble, regardless of the type/brand used.
04-02-2020, 06:37 AM
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Thank you. Definitely going to do the coolant next. Any recommendation on a brand? Additives to the coolant probably a waste of time, I assume? Stuff like Redline water wetter ect.
04-02-2020, 02:50 PM
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Thank you for all of this, RPM. I know you know your stuff about these cars. Very surprising that each edition is different. I changed the diff fluid back when I got the car at 25K (ish) and back then I used synthetic. So I used it from then until the current mileage. I replaced it because very tight cornering in gas stations ect did cause a very subtle moan. After the change it is flawless once again. What are the things I need to look out for? And thanks for the PS cooler info too.
Personally, I'd recommend sticking with any Dexcool-approved brand. Actually, contrary to the beliefs of some of the "Dexcool haters", the fact that your cooling system is still working great with 22 year old antifreeze is a pretty good indicator that there is nothing wrong with the factory coolant type in this application. That said, I definitely wouldn't recommend leaving it in any longer than the factory recommended 5 year period.
04-02-2020, 03:03 PM
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All synthetic lubes aren't identical (even within the same grade), so individual fluid specifications might cause one to be more problematic than another when used with this LSD (Auburns use a cone-type clutch). Also, condition of your specific rear might play a role in how sensitive it is to lube type. Overall, the typical problems are usually related to noise/chatter or intermittent/uneven operation (tires not spinning equally). Just something to keep in mind if you notice any issues, but it sounds like you haven't seen any problems so far.
Personally, I'd recommend sticking with any Dexcool-approved brand. Actually, contrary to the beliefs of some of the "Dexcool haters", the fact that your cooling system is still working great with 22 year old antifreeze is a pretty good indicator that there is nothing wrong with the factory coolant type in this application. That said, I definitely wouldn't recommend leaving it in any longer than the factory recommended 5 year period.
Personally, I'd recommend sticking with any Dexcool-approved brand. Actually, contrary to the beliefs of some of the "Dexcool haters", the fact that your cooling system is still working great with 22 year old antifreeze is a pretty good indicator that there is nothing wrong with the factory coolant type in this application. That said, I definitely wouldn't recommend leaving it in any longer than the factory recommended 5 year period.
04-05-2020, 02:05 AM
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04-08-2020, 11:31 AM
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In addition to all of the great info above, I would replacing the fuel filter. Those are often forgotten about.
FWIW - Dex-Cool is OK in my experience but it should be changed out ever so often like 5 years or 100,000 miles which ever comes first.
The root cause of many head gasket issues for all types of cars and trucks are a result of the radiator gradually clogging up with old coolant that should have been replaced.
FWIW - Dex-Cool is OK in my experience but it should be changed out ever so often like 5 years or 100,000 miles which ever comes first.
The root cause of many head gasket issues for all types of cars and trucks are a result of the radiator gradually clogging up with old coolant that should have been replaced.