01z28228r

Looking for suggestions and experienced m6 drivers with 400whp that have been making ten bolts live while also not spinning tires at 60mph. Or is there a happy medium? I can drive, I just would rather not counter steer at 60. I currently have sumitomo HRTZ 2’s and you would swear I have 650whp.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Is you don't launch the car hard with a clutch dump or let the rear end wheel hop, you should be able to keep the 10 bolt alive with whatever tire you want.

01z28228r

I have been told with sticky tires and hard shifts that it will still blow out... I’m mean to my car. I don’t powershift but I guess I’m known for “full sends” I drop that clutch and let the tires have it when I’m banging gears.

BandDirector Blk98ZM6

iTrader: (21)

400.1 RWHP 6 speed here... I run 275/40/17 Nitto NT-05 GREAT tire for traction and performance...they're only supposed to last 10K miles or so, but I only drive 1K miles per year in my Z, so they'll dry rot before I hit that most likely...

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

If you're going to clutch sump it then I wouldn't put any decent tire on it that'll hook or youll break it. If you change your driving style you'll go faster and keep it alive.

01z28228r

those are great tires, I have a buddy with a 675whp 2017 roush stage 3 mustang gt and it dead hooks on 305 nt-05’s

01z28228r

the thing is, I could see myself changing driving styles for a few weeks... but going back to driving like an animal lol. It’s in my blood, sounds rediculous but my car is a weekend/fun only car and when I drive I give it hell. Not trying to break parts, but scaring the **** out of anyone that rides in it is a lot of fun! 😅😂😂😂

01z28228r

Here’s the issue you Guys. My tires were put on by the previous owner and are 10 years old. They were only put on 3 years ago, and were stored inside before that. So they aren’t dry rotted, but they are kind of hard. When I rip on them a few times they will start to heat up and hook up a little more. I’ve heard / read too many horror stories about dying on old tires. Loosing traction at 100+ (in Mexico of coarse) or straight up blow outs. Nitto nt555 g2’s are appealing but sound sticky. New Sumi’s HTRZ3’s are appealing, sounds like they have quality control issues. MT street comps sound stickier than Nittos... BF Goodrich G force comp 2’s same deal. I’m about to just throw on the best deal and forget about the 10 bolt. Hope it lives, but if not then it is what it is.

Bspeck82

Mt SS for a pure street car. Et streets if you go to the tracks often. Dont clutch dump it. That means you will be slow. Save up for a 9" imo.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Sumitomo?

Possible one of the Worst tires ever for traction. My step-son's 91 Z28 with a stock L98 Tune Port could roast a pair of Sumitomo 315/35R17's almost at will with ease. Same car can barely turn over a pair of 275/40R17 General Extreme Contacts.

Nitto NT05's are pretty good.
The Nitto's worked pretty well on my 418whp TA M6 w/4.10's

The NT05's are summer tires and not very good in cold weather. They also aren't that great in the rain. Otherwise they really rock!

I second the planning for a new rear end.

sokr915

iTrader: (3)

I have the Continental ExtremeContact Sport on the rear of mine and they are great. Unless I'm really trying to spin will it spin.

dannyz

I call bullshit.
He either dosent have anywhere near that hp or he feather's it BIG TIME to "dead hook".

dannyz

Ok. So sounds like you you don't drive it unless you want to have fun.
So It's not a daily.
So you most likely drive it when the pavement is dry.
Looking at what I have been hearing, why don't you take an objective look at Hoosier QTP's?
Bias ply, wrinkle wall's that soak up a lot of shock when you really dump the clutch, which goes a long ways in saving that 10 bolt.
Don't let the drama queen's scare you about rear end sway, they are fine.
And you will like the way your car come's outta the hole.

01z28228r

I agree about saving for a 9” legit just put 4 grand into my car a week ago I’m pretty broke right now lol 😂. Very much considering Mt SS or nitto nt555’s in the 275/40/zr17. Will not be tracking it any time soon and will try not to clutch dump it, just went out for a ride and tried my damndest not to dump the clutch in shifts. Still fun, just feel like I’m burning the clutch up ever so slightly. In my head the fastest release is the least amount of time the clutch has to spin

01z28228r

there’s no doubt that the sumitomo’s spin a lot. Quite honestly they aren’t that bad, especially once they heat up. Nt05’s are what’s on my buddies 675whp mustang gt with a roush stage 3 kit they HOOK.

01z28228r

I’m not sure what he does but he stomps it and they don’t spin lol. My brother has a 2014 mustang gt with a D1SC on 11.9 lbs and it puts down 650 RWHP. It spins the nitto nt555 g2’s ten times worse than I spin my sumi’s

01z28228r

never driven in the rain, only on nice days, for sure not a daily , and yes only to have fun lol. I have seen those Hoosiers wrinkle up in person, flippin wicked dude. If I ever go to the track with the intention of winning and possibly replacing parts then those will be what I put on no doubt. I would love to run an 11 on this set up.

05silgto

Well, I don't have any experience with f bodys, only my gto which has massive issues with traction stock. The biggest fix for traction for me was drag bags. When I was n/a at 380whp, I remember having to actually try to spin the tires with 275 tires in the rain. Only flooring it at a slow roll(5mph) would do it. I believe this was with Continental ExtremeContact dw (summer tire). Which is discontinued, I had to replace 2 tires after I had a blowout on one a while ago. Now I'm running the firehawk indy 500 285 on the rear. So far it seems like a very good tire and has plenty of tread left after 10,000 miles. With 540whp, 1st gear spins no matter what, 2nd gear rarely spins depending on the road.
Anyway, if your looking for the right balance to save parts I would consider the drag bags and stick to cheaper tires. With the drag bags, you can find the right balance by adjusting pressure and they help to reduce wheel hop which also saves parts.

tberg725

If you want traction with your 6spd and want to help your 10bolt last stay away from drag radials and go with a soft wall slick that way the side wall takes a good part of the hit

mstansbury0704

Imo I’ve had the comp 2s and they are okay for a street tire. Tbh though with a modded 6 speed it’s traction or 10 bolt. Pick one and don’t expect the other. Lol I’ve been through two 10 bolts. Don’t even rebuild it when it goes unless absolutely have to. girdled and all mine popped with 10k miles on a mild 5k rpm 2-3 shift.. It’s a waste of time and money. However like I said I used to run the comp 2s and will be swapping them back on my car in the colder months and throwing my nittos in the basement...the comp 2s are a good street tire and do okay in the rain from my xp