TA_Freak

Thanks for the responses. The owner didn't expect that response from me. He says that he's been driving the TA like a daily driver and tweaking things as he went.. He didn't experience having to stand on the brakes to stop it. I'm giving him the benefit of the doubt and will give me a chance to make it right.
The code is a PO327. What bites is that the shop is 60 some odd miles away from me and I really don't have the time to drive it back out. I am going to tow it him Thursday hopefully.

I'm not worried about the electrical issue. He pulled the headlight fuses due to one of the motors worm gear most likely worn; I have rebuilt those a while back with brass gears.

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Glad you're sorting this with Josh. He is a good dude and his street tune on my old setup was perfect. I am about 10 min from Woodstock. If nothing else, lets grab a beer and stare at our 20yr old cars...

TA_Freak

That's cool. I wouldn't mind checking out that SS.

TA_Freak

I wouldn't mind talking to you about tuning my TA elsewhere. At this point, I need a tuner closer to home. I just don't have the time to go back to Auburn, nor do I ever want to make that drive from Woodstock, especially in the TA!! It would probably be cheaper to get it tuned locally than to tow it to Auburn. I don't have AAA anymore; they fired me. I guess you can't use all your tows every year!

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Sorry to hear everything wasn't fully sorted the first time around. That's often part of modding cars with a heads & cam or engine rebuild. Josh has been a stand up guy in all of my dealing with him in the past. I think he'll get things resolved for you.

Listened to the video, valve train (over cell phone) sounds pretty typical of ~.600 lift cam and fast ramp cam etc to me...about like my prior XER heads & cam set up. The higher idle hides some of the cam lope. With a revised tune the car will greatly improve in manners but probably it won't be quiet as docile as the stock C6.

Once had an issue where a shop criss crossed the vacuum line for the brake booster & the PVC on an LSXRT intake. The brake issue might be similar or need for fluid change and bleed etc. In other works very minor to correct.

Once fully sorted the car will be a blast Wish you the best with project.

TA_Freak

It's all good. It's all going to get sorted out. I guess the valve clatter caught be by surprise because the cam in my Pontiac 400 has similar specs (although not as much lift) - plus I have chevy rocker studs and locking nuts so I can get the proper lash. I do understand that the LS is a much different beast than my Pontiac.
Interesting about the vacuum line issue what you once had. Not saying that that was my case, but the brakes felt as though the vacuum assist was less due to most likely less vacuum with that cam than what I had with the stock LS. That and it sticking at 1000 RPMs made it difficult to stop. It would drive itself if I just took my foot off the accelerator.

TA_Freak

Here are the specs for the cam: 226/232 .600/.600 113 LSA 108 ICL +5°
I don't think that my XE268 in the Firebird has near that much lift.

TA_Freak

There is a punch list that the shop is going to take care of. They'll pick up the car week after Thanksgiving. Here's a short clip of a cold start:

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for sharing. Please update us once you get the car back. Sounds mean!

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

That cam should have good manners

Looking forward to seeing updates after Thanksgiving. Happy Turkey Day!

TA_Freak

Will do!

Yeah ... I'm looking forward to finally getting back to driving it. Happy Turkey Day as well!

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

In old school terms, it sounds like it's "loading up" at idle - overly rich. Some tuning on the idle airflow, VE, and MAF tables should get that corrected. Happy Thanksgiving!

pdxmotorhead

I used to work at a shop that specialized in road race track cars as a part time gig,,
we would get cars in and pull the engine to send out to the customers choice of builder,
then process the tub to a roller track car,, more times than I liked the brake booster gave up ,,,
split diaphragm or jammed valve, lines dried out we started tossing the whole brake
master assembly and replacing new as part of a build unless the car already had something special.

Also,, big cams = low vacuum often = sucky brake assist.
So we often did full manual brake conversions with Wilwood parts.

Good luck!!!!

TA_Freak

You're talking my language. I'm a q-jet guy.
Happy Thanksgiving!

TA_Freak

There's a lot of good points. The master cylinder and brake booster are original as are the vacuum lines under the hood. I've replaced the PCV hoses, but that's about it. Everything was fine before the build, but I could see where hoses, etc ... are stressed being moved out of the way as work is being done.

TA_Freak

Here is a short clip of the TA idling after I took it out for a short drive. It is idling good .... but needs attention. In my mind it's the equivalent of a choke pull off issue where when cold it races too high ... but then after the 4 mile drive it was at over 1k shifting from drive to reverse to back it into the driveway.

Utinator

It sounds like it's idling too high. It could either be a small vacuum leak, or it needs to be tuned. The idle is easy to adjust in HP Tuners. The throttle blade might be a sticking open too.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Are you getting the "cruise control" effect where there is a constant 1200-1300rpm idle while cruising and when coming to a stop? Then, after coming to a stop, it gradually comes down? The most notable symptom is that the revs don't drop when lifting off the throttle.

I've had this problem a few times due to vacuum leaks, battery disconnects, tuning, or other issues. I did the various drive cycle relearn procedures with little success. It just took a whole lotta drive time after correcting the initial problem for the learned idle settings to take hold.

I'm suggesting that regular driving over several weeks time may alleviate your symptoms as the PCM adjusts to your setup.

TA_Freak

That's exactly what is happening. I've heard that term "cruise control". I looked things over pretty closely this past weekend and didn't see any vacuum leaks... or other issues - although the PO327 cleared itself and came back on it's own. Actually I'm assuming that's what the code is; I'll pull it this afternoon.
The shop is planning to pick up the car "after thanksgiving" ... which is now. I changed the oil this weekend and filled the gas. Maybe I should drive it work tomorrow .... that's a 80 mile round trip drive. I'll certainly do a drive cycle then.

TA_Freak

Well I drove the TA to work this morning. It was actually a ride that I enjoyed. It runs very strong and is loud! Most of my 40 miles in is on the highway. What really put a smile on my face was when the cruise control worked ... and I'm not talking about the aforementioned effect. The only knock I really have is that there is the high RPM when coming to a stop. No pun intended but also the knock sensor code. My brakes felt just fine so that can be marked off of the list. It's rides so much different with the sub frame connectors. It also felt like I was so high up compared to that C6 that I've been driving - and that TA is lowered.