Another thermostat question 
Another thermostat question
I think the stock thermostat is 180-195. You shouldn't need to change out the thermostat for a colder one, but if you want to, you can. You don't "need" to reprogram the PCM, but the fan settings are based on the stock thermostat.
T-stat has nothing to do with the PCM, if its a 180*, it will open at 180* and start the coolant trade between the engine and radiator, and cooler coolant will flow into the engine and the hot coolant from the engine will flow into the radiator. Nothing needs to be done with the PCM unless you want your fans to come on at a different temp.
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Verdad Gallardo Alright, look pal, NO PCM dyno tune needed AND NO resetting of the fans are necassary. If you want to you could reset the fans to come on at a lower temp than stock, but if you do I would put a 160* t-stat in, otherwise just leave the fans alone and let the 180* t-stat do the work.
j/k Do just the t-stat and you're good to go.
Any more ******* questions..... j/k again lol I'm on a roll.
j/k Do just the t-stat and you're good to go.
Any more ******* questions..... j/k again lol I'm on a roll.
The stock 'stat is the same as the "180" you'd buy,
changing it out for any reason besides failure or
insane boost / compression ratio is a mistake.
All you need is decent fan settings, and to clean
the radiator and condenser of debris every so
often (airflow is -the- problem). You will gain
nothing from cooler water, even if the 'stat would
give it to you when you really needed it. But a
hot radiator has no cool to give, and a system
where the thermostat is not in control is too
variable to tune well or get consistent performance.
changing it out for any reason besides failure or
insane boost / compression ratio is a mistake.
All you need is decent fan settings, and to clean
the radiator and condenser of debris every so
often (airflow is -the- problem). You will gain
nothing from cooler water, even if the 'stat would
give it to you when you really needed it. But a
hot radiator has no cool to give, and a system
where the thermostat is not in control is too
variable to tune well or get consistent performance.
I changed to a 160 thermostat and used HPtuners to change my fan settings. Prior to this my car saw temps of 220+ after a hard WOT pass, now it never breaks 185 and most of the time is between 175 and 178 or so. Which do you think your aluminum block and heads enjoy more, 180 degrees or 220+ degrees?
Last edited by tording99Z28; Feb 17, 2009 at 04:34 AM.
I changed to a 160 thermostat and used HPtuners to change my fan settings. Prior to this my car saw temps of 220+ after a hard WOT pass, now it never breaks 185 and most of the time is between 175 and 178 or so. Which do you think your aluminum block and heads enjoy more, 180 degrees or 220+ degrees?
But like "jimmyblue" said....the key with F-Body's is to keep the condensor clean. I do it as general maintenance every couple years and its friggin dirty as hell with debris each time. It doesn't only keep the A/C system running at its peak (coolness) but it will in turn keep the radiator getting its required amount of airflow.
Engines aren't intended to run cool...neither for emissions or power reasons. Ideally you would want the cylinder head as hot as possible and the intake charge as cold as possible for optimum combustion. Hot cylinder head aids in combustion (you want to avoid it being so hot that you get preignition or knock)...cold intake charge is more dense and makes more power.
Ignore the hype...there's no need to lower the thermostat opening temp. Not that you would hurt anything with a cooler thermostat...you just won't see any benefit.
As others have said...if you are overheating, it's more likely a problem with airflow through the radiator, dying waterpump, or just a faulty thermostat.
Ignore the hype...there's no need to lower the thermostat opening temp. Not that you would hurt anything with a cooler thermostat...you just won't see any benefit.
As others have said...if you are overheating, it's more likely a problem with airflow through the radiator, dying waterpump, or just a faulty thermostat.
I don't fully agree with the above comment. There is a point yes that if the engine ran too cool it would not allow for proper combustion but we are talking the engine would have to be down in the 140's and 150's I bet. As long as you are hitting the 180 mark. The benefit may not be in the performance but it will be in the longevity of the motor. Aluminum likes to warp after being exposed to high temperatures. Heat is the number one killer of all mechanical components especially in an engine. If the motor is running cooler then that means the internal components are also seeing lower temperatures. Not to mention other things in the engine bay that surround the motor are seeing less ambient heat from the motor. While the gain may not be in performance I am still going to see there are quite a few benefits to running your engine at 180 degrees instead of 220 degrees.
I don't fully agree with the above comment. There is a point yes that if the engine ran too cool it would not allow for proper combustion but we are talking the engine would have to be down in the 140's and 150's I bet. As long as you are hitting the 180 mark. The benefit may not be in the performance but it will be in the longevity of the motor. Aluminum likes to warp after being exposed to high temperatures. Heat is the number one killer of all mechanical components especially in an engine. If the motor is running cooler then that means the internal components are also seeing lower temperatures. Not to mention other things in the engine bay that surround the motor are seeing less ambient heat from the motor. While the gain may not be in performance I am still going to see there are quite a few benefits to running your engine at 180 degrees instead of 220 degrees.
Also, even though its not good for springs and some other things, anyone who has started a cold engine and IMMEDIATELY pulled out and mashed the pedal to do a WOT run......it feels more powerful than after an engine gets to operating temp. So combustion is just fine when its 100 degrees.