Where did this piece come from?? (found inside door)
#1
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So my driver side window wasnt going up all the way, and was turning sideways so i pulled off the door panel to find that 2 bolts holding the motor in were GONE and one other was just in place with no nut on the back, and the fiberglass now has huge holes! (see pictures below) Its a 97 TA...
I looked in the door panel for the nuts/bolts, but all i found was this... anyone know where it goes and if it has anything to do with the window motor?
![](https://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs191.snc1/6409_99403717863_502977863_2189632_1771906_n.jpg)
The wondow does work now (for the most part) I ended up putting new bolts in to hold the motor in place with larger washers and an additional bolt under them in the cracked fiberglass to keep the motor from moving around and causing problems again.
Has anyone ever seen this!?!?! look specifically at the 2 left holes for the motor mount, and the middle hole that holds the metal bracket.
I looked in the door panel for the nuts/bolts, but all i found was this... anyone know where it goes and if it has anything to do with the window motor?
![](https://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs191.snc1/6409_99403717863_502977863_2189632_1771906_n.jpg)
The wondow does work now (for the most part) I ended up putting new bolts in to hold the motor in place with larger washers and an additional bolt under them in the cracked fiberglass to keep the motor from moving around and causing problems again.
Has anyone ever seen this!?!?! look specifically at the 2 left holes for the motor mount, and the middle hole that holds the metal bracket.
![](https://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs191.snc1/6409_99403712863_502977863_2189631_2338696_n.jpg)
#3
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when puting bolts through fiberglass like that its a good idea to use washers so the head of the bolt dont crack or cut the fiberglass.
that looks like some sort of tension spring to me.
that looks like some sort of tension spring to me.
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that is the spring off the window regulator, you have to take the regulator out, take the motor off and reclock the spring, kinda interesting to do. (spring will like to fly out and kill you) And yes the door is like that from bolts. Mine was the same way when i pulled it apart last year. USE THE RIGHT SIZE RIVETS OR IT WILL FUBAR THE MOUNTING POINTS ON YOUR DOOR.
#5
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rpmauto is correct, thats the tension spring from the window regulator. on my pass side i just needed the motor, about $50-$60. on my driver side i had to do the regulator as well. everybody i talked to about replacing window motors and regulators said that if you have to replace the regulator, then just get the motor/regulator that comes already assembled (dont want that spring under tension flying at you when you try to put it together, seriously). and thats what i did. i think it was around $120ish from the dealer for the gm replacement motor and regulator, not too hard to do.
follow the sticky on how to replace. goodluck
follow the sticky on how to replace. goodluck
#6
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With only two bolts holding your regulator in, you are lilkely going to have problems with your window very soon. (The last two bolts will tear through the fiberglass like your first two did.)
You might want to check out this thread for a good fix: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
You might want to check out this thread for a good fix: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-included.html
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Well i have new bolts/nuts/washers holding on all 4 sides in place now... but now that 3 of my 4 mounting points are destroyed, can i move the whole assembly about 1/4 inch left & down so that i can use rivits in brand new holes? Or i may need 1/2 inch so i dont stress to close the existing damaged ones.
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Well i have new bolts/nuts/washers holding on all 4 sides in place now... but now that 3 of my 4 mounting points are destroyed, can i move the whole assembly about 1/4 inch left & down so that i can use rivits in brand new holes? Or i may need 1/2 inch so i dont stress to close the existing damaged ones.
You can also get an aftermarket regulator which uses some of your undamaged holes, (I installed one) but I don't believe it bypasses all of the holes. (Just 1 or 2)