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Need new battery......which one....

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Old 12-17-2009, 08:51 PM
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Default Need new battery......which one....

I have a 5 year old AC Delco....its starting to die off slowly. I just got back from a 7-day trip and it almost died completely. I used to be able to leave it for a month at a time with no drianing at all.


So...who has had good luck with WHAT brand battery???

.
Old 12-17-2009, 09:06 PM
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you might need to replace it but check first....on a dark night sit inside the car and close the door check for signs of a power draw, something might be causing it to drain. but if its just the battery being old.....just get a redtop. almost everyone has one one here
Old 12-17-2009, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Taken4granted
you might need to replace it but check first....on a dark night sit inside the car and close the door check for signs of a power draw, something might be causing it to drain. but if its just the battery being old.....just get a redtop. almost everyone has one one here
I've heard those red tops were good.

How do you identify a power draw in the dark with the door closed???

.
Old 12-17-2009, 09:37 PM
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Don't even bother testing the battery out. After 3 or 4 years your typical car battery is well on its way out; you got 5 out of it so you definitely got your money's worth. I don't see what the deal is with those nuclear-looking red-top optima thingies that cost an arm and a leg. I mean, it's a battery for god's sake, it just needs to start the car not power a nuclear submarine. I normally go to Sears and buy their Diehard brand. Even down the road if the battery starts to go bad they'll replace it for you at a pro-rated charge...

If you wanna test if you have a drain of some sort, try this:

Pull the positive cable off of the battery, w/ the key off.


Put a multi-meter in-line with the battery cable and the post you just removed it from. Set it to current (Amps).


If it shows any reading, something is draining it (i.e.- the battery is probably good). Make sure all the doors, etc. are closed, so nothing could be causing a drain, such as the dome light.


If the voltage meter does show a drain, then pull the fuses one by one, and see if any one of them makes a difference. If you pull one, and the meter goes to zero, the offending item is on that circuit. Get out the shop manual and look at the wiring diagrams to see what is on that circuit.


If you pull one, and it drops significantly but not all the way to zero, then you may have more than one bad part and will need to repeat the following steps more than once, for multiple circuits.

Last edited by myk; 12-17-2009 at 09:43 PM.
Old 12-17-2009, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by myk
Don't even bother testing the battery out. After 3 or 4 years your typical car battery is well on its way out; you got 5 out of it so you definitely got your money's worth. I don't see what the deal is with those nuclear-looking red-top optima thingies that cost an arm and a leg. I mean, it's a battery for god's sake, it just needs to start the car not power a nuclear submarine. I normally go to Sears and buy their Diehard brand. Even down the road if the battery starts to go bad they'll replace it for you at a pro-rated charge...

If you wanna test if you have a drain of some sort, try this:

Pull the positive cable off of the battery, w/ the key off.


Put a multi-meter in-line with the battery cable and the post you just removed it from. Set it to current (Amps).


If it shows any reading, something is draining it (i.e.- the battery is probably good). Make sure all the doors, etc. are closed, so nothing could be causing a drain, such as the dome light.


If the voltage meter does show a drain, then pull the fuses one by one, and see if any one of them makes a difference. If you pull one, and the meter goes to zero, the offending item is on that circuit. Get out the shop manual and look at the wiring diagrams to see what is on that circuit.


If you pull one, and it drops significantly but not all the way to zero, then you may have more than one bad part and will need to repeat the following steps more than once, for multiple circuits.
I don't have the volt meter but tomorrow I'll take it over to my friend at the dealership and have him do it. I'll get a battery if needed or track down the problem.

Thanks man..........

.
Old 12-17-2009, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
I've heard those red tops were good.

How do you identify a power draw in the dark with the door closed???

.


sit inside the car and look for any thing that might be lit, and its probably time for a new one. as far as red tops go they last longer, are spill proof, yes they cost an arm and a leg, I got free replacement for 3 years, need to check my receipt but im pretty sure, short time to recharge if needed. go to website and read the testimonials, do the same for diehard...etc. and choose
Old 12-17-2009, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Taken4granted
sit inside the car and look for any thing that might be lit, and its probably time for a new one. as far as red tops go they last longer, are spill proof, yes they cost an arm and a leg, I got free replacement for 3 years, need to check my receipt but im pretty sure, short time to recharge if needed. go to website and read the testimonials, do the same for diehard...etc. and choose
So close the doors with everything off...key out of the ignition totally. I might see something that is "ON".....???


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Old 12-17-2009, 10:21 PM
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Holy ****..........just looked at my battery with a flashlight.....I wanted to see if I could see an exact date of purchase on it.

I see some white acid **** down by the bottom of where the battery sits. Looks like its forming on the plastic over-flow tank that it sits on top of. Its on the drivers side of the battery at the bottom.

Guess it sprung a leak recently. Time for a new one.

5 years...I guess I did get my moneys worth.

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Old 12-17-2009, 10:24 PM
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Which Red Top should I get?

What amperage/volts.....whatever?

Whats up with the Yellow Top??? Just read about them both...the red top has 720 and 910 cranking amps...to the yellows 650 and 810.

Whats the best one to use??? They both offer 3 yr, free replacement.

.

Last edited by LS6427; 12-17-2009 at 10:31 PM.
Old 12-18-2009, 12:54 AM
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75/25 is the type you need, red or yellow depends on you. yellows are deep cycle and cost a bit more then reds. you need to take that battery out and wash that area before it kills your paint or anything else for that matter.
Old 12-18-2009, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Taken4granted
75/25 is the type you need, red or yellow depends on you. yellows are deep cycle and cost a bit more then reds. you need to take that battery out and wash that area before it kills your paint or anything else for that matter.
I have a can of battery acid nuetralizer. I sprayed it all over it for now. Its raining like a bitch here. Tomorrow I'll pull the battery and over-flow reservoir and scrub the whole area with a brush.

Thanks.........

.
Old 12-18-2009, 01:02 AM
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no prob
Old 12-18-2009, 05:53 AM
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Optimas are junk. Their quality has gone down the past few years, they last no longer than a regular wet cell battery. Get a die hard platinum. Its basically a rebadged Odyssey. 4 year free replacement warranty. the 75/86 is the one you need, its $190
Old 12-18-2009, 07:30 AM
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The number one reason I use Optima is for the spill proof benefit. I have heard that the quality has gone down hill lately, I don't know as my red top in the Camaro and my Yellow top in the Jeep have both been great. I do know they have gotten more expensive over the years.
Old 12-20-2009, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
Optimas are junk. Their quality has gone down the past few years, they last no longer than a regular wet cell battery. Get a die hard platinum. Its basically a rebadged Odyssey. 4 year free replacement warranty. the 75/86 is the one you need, its $190
Why would you get a wet cell that costs almost $60 more than an Optima? I bought a Red Top a few months ago because my AC Delco was dying and leaking battery acid. The terminal was so corroded that the entire terminal came out with the screw when I removed it. I found a Red Top for $135 on Amazon. Cranks perfect every time, and I'm glad I don't have to worry about acid leakage or corrosion now.
Old 12-20-2009, 04:56 PM
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Yeah, that really is the biggest benefit of a red top/yellow top, no spilling of battery juices causing nasty *** corrosion.
Old 12-20-2009, 08:19 PM
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I think mine is dripping acid from that little tiny vent.

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Old 12-20-2009, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ncfastls1
Why would you get a wet cell that costs almost $60 more than an Optima? I bought a Red Top a few months ago because my AC Delco was dying and leaking battery acid. The terminal was so corroded that the entire terminal came out with the screw when I removed it. I found a Red Top for $135 on Amazon. Cranks perfect every time, and I'm glad I don't have to worry about acid leakage or corrosion now.
the Die Hard Platinum isnt a wet cell... its the next step up from Optimas. Its a better construction than the Spiral Cell design Optima uses
Old 12-20-2009, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
the Die Hard Platinum isnt a wet cell... its the next step up from Optimas. Its a better construction than the Spiral Cell design Optima uses
In your opinion do you think the Die Hard Platinum is the best battery available? Forget about cost.

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Old 12-20-2009, 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LS6427
In your opinion do you think the Die Hard Platinum is the best battery available? Forget about cost.

.
yes. the warranty is better, they last longer and perform better. as i said, they are odyssey batteries. i handle batteries a lot and i have never seen an optima last more than 4 years, regardless of what color it is. wet cells last longer than that.



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