its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

Im getting a p0449 code thrown and another p0449 code pending ever since i swapped to my 46 lb. svo injectors.

When i initially swapped them one of the injectors wasn't quite connected all the way so when i started the engine there was a definite missfire. so after playing around with it i fixed the injector and it seems to run really strong, but now the codes have been thrown and i gotta get new plates this month! so i can't have a SES

what i found out about the code is that it relates to the evap canister on the driver side valve cover. the guy at auto(clown)zone said that there could be fuel in the sensor and its not able to operate.

What im wondering is what could i have done to that canister while swapping injectors? Something i did while i was swapping them? or did it screw it up when it ran with the one injector not firing? or something completely unrelated?

HELP!

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

Check the electrical connections. Its not a canister its a solenoid. And is very replaceable.

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

^is this one of the many lovely 98 only sensors that can only be gotten from a dealer?? i hope not, i've got o'reilly's trying to track down the right part right now.

i figured i'd ask here though too, cuz it seems like everytime i try and fix something on my car without consulting the boards i end up wasting money on something i don't need or making things worse.

thanks for the reply and the info

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic8703.php

Check the Eng Ctrl fuse.

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

^wow, thats a lot of info! is that fuse in the fuse box labeled "eng ctrl" im guessing?

thanks

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

the vacuum line that runs from the intake to the solenoid, seems a little loose. like it will stay attached but i can move it around on the nozzle of the vaccuum port of the intake quite a bit...could i just put a vaccuum rubber hose on there and see if that fixes it?

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

Everyone I have messed with has been fairly loose. BTW at autozone the solenoid is

part number PV146

Price:
$22.99.

A 22 dollar guess isnt bad if you want to go that route. I wouldnt replace it with vacuum line IMO. That controls some pressure on the fuel system and many people have had issues with removing it or having it go bad, people havent been able to fill up there tank before because of air.

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

^thanks! im glad i asked about that, otherwise i probably would have put vacuum line on there.

the part is supposed to be in tomorrow morning, hopefully thats it. checked the fuse and its good

Joshiedoom

iTrader: (4)

Hopefully thats it,worse comes to worse you will have to look for a damaged wire or short near where the injectors go.

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

solenoid didn't fix it. grrr...guess its time to start looking for shorts...

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

i forgot to mention...a few months ago my car smelled like gas a few times when i'd park it.

i completely forgot about this because i haven't noticed it for a while but i figured it could be relavent.

neutron82

iTrader: (26)

did you clear all the codes after you replaced it??... i replaced that evap purge solenoid on mine once but it never threw any codes it just made a really loud clicking sound that bugged the hell out of me

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

never cleared the codes, i pulled my ground off my battery for like 20 minutes thinking that would do the trick, but like an idiot i started it and walked away without looking and by the time i came back the light was on...don't know if it was off and then came on or if it never cleared it at all.

should that have cleared it?

i figured it would eventually clear itself if the solenoid was the problem and i've put about 100 miles since the replace and its still there.

neutron82

iTrader: (26)

yeah sometimes that will not get the codes completely cleared, it will reset the readiness tests but i have had codes pop right back up... turn the ignition to the "on" position then remove the 10A "pcm bat" fuse and the 15A "pcm ign" fuse from the fuse boxes under the hood and leave the key in the "on" position for about 10-15 mins then put the fuses back in and make sure to leave the key where it is and that should totally clear all of your codes... then start it up and let it learn it's idle until the fans come on and give it a test drive and see what happens... it might run a little hokey when you first start it back up but that's because it has to relearn all your fuel trims and such... it will not reset the tune in the pcm so no need to worry about that

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

thanks! im gonna do that when i get home

what about just unplugging the two pcm connectors? would that do the trick too?

neutron82

iTrader: (26)

i'm not sure, possibly?... i was just told to do it the way i explained so i stuck to that... did you also check the wires to the connector to make sure they aren't loose?

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

the connectors are on the solenoid good, but the wires beyond that im not sure yet, im planning on checking them as much as possible tonight when i reset my pcm. thanks again tho

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

how does the method you describe for deleting codes compare to using an obd2 scanner and deleting them with that? same thing?

neutron82

iTrader: (26)

yeah i think a scan tool would be the same if you have access to one

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

reset the pcm but the code came back on after i drove it twice, i checked the wires off of the solenoid around the injectors and i didn't see anything out of place.

i tried looking at that gearchatter website and honestly i can't decipher half of the jargon they use. And the wiring diagram is too fuzzy to even read.

where do all the wires run to that i should check? if you can give me a description of where instead of a name of some circuit solenoid dohickey that would be great!