RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

With an auto transmission, there are obviously friction materials inside that wear (as a product of their design) and thus are grabbed by a filter. But I'm not sure that I can see any need for a filter in the PS system.

SSTODD

I recently completed this mod and have been very happy.

My 2000 SS steering would feel like the power assist was gone at very low speeds when warm before this mod, it feels much better now.

This is a 22k mile original owner car and the steering felt this way since day one.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Glad it worked out for you!

I'll actually be putting my steering system (among other things) to the test next month as I'll be doing a road course event. We'll see how things go!

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Since this thread is back up top, I just have a small update about my coolerless setup. I've been driving it this way since early spring and everything has been great. System function has been fine with no new noises or problems, even on the hottest of days. No boil-overs of any kind - in fact, the minor seepage that always used to leave some residue around the top of the reservoir has not re-appeared since I deleted the stock cooler.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I hate you.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Haha.

I think regular fluid maintanence also helps with this. I've never done a complete flush on this system (didn't need to since I deleted the cooler before it started leaking), but I've made it a habit to extract and refill the reservoir usually with every oil change - which at least allows some amount of fresh fluid to be continually introduced. I've also been doing this with my factory-coolerless '98 for many years, and never had any seepage with that one either.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

^^^ I think this has the biggest impact on reducing reservoir spooge around the rim.

My expectation would also be that improved cooling will help older fluid last longer, but that's a hard one to prove. (particularly in a time frame that fits within my attention span)

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I still have the seeping even after performing this mod and adding new fluid -- and the car might have 500 miles since I removed the factory cooler.

With that said, I never replaced the cap to see if that would help. The only thing I can possibly think is that I overfilled the reservoir. I'm going to flush and refill again before my track day outing, though.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i reduced seepage on mine by simply keeping the oil level at the bottom of the add mark

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

since you have no cooler, think you could measure reservoir temps and post what your hottest readings are?
if you don't have a temp thing, i bought this digital meat thermometer from walmart for $10 and it works really good for everything. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-...0641W/14913168

we had some really humid days this past month well into the 90's and i measured mine having that dinky copper cooler under the radiator and the most the power steering reservoir ever measured was 185°. I know the coolant was over 220° F from checking with my handheld scanner.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I actually already did this for the sake of data collection. If you check back to page 18 of the thread, you'll find a few posts where I provided detailed info about my temp observations under specific conditions. Hope that helps.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

You should use post number, not page number. My settings show this thread is 10 pages.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Post number 343 and 354 are of particular interest. I've made several posts in regards and response to the testing/data questions though, so if anyone is interested in all the associated information they will need to stift through several posts over the pages before and after the post numbers referenced.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

you have to be careful using a laser IR gun to measure temperature of things. the different readings you noticed are due to emissivity of the surface you are measuring. shiny metal has a lower emissivity so you need to program the IR gun (if capable) and tell it it's measuring a low-e part of 0.4 or something. rubber hoses and other black non metallic surfaces will have higher emissivity around 0.9. so if your gun was set to an e of 0.9 and you're measuring a metal part that's 0.5 your gun is reporting an incorrect temperature. i can't remember which way it goes if its reporting an incorrectly lower or higher temp. and for that you want a thermocouple to know the surface temp then you cal your ir gun and put in the emissivity that then shows the same temp. also, if your hood is up and your measuring an aluminum part and it's getting hit by the sun the sunlight may be reflected energy and throw off the gun's measurement.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

There was no sunlight hitting the parts in question during the temp measurements (shaded area of the driveway).

There is no shiny metal on the PS cooler (matte finish).

I am not sure of the calibration of this particular gun, or if it can be changed, but the fluid temp readings were taken with a fluid temp thermometer inserted into the PS reservior. So the fluid readings I posted would not be affected by this either way.

I could test the gun with it's current calibration (which is still the same as it was during the prior tests) on a metal container filled with liquid. I could then also test the fluid temp inside this container to inspect for any difference. This could be a reference point for the prior results that I posted.

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Ok so I'm bringing this thread back up....

So now my car has been having power steering issues. I had a leaky steering rack so I replaced it. Now the steering is almost rock solid to turn when standing still, I have to get the car moving a bit for it to turn. So I assume air is still present in the system....right??

Now I'm going to add a P/S cooler and wanted to know if I should flush the system prior to adding the cooler, or mount the cooler/lines/etc.. then do the system flush?

Also what are some part numbers on the coolers you guys are using? Thanks in advance!

P.S. I do NOT have the factory p/s cooler.....thank god lol

Macwars

If you don't have to drive the car before mounting your Cooler ... no need to do it before .. as long as you will open the lines .. better do it once !!

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

Did you bleed the power steering system, and if so how did you do it?

tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

After I installed the steering rack, I topped off the p/s reservoir with fluid. With the front end in the air, I turned the steering wheel from lock to lock 20 times. I seen a few small bubble coming out at that time. I then took it for a test drive. Put it back in the air and did the same procedure again. Did all this and still hard to turn at stand still

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Your pump assembly may be bad. How old is it?