tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Honestly I'm not too sure. I bought the car about 3 months ago but the motor has 106k on it

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

The pump is actually pretty cheap, i picked one up from Autozone in 2009 and have had it on the car ever since. i have never had a problem with mine.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I had forgotten all about this until I recently noticed that this thread was active again.

Anyway, I had some time tonight so I performed the test. I heated a metal pot (same matte finish as the stock PS cooler) filled with water to about 204°F, as per the fluid temp thermometer. I removed the pot from the heating source and placed it on a cool table. I then allowed it to cool and equalize the internal and external temps for a quick moment, at which point the water temp dropped to 200°F. I then took a reading from the outside of the pot, below the water line, with the IR gun (same calibration as for the PS cooler tests earlier this year), which showed exactly 198.8°F. So it seems that the readings were pretty accurate for metal.

sleepinghawk

Well I was so impressed with all the reading of these 21 pages plus all the other pages that also got referred that last night at midnight I ordered a PS cooler. I orderd one, so I won't have to worry about the factory going out and mixing with the radiator fluid. I got the Perma Cool 1006. My air dam is stainless so the frame rail fits me great.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

This thread certainly has the tendency to suck a person right in

sleepinghawk

Yes it does!It has good info, and anything to make my car better and last, I'll change.
I just wish I would of found this thread years ago!

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Amazes me not on this car line only but across all of them especially diesels we get in the shop just how much trouble we have with fluid to water coolers and yet nothing changes you would think after a year of having problems some engineer would go hmm we better fix this.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Engineers like water-to-water coolers because they are more efficient. Accountants like water-to-water coolers because they are cheap. Neither has to deal with the consequences of the choice. We have all sorts of pain, but it pales to the folks at nuclear power plants who have to worry about irradiated water/steam mixing with clean cooling water.




They did - they just shut down the entire factory. Problem solved.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I think its money related. They probably spent millions on a contract with X company to create X amount of radiators/PS coolers. Plus then there's the customer bringing their car into the shop to fix the issue, making mo $.

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

Ooooh do I know the battle started out with gm as a powertrain engineer out of college. The problem was I grew up in our dealership though and saw many of their stupid ideas first hand when the other engineers I worked with didn't know the difference from a torx socket to a torque wrench. They are all the works on paper should work great in the real world type. Hands on engineers that come from the trench's in the field they are working in are a hard to find breed these day's.

First LT1 we saw left me scratching my head knowing what was going to happen to the distributor only because my dad and I were and are into restoring old cars and the 35' Ford Flathead V8's had the exact same problem as the LT1 when the water pumps would start leaking.

black79transam

A bit of a bump but I just removed my factory cooler and replaced it with a cooler from napa. All said it was about 60 bucks counting the upper radiator hose. I did have to replace my lines as they were not anywhere near being long enough to reach the new cooler.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Just figured I'd update my power steering cooler status... I decided to remove the Derale cooler I put on last year when I deleted the OE cooler. I notice absolutely no difference without it. So, I'll stand by my anecdotal assessment that all one needs is the upper radiator hose from a non-PSC car to alleviate this issue rather than going through the hassle of installing an aftermarket cooler. It's also nice not having those extra hoses running under there

2000dreambird

why isn't this a sticky??????

ORPHAN-ANNIE

iTrader: (1)

What is the new perma-cool part # that replaced 1003?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I just ran my car up over a curb in (what is hopefully the last of the season) a snowstorm and demolished my Perma-Cool cooler. Evidently, it does not support the weight of the whole car sitting on it...

I asked the body shop switching out the rear end and wheels I also tore up to just bypass the cooler and get me on the road. My insurance company refused and said since I have a cooler on the car, it has to be replaced before the car can be released back to me. So, I found that Perma-Cools are for sale again and I'll be getting the new 1004 to replace my old 1003. I'm not sure what the difference is, but they look identical: http://perma-cool.com/catalog.pdf#page=5

Maybe the new version is stronger and can support the weight of the car???

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I agree, based on all my test results posted earlier in the thread, I see no reason for a cooler on a non-competition application in a northern climate. I had mine deleted for over a year before selling the car, and the pump (which was already weak and making some noise LONG before deleting the cooler) was still working.

I hope that you are never again faced with the opportunity to test this.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Trying to knock this out over the long weekend and have a few questions.

I went with the Derale 13224 frame mount cooler, picked up a new Dayco upper radiator hose without the cooler and extra 3/8" heater hose.

My rub is that I can't figure out how to bolt the frame mount onto the frame. Derale recommends just drilling a 9/32" hole in the frame, push the bolt through and tighten the nut and washer down on the other side. The rub is that there's no way I can see to actually get my hands on that to tighten it. The fan shrouds above prevent access from the top and I'm left with only a couple small holes pre-drilled into the frame rail....seems awfully tough to squeeze a couple fingers in there to try and tighten things up. Anyone have any tips for this?

I read the entire thread and did see the idea of drilling a pilot hole and then installing a self-tapping screw on the passenger side mount. I'm OK going that route, however I still don't have a solution to get the driver side mounted up well.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I used self tapping sheet metal screws.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! I'll give them a shot and see how they hold up.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

are the factory rubber tubes long enought to mount a small cooler behind the air dam?