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2001 trans am a/c issues

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Old Jun 5, 2012 | 11:29 PM
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Default 2001 trans am a/c issues

Hey guys im kinda new here but i have a 2001 trans am thay has a two way switch for the fans. Up is high and down is low of course and it doesnt throw a ses light or anything this way but i dont believe it is a actual aftermarket wiring system..more like whoever owned it before me wired it up. It works fine but ehat i dont get it my a/c is charged, clutch moves freely and when first turn it on you can hear it click but wont blow cold air or drag motor down like compressor is engaged. Could this be related to my fan switch set up? Im going to look at wiring more closely tomorrow.

Thanks guys!
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 01:28 AM
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I'm curious why someone would add a manual switch. Unless it was a bandaid fix for something. The PCM controls the fans by controlling 3 relays. For low speed they are run in series. This way each fan uses 6 volts, for high speed they are run in parallel and each get 12 volts. It would be really hard to figure out what's up with the fans without being there to look at it.

I'm confused by what you're saying the compressor its doing. With the ac on the clutch engages and spins? you should have enough of a charge to get at least a little cold unless there is no refrigerant and either the low pressure switch is bad or has been bypassed which who knows what's been done if the fan wiring has been messed with.

Did you say the ac is charged? How do you know for sure? If you do have a full charge and both the compressor and fans are spinning I can think of three possibilities off the top of my head.

Make sure the fans are blowing air in the right direction. I've seen people wire them backwards and the condenser won't cool enough. Check to see if the condenser is full of dirty or fins are bent blocking air flow.

And third your mode door could be in the wrong position. It is vacuum operated so check for vacuum leaks on the line that runs into the firewall
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 10:34 AM
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Mainly i checked with a Walmart gauge and if turn car on and have somebody turn the **** in the car to a/c you can hear a click from i believe the conpressor clutch and then gauge will read but slowly drop back down to 0. Then wont do anything. I pressed on the bleed valve and it hissed so im pretty sure its got refrigerant in it but im kinda clueless with a/c stuff. As far as the fan switch im not sure. And i meant by clutch spining is when car is off i can spin the clutch on the compressor so it doesnt seam to be stuck. Thanks for the fast reply tho! I am going to look over how they wired the fan switch alil later.

Thanks!
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Old Jun 6, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 91christineb4c
Mainly i checked with a Walmart gauge and if turn car on and have somebody turn the **** in the car to a/c you can hear a click from i believe the conpressor clutch and then gauge will read but slowly drop back down to 0. Then wont do anything. I pressed on the bleed valve and it hissed so im pretty sure its got refrigerant in it but im kinda clueless with a/c stuff. As far as the fan switch im not sure. And i meant by clutch spining is when car is off i can spin the clutch on the compressor so it doesnt seam to be stuck. Thanks for the fast reply tho! I am going to look over how they wired the fan switch alil later.

Thanks!
Im not so sure you should be able to spin the compressor quite as easily as you can. When you have the other person turn on the a/c, dont just listen for it, but look at the pulley and make sure the clutch is engaging it. They wont engage unless the pressure switch in the system has sufficient pressure. A small amount of residual refrigerant would create that hissing sound and some pressure on a gauge. When you push on the schrader fittings there should be a loud hiss and a lot of refrigerant coming out. Some liquid and some gaseous. If it is a weak hiss with just a little gaseous refrigerant then it is low. If the fan was not drawing air through the condenser it would cause the discharge pressure to go higher than normal. Im not sure if they have some kind of internal relief valve, but if they do, this would cause it to lift. Hence the sudden rise in pressure, followed by the drop to 0 with the compressor still running. Check fan rotation and be certain that it is charged properly, which is running with the a/c on full blast. The low side should be about 30-50 psi depending on outside air temp.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:00 PM
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Okay cool thanks for replying! I will look into it alittle closer today as well as which way the fans are spinning. I tried looking at the wiring for fans but it was routed very neatly so lose the wires pretty easily just glancing over it. I will have to actually get down and track them.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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your manual radiator fan switch is not affecting your AC operation. It is coincidental.
SLP, the aftermarket company who turned the Camaro into a Camaro SS and the Firebird into the Firehawk or WS6, sold a manual fan switch for like $70 with factory connectors that plugged right in. That is probably what you have. There were other versions of it by other vendors too, or you could make your own it was very simple. The reason for it was being able to control the fans instead of waiting for the engine computer to see coolant temp hit 226F to turn fans on low and 234F for high speed, generally when at the track. the alternative was modifying the temp setting in the engine computer.

for your ac, you need to put a set of gauges and check high and low side pressures. without you knowing AC a variety of things can be happening since it's over 10 years old. the gauge that comes on the can from walmart does not count as "a gauge"
cheapest set of pressure gauges (high and low) i know of are $50 from harborfreight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-man...set-92649.html

you cannot just press the schraeder valve, see refrigerant come out, and conclude the system has the correct amount of refrigerant. It can be severely low and will still do that, and potentially hurt you spraying liquid refrigerant and oil. So don't do that, it is basically pointless and wasting refrigerant, and don't get the oil on your paint. My best guess, and it's a guess at this point based on the odds, is you're low on refrigerant and when the compressor turns on the low side goes below 20 psi tripping the low pressure switch shutting off the compressor.
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Old Jun 7, 2012 | 03:18 PM
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The only problem I have with hooking up a gauge set and not having a way to evac and recharge the system is that you have no way to put the refrigerant that flows into the hoses back into the system. It is a significant amount especially if you hook them up multiple times with the lines on the gauges empty, even more so the longer the hoses are. I'm all for people doing stuff themselves and the electrical side of ac can be diagnosed by a do it yourselfer but anything involving the refrigerant should really be left to a pro with the right equipment.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 08:18 PM
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Hey guys thanks for all the replies and advice. I found the issue tho as one of my lines cracked at the housing and the whole pipe broke off once i put pressure/freon in. Leaked all over the ground under my feet lol. So now the hunt for a new a/c hardline.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 1 FMF
your manual radiator fan switch is not affecting your AC operation. It is coincidental.
SLP, the aftermarket company who turned the Camaro into a Camaro SS and the Firebird into the Firehawk or WS6, sold a manual fan switch for like $70 with factory connectors that plugged right in. That is probably what you have. There were other versions of it by other vendors too, or you could make your own it was very simple. The reason for it was being able to control the fans instead of waiting for the engine computer to see coolant temp hit 226F to turn fans on low and 234F for high speed, generally when at the track. the alternative was modifying the temp setting in the engine computer.

for your ac, you need to put a set of gauges and check high and low side pressures. without you knowing AC a variety of things can be happening since it's over 10 years old. the gauge that comes on the can from walmart does not count as "a gauge"
cheapest set of pressure gauges (high and low) i know of are $50 from harborfreight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-man...set-92649.html

you cannot just press the schraeder valve, see refrigerant come out, and conclude the system has the correct amount of refrigerant. It can be severely low and will still do that, and potentially hurt you spraying liquid refrigerant and oil. So don't do that, it is basically pointless and wasting refrigerant, and don't get the oil on your paint. My best guess, and it's a guess at this point based on the odds, is you're low on refrigerant and when the compressor turns on the low side goes below 20 psi tripping the low pressure switch shutting off the compressor.
While you cannot determine actual charge, you can get a rough idea if it is really really low. Mine was so low recently, I was able to change my schrader core without recovering. Pulled it out and stuck my finger over the fitting and put the new one in. Very little pressure left on it at that point. Barely had any come out. Had to use an entire large can or A/C pro. And those are big cans. OP has it figured out though. Glad to hear it.
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