Abs in op light
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Abs in op light Need some advice on ABS IN OP LIGHT along with the Service Vehicle, and BRAKE light.
About a month ago My friend and I installed a Hurst line lock system on my WS6. Everything went smooth with installation. We bled all the brakes after and thought we were in the clear.
When I started the car 3 lights came on. First, the ABS IN OP light in the bottom left, Second, the service vehicle light, and Third the BRAKE light.
I thought that the brakes weren't bled correctly so we bled them again.
It brakes fine, yet there is some soft pedal feel. The brakes still work really well yet the lights are on and are becoming very annoying. I read a similar thread describing a rear sensor in the two rear brakes causing the lights. Checked them and they are fine.
Any thoughts?
About a month ago My friend and I installed a Hurst line lock system on my WS6. Everything went smooth with installation. We bled all the brakes after and thought we were in the clear.
When I started the car 3 lights came on. First, the ABS IN OP light in the bottom left, Second, the service vehicle light, and Third the BRAKE light.
I thought that the brakes weren't bled correctly so we bled them again.
It brakes fine, yet there is some soft pedal feel. The brakes still work really well yet the lights are on and are becoming very annoying. I read a similar thread describing a rear sensor in the two rear brakes causing the lights. Checked them and they are fine.
Any thoughts?
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
From: IL
With all the cars on here with big rear tires there must be a fix - they cant all be running around lit up like a christmas tree or with bulbs unplugged lol
Are you certain that the line-lock isnt wired backwards. This could possibly cause the solenoid to stay closed all the time with the switch off and the "fine braking with soft pedal" you are experiencing could be only your rear brakes stopping you. If the solenoid is shut, it wont allow pressure to get to the front brake portion of your ABS module. This would definitely kick on some lights. Just something to check.
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Run equal sized tires all around. It would look stupid but it would prevent the car from reading 2 different speed signals and kicking the traction and/or ABS lights. Might be able to fix it with tuning. What part of Maine are you from.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: georgetown tx
have you checked the master cylinder? allot of times when the fluid is low like from changing a line the fluid sensor will get stuck down and all it takes is a couple taps with a wrench or screw driver to get it to float again. oooooor maybe its the flux capacitor or the headlight fluid or the tuning or the tires or the transmission or the windshield angle is wrong or the hood latch is upside down or the fuel level is too high or the cam is too big or the u joints are over greased ect....
If you are running different sized tires front to back than thats your culprit. The EBCM is reading 2 different wheel speeds and disabling your ABS. Same thing on my car been that way for years. The only fix is to run the same size tires and if need be get a new EBCM or have yours rebuilt. Module Masters rebuilds them for like 160 bucks and comes with a 1 year warranty. I was looking into it but didnt want to change tires. No it cannot be tuned out.
can you make the lights go off? I would prefer my parking brake light to still function but I don't see that happening? Since my abs is deactivated with the tires how do I get the lights off?
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Houston
My ABS light stayed on in the dash until I replaced my spoiler mounted 3rd brake light, which had a few burned out LEDs. I also have the ABS button on the console to turn on or off, but it didn't work, or didn't seem to matter because the light ABS OFF was always on. As soon as I changed the 3rd brake light, the light went off and I can turn it on or off by the button again. Seems crazy though I know.
