I have a 2001 Camaro with a standard transmission....went to shut it off and the key will not rotate back to the "OFF" position. It is firmly stuck "ON".

I can stop the car by putting it in gear and letting the clutch out until it dies, but then I have to disconnect the battery as I cannot turn the key back and remove it.

Most of the posts I've seen regarding a stuck key involve the automatic transmission.

Does anyone know of an easy fix for this dilemma? I've been disconnecting the battery and locking the car but it's a PITA to have to keep doing this.

Any help would really be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

a friend went through something similar. He ended up replacing the column.

m6 also.

 

If the key is bad or worn, this can happen. If you wiggle the key really good, it should turn back for you. Then you can try another key.

If you don't have another key, you can have a dealer punch a new one for you. They can measure the code off the old or look it up, if they have to. (That's an additional charge.) If you get a new key, don't let them grind it. Ask specifically for them to get out their punch and do it that way - you'll get a much better key most likely. If they don't have a punch, I always go to another dealer.

 

Same exact thing happened to me. the lock cylinder is bad. Just order a new one from the stealership. NOT THE ONES FROM AUTOZONE FOR $15! It's a big ole PITA to get into that steering column. Might as well do it once, right. I went ahead and swapped out the ignition switch too. Mine was going bad.. As in, i'd turn the key from "run" to "acc" and the engine would keep running (intermittently).

You'll have to get a key blank from the dealership as well. You give them your vin and they look up what number resister you need. The new lock cylinder will come with an already cut key (w/o a resister) that's sole purpose is for cutting the blank with the resister. Just saying, I've heard of people getting upset that it won't start with the included key (dur).

The plugging and unplugging the battery to drive there really confused my ECU. Wouldn't idle for crap until I cycled the key a time or two after it was fixed.

 

Its more common that the key wears out, which it is designed to do. (The key is softer than the internals of the lock.) A spring in the lock cylinder may have gone bad, but that is very rare.

If you purchased a new cylinder, it would have come with a new key, which could have been the issue all along.

 

Did you read my post?

Like I said. I JUST went through this same EXACT thing. I'm sure he's tried wiggling it. ha! How would it wear out and cause it to stick in the lock cylinder?? Never heard of a "key wearing out" like that. But seriously, the ignition lock cylinder has all sorts of moving parts to wear out.
The new cylinder came with a key, but it's a completely different one (of course). That key's sole purpose to exist is to cut the blank with the resister that matches your ECU. The issue is the lock cylinder. I still have the bad one and the old key is still stuck in it. ha!
Just before my key got stuck it was getting harder and harder to use. i tried my other key that came with the car. It was no different. Same exact issue. Then one day, pulled up to work and it was just stuck in there. Pliers, lube etc. that key was NOT budging. I would have bent/broken the handle before moving that thing.

I think you may be using your keys wrong if they're wearing out...

 

I agree it is the cylinder, in may case the contacts that read the pats pellet in the key were the cause, one had broken off...I was able to get my key out eventually, after removing the cylinder....

 

Yes. In the 14 years I've had my car, this has happened to me twice and all I've had to do is replace the key. BTW - recognizing the issue early is critical to the inexpensive way out of this.

The cylinder may very well need to be removed in order to fix the problem, but why would anyone skip the possible free solution before burning time and money to replace the cylinder??? An extra 5 minutes wiggling may be all that is needed to turn the cylinder back and get the key out.

IMO - giving advice to go off and spend time and money before trying the quick easy fix to the problem isn't good advice.


Its not rocket science. There are 6 moving parts. One inner cylinder and 5 spring loaded wafers. Its uncommon for any of those moving parts to wear out in any lock.

I recall the problem here (from the last time I took apart one of these cylinders) is with the captive key feature of the lock. The key needs to have the wafters properly aligned in order to turn the cylinder back to the position where the key can be removed. If the key is worn, the wafters don't align. Wigling the key is sometimes enough to get the parts to align for a split second so the key can turn back.


If you bought the car used, this is also common. Often the keys are both worn or both may have been copies of an earlier worn key. I always keep one unused and punched key for all my locks and copy off of that one and then use the copies for day to day use.


If you take it to a locksmith, they should be able to fix it and leave you with a spare.


As in all locks, the pins or wafers are made of harder metal than the key. (The key is less expensive to replace than the lock.) That way, the key wears down over time instead of both the lock and the key. Pull any key out of your pocket and you'll see the valleys are worn and all of the sharp points have rounded over for wear.

 

DON'T BUY ANYTHING YET!
Once you get the key out spray some WD-40 in there and that should take care of it. I've had it happen on my own car. Cut a key for $70 and had the same problem. Used WD and its been fine for 5 years with either key. I work at a used car superstore and we see this problem mid-late 90's GM cars almost weekly. Trust me try WD-40 before you waste your cash.

 

Graphite or dry silicone would be better if the wafers are sticking. The only thing WD-40 is good for on a car is loosening rusted bolts and cleaning gum off of tires. It dissolves all the other beneficial greases and lubricants on the car. The last thing you want is that stuff seeping through the cylinder and in to the column.