SS is sluggish need help please!!
Tr6 plugs
Fuel Filter
Remove AIR and EGR
Seafoam
Lucas Fuel Treatment
Both upstream O2 sensors
Now everything has been detuned as far as AIR,EGR and rear O2's, but the car feels the same after all of the above! Also we threw it up on the lift and noticed that the previous owner put in a flowmaster muffler in place of stock and also removed only the drivers side CAT!!!?? After scanning we pulled #1 and #7 plugs, #1 looks fine however #7 looks lean, white as a ghost! Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
I would suggest a compression test followed by a leak down test. Then I start looking at intake gaskets and possibly valve lift. Might have a worn cam etc. Partially blocked cats?
Funny story. Years ago, I bought an 85 Dodge Shelby Charger from a buddy of mine. He told me the list of stuff he did to it, and mentioned he put Iridium plugs in it. When I got to the car, I pulled the plugs out, looked at the part number and then looked them up on Advance Auto's website since Iridium plugs just got popular. They were 11 dollars a piece! I looked at the brand/part number on the wires...they were the 8 dollar a set cheapie wires. I put a custom set of MSD wires on it, and put regular copper core plugs in it, and it ran significantly better.
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fueling imbalance then chase that down ASAP. There
seems to be a lot worse problems on #7 and #8 cyls
(whether from air distribution imbalance in the manifold,
or fuel injectors at end positions catching all the silt,
dunno in this case - but have seen the latter on other
cars).
bank-controlled EFI depends on some assumptions, one
being that all the cylinders are acting the same. With
fueling skewed, the O2 sensor feedback has to work with
the average and you get one lean, 3 pig rich to comp it,
and the lean one goes pop someday - after driving your
knock learn factor all the way to low octane table.
You might just pull all the injectors and get some
'01-'02 OEM larger ones pretty cheap, swap the table
and call it good if they're virgins. Or send your stock
ones out for service, but they're no prize to begin
with. Sometimes guys who do injector service will
give you a good deal on refurbed ones they have
lying about, too.
1) verify fuel pump voltage at WOT
2) verify fuel pressure at WOT
3) check grounding
If it still feels off at that point, then it may be a good time to swap injectors and rails and see what it does.
Jimmy,
Have you ever seen O2's look like the posted picture? If so, what were the symptoms/issues? I've never seen O2's look like this.
Can you post a video of the car running?
Have you tried a different MAF? I only ask because I cleaned mine and it got better but when I replaced it I got the full power LS1 feeling back.
Compression check?
Per my last post, we did swap MAF's with no change.
Did a compression test on some of the cylinders and they were within a few psi of each other.
We don't have video, but I have logs showing the specific cylinders showing misfires randomly.
Also checking fuel pressure at idle is useless you need to check it on the road under load at wot. This outs a demand on the pump and anything under 58psi will cause issues. Also have you put its on a Dino just to see what it makes I don't mean to take a stab at you but it may be all in your head
Last edited by Cole Train; Jan 4, 2014 at 07:30 PM.





