Like it says, car is slow to turn over, I turn the key and it goes "womp....womp...womp...womp..womp vroom" and fires up. I noticed when it's not turning over and there's the break in the noise the security light comes on, then when the engine is turning the light is off.. my gut points towards the VATS system, I did the bypass about 2 years ago so what might it be? Dirty ignition cylinder ? I'm thinking about dipping the key in rubbing alcohol and running it thru the cylinder to try to clean it. I've tried 2 different keys and it happens with both. Also sometimes it won't start at all, and I have to just keep trying til it finally turns over, slowly turns over. Thought ?

 

From what I have gathered It is most likely the fuel pressure regulator or your fuel pump. I have the same thing. Next time you try to start the car, try turning the key (without starting) and listen for the fuel pump to prime, turn to key to off and repeat and wait for the pump to prime. Then try to turn it over and it should start right up.

 

I'd first check for a weak battery or living in a cold area.

 

First check your battery as it's the most common and easiest problem to fix. If you have a voltmeter measure the voltage with the car off is should read 12.7-12.9v if it's any lower it's probably time to replace it. I would at the very least drive to an auto store and have them load test the battery while still in the car. Depending on the temperature outside your battery should be in 600-800 CCA range, if lower it might still start but slower. My 1999 Firebird was cranking slower then usual and It tested at 340 CCA, and still started fine, just cranked slower, if it was in colder weather I probably would have been stranded. Also make sure you battery bolts are snug and not corroded, and check your starter wire connections too.

 

There are lot's of other reasons why a battery may read low. Not all batteries with a low voltage are bad.

Load tests are also not 100% reliable.

If the battery voltage is low, the car should be jumped first to check and see how it charges up.

 

the battery is only 2 years old (i believe) however it is awfully cold out. but still that shouldnt mean nothing at all happens. ill check the fuel pump as that makes sense. the load test is worth a shot if that doesnt work. the car is on jack stands ina garage now anyway taking care of some other issues, i just wanted to get some ideas going forward for this one

 

How long has it been since you tried to start the car? Did you try to jump it?

If you don't run the car for 3-6 weeks and its really cold out, the battery will naturally drain down.

 

I'm going to agree with jaxcam02 about the fuel pressure regulator. Mine is bad as does exactly the same thing, sometimes longer to start than other times. I have got pretty good waiting for the pump to prime and turn it over as soon its done. I've taken a fuel pressure tester to the fuel rail and I can see the pressure go up to about 55lbs then the pump turns off it will drop pretty fast until the pump turns back on after I start cranking. Autozone will rent the fuel pressure tester and all you have to do is hook it to the valve on the fuel rail.

 

It's been on jack stands for about a month (don't have the much free time to work on it unfortunately) but I've had it hooked up to a trickle charger the entire time, and it was slow to turn over before I parked it.. I'm familiar with the fuel pressure Guage as I've had to use it in the past, looks like I might be renting that out again

 

I wonder I you could also have ice in your lines?

 

Im betting its the battery, mine did the exact same thing. I replaced my fuel pump last year so I know that didnt cause it.

 

idk about it being the battery.. I drove it 45 minutes last time I had it out and the following day went to crank it and it started, slowly.. moved it in the driveway turned it off, then went to start it again and nothing. turned the key maybe idk 15 20 times (this is going back 2 months so im going off what I remember) and it finally slowly turned over. I would thing the battery would be fully recharged by the alternator driving it for that long the day before.. ice in the lines sounds like a reach but crazier things have happened I guess. either way I wont be digging in to it til this weekend at the earliest so bear with me for a result haha

 

check your ground cable(s)

 

Are they factory battery cables? Have you increased the engine compression ratio?

 

Agreed...

 

Just to help out members looking for a solution to this issue in the future, I believe the biggest problem I had was actually corrosion on the battery cables. Underneath the boot is where 90 percent of it would be. For some reason my car gets a lot of it, usually on the positive terminal, can't see it without pulling the cable off the battery and the boot back but it's there. It might be a poorer quality metal the bolt and washer I have using in there that causes it, not really sure