Is there a write up on remove/replace for the steering rack and pinion assembly?
Is there a write up on remove/replace for the steering rack and pinion assembly? I tried a search, but didn't see anything.
I have a replacement rack and pinion en route, and wanted to read up on the remove/replace procedure before I start working on it.
I have a replacement rack and pinion en route, and wanted to read up on the remove/replace procedure before I start working on it.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
There is a sticky somewhere. I wrote something up when I did mine. See post #7.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-write-up.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-write-up.html
for the driver's side bolt holding the rack the easiest way is undo the nut enough to fit a sawzall blade in there and cut the bolt. Otherwise you have to raise the engine so you can pull that bolt up and out without the oil pan being in the way. What you can do now is remove the passenger side bolt and take that to match up a replacement. sorry i forget what size it is. Then when reinstalling just put the bolts in from the bottom, and the nuts on the top.
before removing the steering shaft from the rack, take a piece of rope and tie off your steering wheel so it cannot rotate, so without a doubt you know where center is, so when reinstalling the steering shaft the steering wheel will be centered and the rack will be centered = no problems. if you over rotate your steering wheel then you'll break wires in there, and with the steering shaft disconnected the steering wheel can rotate very easily.
before removing the steering shaft from the rack, take a piece of rope and tie off your steering wheel so it cannot rotate, so without a doubt you know where center is, so when reinstalling the steering shaft the steering wheel will be centered and the rack will be centered = no problems. if you over rotate your steering wheel then you'll break wires in there, and with the steering shaft disconnected the steering wheel can rotate very easily.
I really don't like the idea of sawing a bolt off. Plus, my sawsall died a few months ago. Guess I'm taking the car to the mechanic to replace the steering rack. Bonus is it comes with a power steering flush. I guess $275 isn't bad for me not having to spend a weekend under the car.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
While they're at it, if you have not changed out those factory motor mounts, I'd get those done since your mechanic is going to have that engine jacked up..... unless they're going to saw that bolt.
Already have ploy mounts. I thought about going to solid, but the polys are good for now. I might go solid when I get a built motor down the road.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Good deal!I swapped my oil pump a few years ago which lead to a double roller timing chain and motor mounts since I had the engine jacked up/k-member dropped to drop the oil pan. One of those "while I'm there ....." scenarios.
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Same reason I am going to get a bigger fuel pump when my friend does the mini-tub and roll cage... the fuel tank is coming out, so might as well upgrade the fuel pump while we're there.
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