Rocky98

I figured I would post a few pics about the process I went through to replace the axle bearings on my 1998 Formula. Car has about 150k miles (240k kms) and had never serviced the differential other than fluid changes. The symptom the car had was a pronounced tink or tick sound coming from the rear wheel everytime the car was coming to a stop or accelerating from a stop. I would also gear loud moaning and groaning coming from the rear when turning corners. After ruling everything else out, I went ahead and ordered new axle bearings and new 3-channel axle shafts. I got one 10Factory axle shaft off of Amazon for $35 (ordered 2 but they canceled the other). Ordered another Dana SVL shaft off of Rockauto but didn't end up using it.

All in all, not a hard DIY fix. Made some wheel cribs out of 2x4's and used the front k-member to lift the front of the car and placed the jack under the differential to lift the rear (be sure to place jack under the differential housing and not the diff cover). Once the car was in the air, popped off wheels and drained the differential housing (remove bolts use screwdriver to pry off cover). Next I placed the car in neutral and rotated the ujoint until I could see the bolt that held the axle pin in. I used the box end of a 5/16" 6-point wrench and a swift whack from a hammer to break the bolt free. Rotated the ujoint again so I could gently tap the axle pin free.

Next I pushed the axle in and used a magnet to pull out the c-clip and then removed the shaft. My driver's side shaft had significant pitting. My passenger side looked ok and I opted to reuse it vs using the Dana SVL shaft (didn't care for the look of the SVL shaft).

Used a proper seal puller (Lisle 56750) to pop off the seal. I had an internal 3-jaw puller and slide hammer that I tried to use to remove the bearing. It ended up partially destroying the bearing so I went and got the "T head" style puller that did the trick to get the bearing out. Installation was the reverse using an old bearing to tap the new bearing in and a seal installer to tap the seal in.

I had also purchased an axle pinion seal and was going to attempt to replace the seal but opted to do it at the shop after reading too many mixed opinions on the right way of doing it. A dealership had told me years ago that my pinion seal was leaking and after seeing a huge spray pattern of oil around the underside of the car, I was convinced it was leaking. Turns out the pinion seal was fine and that all the fluid was actually ATF from my tranny that was leaking badly. Shop replaced the pinion seal anyways using the count thread method but whatever.

Car running fine now and fixed the tranny leaks (pan gasket). No more noises or creaks when turning. With the right tools, it wasn't too bad.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Excellent - thanks! Nice job with that cribbing, too!

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Jackstands work as good and way quicker. Only way Id build those is if i was on gravel, but you look like you have a nice slab to work on.

Rocky98

You are correct, but I've never felt comfortable working under a car with only jackstands holding it up. Though that probably has a lot to do with the jack stands I have on hand. Which ones do you use and would you recommend them?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I use 6 tons, I admit i would NOT like walmart 3 ton stands, nah I'd pass on that. 6 tons are bigger and much more secure in my opinion.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-...nds-62393.html

joecar

+1 I use four 6-ton jackstands... not only does it feel safe, but gives me more height (prevents feeling claustrophobic).

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yeah when you get more serious about repairs and upgrades the height alone of the 6 tons is mandatory.

bleepster

iTrader: (2)

regardless of the jack stand brand used - they always freak me out. I wish they made the bases wider. but thats just me. I still use them, but nervous as heck. I like the cradle method as well.