'01 WS6 A/C issue
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
'01 WS6 A/C issue
Hello All,
I been having a little issue with me A/C in my 2001 T/A WS6. The cold air is never a problem. What happens is after about 80-90 minutes the Air barley blows out of the vents. It is still cold, but very weak flow. I can turn the system to max and you hear the blower running, just nothing out the vents. I am guessing 1 of 2 things, 1 Condenser, 2 blower motor freeze, if that's a thing..
This problem came up last September, I picked up a A/C Pro Accucool A/C System Recharge Kit. The pressure was on the low side of green, I filled it up a bit and stop thinking about it, Oct-Apr is Vert weather.
Any thoughts?
I been having a little issue with me A/C in my 2001 T/A WS6. The cold air is never a problem. What happens is after about 80-90 minutes the Air barley blows out of the vents. It is still cold, but very weak flow. I can turn the system to max and you hear the blower running, just nothing out the vents. I am guessing 1 of 2 things, 1 Condenser, 2 blower motor freeze, if that's a thing..
This problem came up last September, I picked up a A/C Pro Accucool A/C System Recharge Kit. The pressure was on the low side of green, I filled it up a bit and stop thinking about it, Oct-Apr is Vert weather.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by MikadoWu; 03-20-2018 at 06:42 PM.
#2
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Sounds like you are losing vac and that is used to control the vents. The line comes off the back of the intake an goes to (guessing this is similar to the Camaro) a check valve on the evap case and that splits it to the reservoir tank under the battery and to the inside of the car so it can move the door inside. Check those lines for any damage and if it looks good replace the check valve.
#3
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Sounds like you are losing vac and that is used to control the vents. The line comes off the back of the intake an goes to (guessing this is similar to the Camaro) a check valve on the evap case and that splits it to the reservoir tank under the battery and to the inside of the car so it can move the door inside. Check those lines for any damage and if it looks good replace the check valve.
Thank you for the information. I will be looking into your advice.
I forgot to add, If I turn the unit off for 10 minutes while still driving, it will start working again for another 10-20 minutes.
Last edited by MikadoWu; 03-20-2018 at 07:15 AM.
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Thanks...
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I've never seen a car evap freeze over, but I guess it's not impossible if the right conditions are there. You want to set your pressures up at 1500 to 2000 rpm when you check or add freon to the system. This will bring your high up to a more normal pressure and your low side down. If you set it up at idle you will end up not filling with enough freon. The target pressure depends on outside temps. Open both doors, set the A/C on high with fresh air, rpm up and set the low side based on outside temps. Right now it's 70 here, so 35-40. You can google a pressure chart. Setting the pressure correctly could fix the issue as low pressure are colder and would help set up the evap freezing.
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#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Have you pulled the blower motor out? I was having a similar issue. Except mine was very diminished air flow out of the vents. I found that since the car has no air filter, leaves get into the blower motor. As the blower fan spins the leaves get flung to to the inner walls of the fan and effectively block the air flow. Just an idea you can easily check by taking out the fan and examining it.
#9
Very common problem when someone adds coolant at a idle. When the engine is at 2k rpm the pressures drop on the low side and the evap will freeze over. At least check it.